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I actually bought a IONA yesterday. Even though after reading the last couple pages of that thread you linked.
Basically its good for everything it was intended for EXCEPT Naomi. They are still working on it, but seems like there is still alot of work left to get it right.

Are there any other similar options?
 
There is also this which I found recently:
https://tucsonlogic.com

I have one and only played around briefly so far, as my Naomi hasn't been working stable lately in general. From what I've seen tho, it seems to perform as advertised in standalone mode, which is to support digital controls for two players. Wiring is done via "standard" 20-pin port, so if you have a Brook-style wiring harness that should set you up nicely to connect directly to an arcade stick/control panel of your choice.

I was initially apprehensive but can confirm that cvs2 (notoriously picky when it comes to IO device compatibility) and mvc2 both recognize this device without posting a system error. I need to find time to mess around further but so far this is promising as a replacement for a JAMMA standard JVS IO. Curious also to see how well it performs with other JVS systems besides Naomi.
 
Thank you all for the advice. So I'm totally willing to ditch this cheap thing and get something good, but honestly, I'm not that tech-savvy and a lot of this is going wayyyyy over my head, so maybe if someone has a build list or something that they think might work with my situation.

So I like the idea of the HAS, but I'm not really looking to have an open power supply that could shock me or even making my own power cable to use it.

I'm only planning to play MVS and CPS2 at this point.

Also, I don't have anything that can get a SCART signal to any of my TVs and I'm not really ready to get into the OSSC world just yet. So ideally I would like something that can output to a more consumer-level input like component cables.

I know this makes me super a low-level casual, but any recommendation that would work within my " babies first Supergun" limitations would be super helpful .
 
Thank you all for the advice. So I'm totally willing to ditch this cheap thing and get something good, but honestly, I'm not that tech-savvy and a lot of this is going wayyyyy over my head, so maybe if someone has a build list or something that they think might work with my situation.

So I like the idea of the HAS, but I'm not really looking to have an open power supply that could shock me or even making my own power cable to use it.

Also, I don't have anything that can get a SCART signal to any of my TVs and I'm not really ready to get into the OSSC world just yet. So ideally I would like something that can output to a more consumer-level input like component cables.

I know this makes me super a low-level casual, but any recommendation that would work within my " babies first Supergun" limitations would be super helpful .
Get a HAS and get an RGB to Component converter and plug right into your TV. That's how I use my HAS on my CRTs, I only use the OSSC for my HDTVs.

https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/rgb2comp

The open power thing is easy and can cured with this:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ver-assembly-w-voltmeter-custom-cables.23195/

It's NOT going to get easier than this, so if this is too much, you'll need to look at a MiSTer, a Retro Pi, or MAME. Maybe an Analoge Pocket?
 
Thank you all for the advice. So I'm totally willing to ditch this cheap thing and get something good, but honestly, I'm not that tech-savvy and a lot of this is going wayyyyy over my head, so maybe if someone has a build list or something that they think might work with my situation.

So I like the idea of the HAS, but I'm not really looking to have an open power supply that could shock me or even making my own power cable to use it.

I'm only planning to play MVS and CPS2 at this point.

Also, I don't have anything that can get a SCART signal to any of my TVs and I'm not really ready to get into the OSSC world just yet. So ideally I would like something that can output to a more consumer-level input like component cables.

I know this makes me super a low-level casual, but any recommendation that would work within my " babies first Supergun" limitations would be super helpful .

If you're up for a project, you could actually make an S-Video/Composite Encoder yourself. RGB encoders were used in a lot of game consoles from the 90s, and are suitable for our application. I had used the Sony CXA1645 found in some PS1's and Genesis' and bought a premade kit from a guy in Russia. Unfortunately with current events you can't actually buy it from him anymore, but the schematic didn't differ all that much from the example one found in the datasheet here:
https://gamesx.com/rgbadd/cxa1645.pdf

1645's are readily available from ebay or you can salvage one from a broken Genesis or PS1, and with a bit a perfboard and passive components, you should get a decent encoder that gives good S-Video.
 
There is also this which I found recently:
https://tucsonlogic.com

I have one and only played around briefly so far, as my Naomi hasn't been working stable lately in general. From what I've seen tho, it seems to perform as advertised in standalone mode, which is to support digital controls for two players. Wiring is done via "standard" 20-pin port, so if you have a Brook-style wiring harness that should set you up nicely to connect directly to an arcade stick/control panel of your choice.

