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as mentioned before. i wish for Stereo amped out sollution. because Stereo out amped with volume Control ----> New astro City or any cab with two Speakers connected directly = super Stereo Sound out of the box!!
 
Jamma is natively Mono. Introducing stereo is asking for headaches. Sure Neo Geo outputs stereo over Jamma and a few other games do it too, but yeah, nah.

Also “stereo” for games that aren’t in stereo is just plain stupidity (just like that PGM stereo mod)
 
CPS1.5 in September can always use the RCA stereo with line out. Unless the edges are programmable best to keep the JAMMA standard as it is...
 
Jamma is natively Mono. Introducing stereo is asking for headaches. Sure Neo Geo outputs stereo over Jamma and a few other games do it too, but yeah, nah.

Also “stereo” for games that aren’t in stereo is just plain stupidity (just like that PGM stereo mod)
mister Outputs Stereo no Problem. amped through a nvs 4000 psu no Problem. and also with antonios jamma Adapter the Stereo works. amped direct to the Speakers. neo geo games Benefit from Stereo. Sound much better and some really have Stereo effects the Pop up.
the mister Outputs Stereo anyway. when connected to a tv for example.

and all the consoles have Stereo. megadrive , snes…..
 
and i am not speaking about Stereo Signal at the jamma Edge.! it has the be separate of Course.
 
I think the point here is that Jamma is mono, so you will not get stereo on the Jamma (at least in a standard way)

what you can always do is connect the mister audio directly to the cab amp right? Why do you need to do that through Jamma?
 
Just take the RCA output from the MiSTer and plug that in your cab, the same way you would with CPS-2/3, etc.
 
I know it's not a mister, but it should be the same. I'm running a Pi2Jamma in my MVS cab.

I ordered a TDA7297 2x15W 12V digital audio amplifier from eBay, plugged the headphone jack of the pi into it and wired the output of the amp into the Big Red Adapter board (CN3). I took the power from the CN2 connector and moved the jumpers J1, J2 and J3 into the upper position. Problem solved!

103955383_10207308992039199_8476560887704287351_o.jpg


Audio amplifier:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Jamma-2-Terminal-Adapter-Arcade-Gegen-Anschlusse-Retroelectronik-Abdeckung/293294219334?hash=item4449b2a046:g:PPMAAOSwLGpdet1S

You can also use an DIY Jamma Adapter board @Frank_fjs did ;)
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?threads/jamma-fingerboards.7042/
 

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I think the point here is that Jamma is mono, so you will not get stereo on the Jamma (at least in a standard way)

what you can always do is connect the mister audio directly to the cab amp right? Why do you need to do that through Jamma?
@deibit nobody said that.


and i am not speaking about Stereo Signal at the jamma Edge.! it has the be separate of Course.
read. thanks. end.
 
Line level stereo will be available in 3 formats: RCA, 3.5mm, and mini-TOSLINK. I don't have room for a stereo amplifier and it's easy enough to add one for the cabinets that support it.
 
A few more details about the JAMMA project (now named MiSTercade - thanks to Artemio for the suggestion):

The main board will have everything needed for JAMMA + JVS video + JVS audio
I've just finished the first version of a hat that has:
  • Nintendo Unisystem edge
  • JVS controls, and JVS power header
  • Custom cabinet link mode that extends video, line-level stereo audio, and controls via HDMI cable to a second cabinet (will require a simple JAMMA finger board w/ audio amp)
The features are a bit random but I can't fit JVS power and controls on the main board, and I want to make as few hats as possible.

I should have the main (JAMMA) boards in 1-2 weeks and have testers lined up.
 
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Just a short update on the project just for people who are getting into it now:

TLDR; beats any software emulator (i9 or not) hands down because 0 jitter and nearly 0 lag*, comparable to Analogue with regards to emulation for the console cores. However not all cores (computers) are easy to run (specially when the base hardware is not easy to run, like DOS core needs extended memory setup on your HDD just like the real HW etc). Most computers were not plug and play like consoles, you need to do as much research in running the computer cores on MiSTer as you'd have to for the original computer.

1. MiSTer needs setup, incase of doubts, ask people who have experience using it - a lot of default options are not the best option - it is what it is.
2. MiSTer is more about cores for the moment, the menu is minimalistic at the moment, no Hyperspin. Helps to keep the system clean.
3. It is 3 years old with 80% of cores around 1 year old, its still not a mature project. That said its better than comparable software emulators in terms of gameplay any day.
4. Don't expect each cores to be perfect. Just like MAME, MiSTer has different devs with different work schedules. Cores that arent 100% accurate YET doesnt mean MiSTer as a project is a failure / core will remain bad forever.
5. Just because its FPGA doesnt mean devs can get the core correct the first attempt. Any reverse engineering can have mistakes EVEN if you have the schematics in front of you. Humans. Feedback loop helps to refine the cores.

Note regarding arcade cores: I personally value the multis very highly and will always hold onto them since they are very economical. For single boards not so much.

Popular cores ranked based on maturity - can replace your original HW:

1. As accurate as it can get really:
A. NES
B. Megadrive / Megadrive CD
B. SNES
D. PC Engine / PC Engine CD
E. Most CPS0 games

Maybe 95% accurate but you might not feel any difference if you never had the hardware - also miles ahead of best software emu because of smooth scrolling and no lag* - can replace your original HW:
A. MSX - you need to know how to setup MSX or get one of the HDD images with preloaded games.
B. Amiga 500 /1200 - RTG planned - you need to know how to setup Amiga or get one of the HDD images with preloaded games.
C. ZX Spectrum
D. ao486 - you need to setup extended memory for a lot of games to work like in the old days.
E. Atari ST: - you need to know how to setup Atari ST or get one of the HDD images with preloaded games.

90% accurate cores - you want the HW if you are an enthusiast.
A. Neogeo - Speed fine, a few graphic glitches - use Darksoft set.
B. CPS 1 - 12mhz is slow at the moment, remember its 4 months old core.

Beta cores - these are in active development:
A. x68000 - A few games crash and YM2151 is not implemented correctly yet. However, the game that run (80%)are comparable to the real x68000 - no jittering like any of the software emulators. Scaler not implemented.
B. PC88 - Nearly finished core, a couple of games crash, rest all fine, again, no jittering and no lag*, feels like the real PC88.

Alpha Cores:
A. Cave - lacks sound and crashes, its 1 month old, and in active development.

Broken cores due to lack of information - doesnt mean it will forever be broken though:
A. Bionic Commando

Noteworthy cores:
Ghost and Goblins screen jitters - reported that original PCB had the same screen jitters.

Join @Raph_friend's discord FPGA channel if you want tech or general help :D

*Use CRT and SNAC/Fast 100usb polling controller.
 
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Thanks for the write up Suverman. This is a great writeup to not set unrealistic expectations.


Can i ask one thing... about the Ghosts n Goblins jitters.. do you mean the screen flashes? Or something else, as in actual jittering?
If you played horizontal scrolling games on MAME (groovymame even) or any other software emu / devices, have you noticed a periodical jitter (CRT or not)? Its never as smooth as the real hw? No screen flash tho. That specific core has that periodical jitter. It was flagged up, and it was decided that the real board did the same thing. If anyone has the real board and can prove otherwise it would be useful. Early Capcom PCB games were not the most refined tbh.
 
@Murray thanks for the link, afaik there is no such flash, I will share the forum page with Jotego (the creator for the core) and ask him what he thinks about it.
 
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