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My pre-order has been shipped \o/ Thank you very much for the walkthrough @ShootTheCore, your explainations were super helpful going over all the hardware, options, and setup.

@djsheep For the VS addon, do you think I'd be able to connect 2x2p NAC's for 4p... say Dungeons and Dragons? Or would it be limited to 1p per for some reason? I'd definitely pick a VS connector up for 4p games if I can run it off 2 cabinets every once in awhile. SSFII - The Tournament Battle would be pretty cool too if it worked hmmm...
 
@Kagaden -- Yep. That's a perfect usage of it and how I intend to use mine :)

The easiest way to explain how it works is this -- Imagine you had 4 x USB sticks plugged into a regular MiSTer... you just pick up whichever "controller" you want to assign to each set of cabinet controls.

eg. you would use P1+2 on one cab, P3+P4 on another... or you could link up 4 x cabs and use one player on each cab. Or you could link three cabs, two players on one, and the others on the other two. It's very versatile and endless fun. You can also have light gun games on multiple screens, etc.

It will be amazing once the Konami cores come out for instance...

I wonder if grego2d will work on the Tournament Battle? I really hope he does that! Hope this answers your question.
 
@Kagaden -- Yep. That's a perfect usage of it and how I intend to use mine :)

The easiest way to explain how it works is this -- Imagine you had 4 x USB sticks plugged into a regular MiSTer... you just pick up whichever "controller" you want to assign to each set of cabinet controls.

eg. you would use P1+2 on one cab, P3+P4 on another... or you could link up 4 x cabs and use one player on each cab. Or you could link three cabs, two players on one, and the others on the other two. It's very versatile and endless fun. You can also have light gun games on multiple screens, etc.

It will be amazing once the Konami cores come out for instance...

I wonder if grego2d will work on the Tournament Battle? I really hope he does that! Hope this answers your question.
Definitely in for 1... maybe 2 :) Thanks for the explaination DJSheep!
 
I've been testing the release candidate Mistercade, been pretty problem free. Honestly wasn't hard to set up, the most 'work' was just learning the Mister side of things, getting my SD card formatted and everything downloaded etc.

The two things that I ran into were really problems on my end, but just to document:

1) The final beta board uses an HDMI cable as a connector for something that might not even be in the release board, but I did find it mattered which cable I used. Apparently there are 14 and 19 pin versions of HDMI cables? That might have been the problem. Easy swap. And maybe not even something people need to think about at launch.

2) Everything runs off the 12v of your power supply, the board converts to 5v for the Mister. I tested in two cabs, in one everything was fine. In another I was getting low 12v and some crashes on more demanding cores (like Cave). I recapped the power supply and haven't had an issue since.

Your PSU is probably fine! I think I'm the only tester who ran into this issue. If you're at all unsure and it's old never hurts to do a recap ahead of time. But I wouldn't worry about it. Just noting in case someone else sees similar behavior.
I'm having a similar issue with the Mistercade. When I run it on my Astro City, I have no issues but when I run in on my Capcom Q25, then colors and brightness are off and whenever I try to load a game the Mister resets back to the menus screen.

Mainly got the mister to run in my Q25 so I'm pretty bummed tbh.
 
but when I run in on my Capcom Q25, then colors and brightness are off and whenever I try to load a game the Mister resets back to the menus screen.

That definitely sounds like a power supply problem. Has your Q25’s power supply been recapped?
 
I'm having a similar issue with the Mistercade. When I run it on my Astro City, I have no issues but when I run in on my Capcom Q25, then colors and brightness are off and whenever I try to load a game the Mister resets back to the menus screen.

Mainly got the mister to run in my Q25 so I'm pretty bummed tbh.
This sounds worse than my problem, I didn't have color/brightness issues, and I could load some games, but the more demanding cores would crash. I'm assuming your PSU is struggling more with the 12v than mine was.

Definitely need some readings off it so we can see what's up.