I was initially apprehensive but can confirm that cvs2 (notoriously picky when it comes to IO device compatibility) and mvc2 both recognize this device without posting a system error. I need to find time to mess around further but so far this is promising as a replacement for a JAMMA standard JVS IO. Curious also to see how well it performs with other JVS systems besides Naomi.
Im primarily using this setup for CvS2, so i would love to hear you findings.
keep us posted please
 
Hi everyone, thank you all so much for your advice on the supergun options, I have been a bit distracted but I'm guna to start getting my setup ordered very soon.
As a lot of you suggest the HAS, I'm looking to go that route. While I was figuring out what parts I needed I came across this more expensive but really clean PSU and wanted to see if you guys knew anything about it, I like that its all black and incased well it seeeeeeems and would work for a lot of things possibly.

https://www.axunworks.com/product-p669351.html?variant=5828348


After digging around that site I also found this mini supergun and wonder how it stacks up if paired with a real PSU - just out of curiosity
https://www.axunworks.com/product-p669501.html?variant=4512958

I also found this, I'm not 100% sure but it seems like a supergun and a PSU in one?? - I'm super interested to see what you guys think about this
https://www.axunworks.com/product-p125502.html


again, I'm prob going HAS but I'm just curious
 
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I can vouch for the Axunworks CBOX Supergun, as I'm sure many other people can. Been my daily driver for about half a year now. Took a while to arrive, but was more than worth it. Incredible build quality and has handled everything without a hitch so far.
 
I have both. The HAS is my go to for anything JAMMA, due to issues with voltages on the CBOX.

I use the Axunworks solely for JVS nowadays.
 
I have both. The HAS is my go to for anything JAMMA, due to issues with voltages on the CBOX.

I use the Axunworks solely for JVS nowadays.
so far I only own CPS2 and MVS boards , is that something you would not run on your cbox?
 
I have both. The HAS is my go to for anything JAMMA, due to issues with voltages on the CBOX.

I use the Axunworks solely for JVS nowadays.
What is the issue with the voltage? Is it the 12V being out of spec? The amps should be able to tolerate +/- 3V without issue from what I understand but perhaps someone with a more technical background can confirm?
 
Maybe I misread your post in the middle of the thread, but if you're in need of the parts to build a minigun, I have all the parts brand new and I'm just never going to do the project. Lemme know, if he happy to sell it for a little less than buying it all yourself from digikey just to know I got something from it and it'll help someone else!

Like everyone else I can vouch for real-life differences in superguns that are practical and not just theoretical. I don't know of a good cheaper option than the HAS/minigun that s worth getting , and I tried to research the same subject too like 2 years ago
 
Maybe I misread your post in the middle of the thread, but if you're in need of the parts to build a minigun, I have all the parts brand new and I'm just never going to do the project. Lemme know, if he happy to sell it for a little less than buying it all yourself from digikey just to know I got something from it and it'll help someone else!

Like everyone else I can vouch for real-life differences in superguns that are practical and not just theoretical. I don't know of a good cheaper option than the HAS/minigun that s worth getting , and I tried to research the same subject too like 2 years ago
sorry , my bad, what I'm looking to do is get a supergun of some kind, but I'm not really able to build one on my own. i don't know much about this stuff and i don't really have the bandwidth to take on a project like that
 
Get a HAS and get an RGB to Component converter and plug right into your TV. That's how I use my HAS on my CRTs, I only use the OSSC for my HDTVs.

https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/rgb2comp

The open power thing is easy and can cured with this:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ver-assembly-w-voltmeter-custom-cables.23195/

It's NOT going to get easier than this, so if this is too much, you'll need to look at a MiSTer, a Retro Pi, or MAME. Maybe an Analoge Pocket?

Man, that 3D printed cover is cool and all, but for $55 I'm good with the old ghetto tape method lol

IMG_3391.jpg


Also, I find that volt meters on the power supply side are useless, since there's typically a lot of voltage drop by the time it reaches the actual PCB itself. The voltmeter needs to be on the end of the harness that plugs into the PCB, like RGB's JAMMA extension cable.
 
Man, that 3D printed cover is cool and all, but for $55 I'm good with the old ghetto tape method lol

IMG_3391.jpg


Also, I find that volt meters on the power supply side are useless, since there's typically a lot of voltage drop by the time it reaches the actual PCB itself. The voltmeter needs to be on the end of the harness that plugs into the PCB, like RGB's JAMMA extension cable.
oh I actually ended up getting his JAMMA extension cable so had more options on how i could set this stuff up in my space
 
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