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MiSTerAddons MiSTercade - MiSTer for JAMMA cabinets

Update: the Mistercade is POWER HUNGRY. Swapped the stock Q25 power supply with a brand new one and it looks like everything is running normally!

I didn't get to play it for a long time but I'll test it tomorrow to make sure that it doesn't reset.

Color problem is gone. Rolling visual noise is gone.

5v = 4.9
12v = 11.4

Seems like there is a connection between the 5v and 12v. The strength of the 5v line seems to affect the strength of the 12v line.

*I had to turn up the 5v line way up.
 

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LearyCastro said:
Update: the Mistercade is POWER HUNGRY. Swapped the stock Q25 power supply with a brand new one and it looks like everything is running normally!

I didn't get to play it for a long time but I'll test it tomorrow to make sure that it doesn't reset.

Color problem is gone. Rolling visual noise is gone.

5v = 4.9
12v = 11.4

Seems like there is a connection between the 5v and 12v. The strength of the 5v line seems to affect the strength of the 12v line.

*I had to turn up the 5v line way up.
Click to expand...
Interesting! The 5V line is only loaded to draw 50mA. Either way glad you solved the problem!
 
misteraddons said:
Look at the rom extension from the load prompt. Probably incorrect file extension.
Click to expand...
So the rom files permitted would be the ones listed correct?
misteraddons said:
Look at the rom extension from the load prompt. Probably incorrect file extension.
Click to expand...
Sure enough 100% user error. For whatever stupid reason I put the Roms in the TGFX16-CD folder 📂 🤭 all is good. Mistercade is awesome 👌!!!
 
Hello guys, Mistercade just arrived, did some testing today and I'm having a *little* problem with one one my cabs.

First, some context:

1)I have a new astrocity and a namco cyberlead, both have nanao ms9, I recapped both cabs a couple of month ago (psu, amplifier, nanao) with high quality caps.

2)My cyberlead came with jamma wiring (no jvs, so It was replaced at some point)

3)They work exactly the same with my neo geo and cps 2 boards.

4)One is tate, the other one yoko.

Mistercade worked 100% right out of the box with my NAC, oh my god, played dodonpachi for the first time and..and... OMG, so excited.

But with the Cyberlead it was another story, mister turned on ok, BUT the colors were very saturated, and it made the image blurry, it looked like the signals are very strong, like when you consolize a neo geo or build a supergun without resistors in the R G B lines.

I adjusted (lowered) the R G B gains and britghness using the nanao ms9 remote, and that improved * A LOT*, I would say that the image now is kinda 90% of where I want it, and I don't want to move the cut offs.

As I've said, the other pcbs and neo geo work virtually the same in both cabs, so I dunno why the difference using the mistercade.

I'm loving the mistercade, and in fact I'm planing to buy another one (so I don't have to change it from one cab to the other), but I'm thinking of a possible workaround.....

Could that little problem be fixed with a jamma extender and some resistor (or pots) in the rgb lines? what do you think?
 
serge85 said:
Hello guys, Mistercade just arrived, did some testing today and I'm having a *little* problem with one one my cabs.

First, some context:

1)I have a new astrocity and a namco cyberlead, both have nanao ms9, I recapped both cabs a couple of month ago (psu, amplifier, nanao) with high quality caps.

2)My cyberlead came with jamma wiring (no jvs, so It was replaced at some point)

3)They work exactly the same with my neo geo and cps 2 boards.

4)One is tate, the other one yoko.

Mistercade worked 100% right out of the box with my NAC, oh my god, played dodonpachi for the first time and..and... OMG, so excited.

But with the Cyberlead it was another story, mister turned on ok, BUT the colors were very saturated, and it made the image blurry, it looked like the signals are very strong, like when you consolize a neo geo or build a supergun without resistors in the R G B lines.

I adjusted (lowered) the R G B gains and britghness using the nanao ms9 remote, and that improved * A LOT*, I would say that the image now is kinda 90% of where I want it, and I don't want to move the cut offs.

As I've said, the other pcbs and neo geo work virtually the same in both cabs, so I dunno why the difference using the mistercade.

I'm loving the mistercade, and in fact I'm planing to buy another one (so I don't have to change it from one cab to the other), but I'm thinking of a possible workaround.....

Could that little problem be fixed with a jamma extender and some resistor (or pots) in the rgb lines? what do you think?
Click to expand...
Might be a power issue. A couple of us were having color issues similar to yours and it turned out to be power supply issues. Check your voltages.
 
serge85 said:
Hello guys, Mistercade just arrived, did some testing today and I'm having a *little* problem with one one my cabs.

First, some context:

1)I have a new astrocity and a namco cyberlead, both have nanao ms9, I recapped both cabs a couple of month ago (psu, amplifier, nanao) with high quality caps.

2)My cyberlead came with jamma wiring (no jvs, so It was replaced at some point)

3)They work exactly the same with my neo geo and cps 2 boards.

4)One is tate, the other one yoko.

Mistercade worked 100% right out of the box with my NAC, oh my god, played dodonpachi for the first time and..and... OMG, so excited.

But with the Cyberlead it was another story, mister turned on ok, BUT the colors were very saturated, and it made the image blurry, it looked like the signals are very strong, like when you consolize a neo geo or build a supergun without resistors in the R G B lines.

I adjusted (lowered) the R G B gains and britghness using the nanao ms9 remote, and that improved * A LOT*, I would say that the image now is kinda 90% of where I want it, and I don't want to move the cut offs.

As I've said, the other pcbs and neo geo work virtually the same in both cabs, so I dunno why the difference using the mistercade.

I'm loving the mistercade, and in fact I'm planing to buy another one (so I don't have to change it from one cab to the other), but I'm thinking of a possible workaround.....