Mainly got the mister to run in my Q25 so I'm pretty bummed tbh.
Don't be bummed, we'll get you up and running. That Q25 is an old cab, needing to recap the power supply to start is not surprising or a big deal.

Do you own a multimeter? I'm not far from La Habra, we'll get you sorted one way or another.
 
This sounds worse than my problem, I didn't have color/brightness issues, and I could load some games, but the more demanding cores would crash. I'm assuming your PSU is struggling more with the 12v than mine was.

Definitely need some readings off it so we can see what's up.


Don't be bummed, we'll get you up and running. That Q25 is an old cab, needing to recap the power supply to start is not surprising or a big deal.

Do you own a multimeter? I'm not far from La Habra, we'll get you sorted one way or another.
Yeah I own a multimeter. My buddy said he recapped the PSU... I actually swapped the old busted PSU with the one he recapped and it did look recapped but then again looks can be deceiving.

I appreciate the help and advice! I'll take some readings when I get home and try to upload some pics of the monitor/color/brightness issue.
 
Yeah I own a multimeter. My buddy said he recapped the PSU... I actually swapped the old busted PSU with the one he recapped and it did look recapped but then again looks can be deceiving.

I appreciate the help and advice! I'll take some readings when I get home and try to upload some pics of the monitor/color/brightness issue.
Recap is always a great place to start, it's not a magic bullet. Worst case scenario you can just put in a new switching power supply. They're not expensive. But let's see what your readings look like first.
 
I'm having an issue with mine, my fan isn't coming on. Do I need to switch the jumpers to 5v from the preset 3.3v? I'm using the fan it came with.
 
Well heck, no wonder it won't turn on. I'm missing the jumper on the 3.3v/5v post. How do I go about getting one??
 
Check random old hard drives and computer parts for one (if you have them around). You could temporarily use a jumper from your STV multi if you have that too. If you’re really stuck you could also bridge the pins with a wire.

Many users run their DE-10 Nano without a fan, and the data sheet claims the operating temps should be safe without one. It’s just an extra layer of protection really.
 
Thanks for the replys, it's one of those simple things where I answered my own question after asking it. I've looked for it, wasn't anywhere. I'm all good for now. Ended up borrowing one from a jamma to chamma edge connector I had lying around. This thing gets real warm quick so as a safety measure I'd definitely feel better running the fan.
 
Recap is always a great place to start, it's not a magic bullet. Worst case scenario you can just put in a new switching power supply. They're not expensive. But let's see what your readings look like first.
Alright so my voltages look good. 5v give or take .1 or .2 and same with the 12v. Pretty normal so I'm almost certain it's not the power supply (but I could be wrong).

I'm thinking it might be a monitor issue. I've attached some pics. The main thing is that the whites "flicker" as in they get bright as heck then back to normal then bright as heck then back to normal really quickly.

Also, I don't think the games are actually resetting... It seems like the video signal just gets lost from the mistercade to the monitor after being on for more than like 4/5 minutes.

Finally, I hear a high pitched whine when I plug in the mistercade to my q25.

On a positive note, the q works perfectly fine when I plug up any original hardware cps2 game afterward. Also, the mistercade works perfectly on my AstrobCity (See Wonder Boy pic).

Sorry for the long post and any advice is appreciated!
 

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Also, I don't think the games are actually resetting... It seems like the video signal just gets lost from the mistercade to the monitor after being on for more than like 4/5 minutes.
Do you still get sound when that happens?

When I was having reset issues it was literally resetting, if you watched the 12v it would drop to 0 briefly and the core would reboot.
 
Do you still get sound when that happens?

When I was having reset issues it was literally resetting, if you watched the 12v it would drop to 0 briefly and the core would reboot.
Ahhh!!! I actually get no sound on my Q! I got lazy and just tested the voltage the the mister are unplugged. I'll check again.

As a last resort power test, I was thinking about snipping the 12v to the JAMMA edge (the harness is already hacked) and plugging up the mistercade with the de10 provided power supply.

Thoughts advice?
 
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