Raph_friend
Grand Master
- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
Cyothevile
Student
Hello.
I have thought to port our friend Raph's MCU + firmware to this super gun and totally remove the DB15. Only have USB ports. Basically PCB redesign. So the "USB2DB15" is integrated.
I would like to hear community thoughts if there is such a demand
I have thought to port our friend Raph's MCU + firmware to this super gun and totally remove the DB15. Only have USB ports. Basically PCB redesign. So the "USB2DB15" is integrated.
I would like to hear community thoughts if there is such a demand
I love this idea, would be great to have some modern interface options too.
The Winchester supergun may have some helpful ideas if you decide to https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/the-winchester-jamma-supergun.17385/#post-278900
Is there demand for it? Not sure, but it would be wicked cool
Cyothevile
Student
I have some EDA experience albeit I just started university. So by no means I'm not professional.
I'm also not dumb. I've done EDA stuff on the side for almost 2 years.
I'll look at source for both and make it "mass production resistant". I don't want to name a country but I would be fucking infuriated it appears on aliexpress for some dollar chaser.
I'm also not dumb. I've done EDA stuff on the side for almost 2 years.
I'll look at source for both and make it "mass production resistant". I don't want to name a country but I would be fucking infuriated it appears on aliexpress for some dollar chaser.
Sounds really interesting! And I’d love to know more about discouraging mass production from Aliexpress.
For whatever reason the Minigun has not been cloned to death
Cyothevile
Student
Well, look at current USB2DB15.
Does that seem like you can make 500 of them easily? Not really. Hand assembly and trace cut is specifically why. Also many clone company don't test.
They assemble and sell. They don't test. They don't care. Many people that are hand assembling these gizmos generally TEST. Unless you like untested PCB.
Now putting SMD and through hole components on both sides really makes it harder, albeit not impossible, for many factories to just do it.
Having SMD stuff on a single side for example or through hole only on one side is like leaving door open to retro hoard and telling your neighborhood to not go into your house while you're on vacation.
Does that seem like you can make 500 of them easily? Not really. Hand assembly and trace cut is specifically why. Also many clone company don't test.
They assemble and sell. They don't test. They don't care. Many people that are hand assembling these gizmos generally TEST. Unless you like untested PCB.
Now putting SMD and through hole components on both sides really makes it harder, albeit not impossible, for many factories to just do it.
Having SMD stuff on a single side for example or through hole only on one side is like leaving door open to retro hoard and telling your neighborhood to not go into your house while you're on vacation.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
I honestly didn't know about this supergun, interesting project, but what about the compatibility, it's easy to add new devices? Why there's so low acceptance here?
I learned a lot from this, thankyou! Everything I make is a labor of love, Sometimes I spend 5 minutes on a single SMD resistor making sure it is perfect, so these kinds of considerations are all new to me. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge!
I would like to thank you for designing this Frank (and everyone else that's helped along in this project and thread). I've just finished soldering mine and I'm super happy with it. Now I just need a power supply a video cable and my 40 year long dream of arcade games at home will be a reality.
Will the 3P4P of IGS 1 and 2 be universal
hello @Elfoam I can help with a video cable and a power cable if you need (with the end on it to connect to the minigun). PM me! I have all but run out of minigun PCB's (except for 9 pin mini din ones) and I am pondering over having more PCBs printed and continuing the build/selling of these great boards to continue Franks legacy (kind of). I am so grateful for all he has done.
Incase you were deciding over a power supply, Meanwell RT-85a or RT-125A work great, also cheapo "arcade" power supplies (never used but are fine) which sport 5v, 12v, -5v and GND are suitable (so long as there are some good ampers available on the 5v rail). I much prefer higher-quality Taiwanese Meanwell products.
Hey, thanks for the offer for that stuff. Just an update on where I'm at now.
I managed to find that connector with wires on Aliexpress so it's on the way and some parts to build an 8 pin video cable. It was mistake building the 8 pin unit for me. The parts are on the way but looking back it would have been smarter to build the 9 pin and just get an off the shelf 9 pin Sega cable.
I just have to wait a few weeks for the parts now, for the PSU I do have a cheap one one somewhere.. in my garage that a bought a couple years ago when I first decided I'll build an arcade machine "one day", not sure if it's a -5 volts unit but I think I'll find a place to order the Meanwell PSU. I've also ordered the 9 pin PCBs from JLCPCB and all the parts to build the 9 pin are already here from digi-key, a sega 9 pin cable is on the way too. I have bought 2 Neo Geo motherboards and a PGM so those will be the start of my arcade adventures, Previously I've been using Nintendo Wiis and PIs with Scart hats to my CRTs so this is my first adventures with real hardware. I only just learnt about this MISTercade, I've been meaning to buy myself a Mister for... 4 years and never got around to it.. But I will have to do that also now once I can get one in stock. I'm programming all 3 Cave PGM eproms.. very slowly 512k at a time.. and hoping I can get the fluffy PCBs for those soon. I spent most of my childhood in the arcades so I have irrational nostalgia for these things.. Like most people on here I guess.
Oh I forgot I do have quite a few AT power supplies since I have a big collection of old PCs so I could use one of those.
sounds like me !
AT PSU might work not sure if it has -5v either, but you wont need -5v for many boards anyway. Early ATX PSU have -5v, but new ATX PSU do not. Be careful with AT PSU, the power switch wiring is highly loaded with amps, an old friend of mine zapped himself silly with one of those.
I wish i'd messaged you sooner I could have just posted you a 9 pin mini din PCB, I have many spare (in white).
goodluck with the nostalgia mission
, if i can be of any assistance (since i am local and have built many Minigun) just PM me -- happy to help a member.Ah yes, I think I got the 8 pin board from your ebay listing, thanks for that it was great to be able to get one locally and fast, I built it almost as soon as it arrived, big late night soldering session, I didn't look at the rest of your shop till after I built it but I eventually saw you had a nice 8 pin to scart cable, I very nearly ordered one but in the end my tightness got the better of me so I'll build one from a old VGA cable for now, this is probably going to be a poor decision but I do that often... I used to work at an Network / PC building company in the 90s and have learnt the lesson about AT power supply switches the hard way back then
. I've been slowly teaching myself to draw PCBs so I hope to have something useful to contribute in the future. I should order a couple more PGM boards and maybe an atomiswave, that will probably be the sensible limit for me on real hardware. As much as I like the old times I can't see myself with huge expensive golden age PCBs all over the place. Most of my time and money in the last decade has been spent on old home computers but in the end I only love those because as I kid I wanted the arcade games at home. Luckily these days access to the real thing is much better one way or another.
Hey guys I soldered up my minigun and it seems to work perfectly, but it is way to bright on my framemeister mini it looks all washed out. I have a photo of it playing mortal kombat 3 but it is the same in all the games I have tried. It is not possible to get the picture right with the settings available in the framemeister or using the color pots on the minigun. I have probably got something wrong any ideas?
Attachments
Raph_friend
Grand Master
This white part on PSU is 3D printed?
Is it the minidin8 or 9 version. If its minidin9, maybe you are using a cheap megadrive2 cable missing the 75ohm internal resistors?
Its a mini 8, its a good quality cable but it has no resistors. I was thinking thats what it looks like but the board has resistors built in on the one I assembled. I wonder if I put them on wrong or got the wrong value. The white thing is just a 3d printed cover to go over the live terminals and make it safer to flop around the desk haha.