Could that little problem be fixed with a jamma extender and some resistor (or pots) in the rgb lines? what do you think?
Click to expand...

AxunWorks sells an RGB brightness compensation pass through that does what you describe:
https://m.axunworks.com/product-p669521.html

Definitely check your voltages first and/or try another PSU if you have one handy. MiSTercade wants clean power.
 
Well, I checked the voltages:

New Astro City (works great) 5V: 5.06, 12v: 11.05.

Cyberlead (colors saturated, had to lower the gains, now it looks very good but not perfect) 5V: 5.19, 12v: 11.26.

Sadly I don't have a spare PSU, could I test with the de10nano adapter (and disconecting the 12v from jamma of course)?

Any PSU recomendations?
 
M
serge85 said:
Hello guys, Mistercade just arrived, did some testing today and I'm having a *little* problem with one one my cabs.

First, some context:

1)I have a new astrocity and a namco cyberlead, both have nanao ms9, I recapped both cabs a couple of month ago (psu, amplifier, nanao) with high quality caps.

2)My cyberlead came with jamma wiring (no jvs, so It was replaced at some point)

3)They work exactly the same with my neo geo and cps 2 boards.

4)One is tate, the other one yoko.

Mistercade worked 100% right out of the box with my NAC, oh my god, played dodonpachi for the first time and..and... OMG, so excited.

But with the Cyberlead it was another story, mister turned on ok, BUT the colors were very saturated, and it made the image blurry, it looked like the signals are very strong, like when you consolize a neo geo or build a supergun without resistors in the R G B lines.

I adjusted (lowered) the R G B gains and britghness using the nanao ms9 remote, and that improved * A LOT*, I would say that the image now is kinda 90% of where I want it, and I don't want to move the cut offs.

As I've said, the other pcbs and neo geo work virtually the same in both cabs, so I dunno why the difference using the mistercade.

I'm loving the mistercade, and in fact I'm planing to buy another one (so I don't have to change it from one cab to the other), but I'm thinking of a possible workaround.....

Could that little problem be fixed with a jamma extender and some resistor (or pots) in the rgb lines? what do you think?
Click to expand...
MiSTercade outputs ~3.3V RGB which is nearly identical to NeoGeo MV1C, so I'm not entirely sure why it would look washed out by comparison.
 
I just received my MISTercade and I'm having a little bit of trouble getting the display to work correctly. I’ve been reading thru this thread and I’m wondering if I’m experiencing similar color washout issues previously reported…

I have reviewed the MISTercade online manual at: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Ujk ... QNcuI/edit#

I replaced my 60-1 board with my MISTercade in a generic Namco style arcade cabinet (JAMMA). My monitor is connected via VGA and not thru the JAMMA.

I'm using the MISTer-31kHz-TATE_CW ini on my MISTercade setup and I'm getting a lot of color washout on my display.

Games like 1942 are completely washed out in brightness/saturation and I can't even make out the F12 overlay menu while in-core.
I moved that MISTer-31kHz-TATE_CW .ini file to the root of the SD card and have renamed it to “mister.ini” as instructed. My arcade monitor is connected to my MISTercade via VGA. I swapped VGA monitors and the problem persisted. The main F12 menu (w/ black/white noise) screen is over saturated in white. Referencing the MISTcade manual online, I ensured that my CSYNC jumper from 75 ohm in on TTL. The various scanline options are barely distinguishable from each other.

NOTE: the 15kHz .ini causes the MISTercade to not even boot the the F12 core selection menu (black screen) so I assumed the 31kHz is the only option.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong? If not here, where should I ask for help? Thanks.
 

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misteraddons said:
M

MiSTercade outputs ~3.3V RGB which is nearly identical to NeoGeo MV1C, so I'm not entirely sure why it would look washed out by comparison.
Click to expand...
Yes, it is weird... initially the colors looked saturated, that's why I had to dial down the rgb pot gains.

Well, in the name of science, I will try 2 things:

1) I will buy a jamma extender and put some pots in the R,G,B, lines.

2)I will buy a new psu and will hack the extender to provide 12V and Ground to the mistercade ( I don't want to hack the original psu wiring that works perfect with other pcbs).

Will post results!

EDIT: @misteraddons, is it viable to power up mistercade with the de10 nano ac adapter? just for testing purposes ( disconnecting the wiring for 12v, 5v,)
 
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serge85 said:
Yes, it is weird... initially the colors looked saturated, that's why I had to dial down the rgb pot gains.

Well, in the name of science, I will try 2 things:

1) I will buy a jamma extender and put some pots in the R,G,B, lines.

2)I will buy a new psu and will hack the extender to provide 12V and Ground to the mistercade ( I don't want to hack the original psu wiring that works perfect with other pcbs).

Will post results!

EDIT: @misteraddons, is it viable to power up mistercade with the de10 nano ac adapter? just for testing purposes ( disconnecting the wiring for 12v, 5v,)
Click to expand...
Yes, you can power via DE10-nano for now - 12V is only used for the audio amp and to generate 5V.
 
BabaYaga326 said:
I just received my MISTercade and I'm having a little bit of trouble getting the display to work correctly. I’ve been reading thru this thread and I’m wondering if I’m experiencing similar color washout issues previously reported…

I have reviewed the MISTercade online manual at: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Ujk ... QNcuI/edit#

I replaced my 60-1 board with my MISTercade in a generic Namco style arcade cabinet (JAMMA). My monitor is connected via VGA and not thru the JAMMA.

I'm using the MISTer-31kHz-TATE_CW ini on my MISTercade setup and I'm getting a lot of color washout on my display.

Games like 1942 are completely washed out in brightness/saturation and I can't even make out the F12 overlay menu while in-core.
I moved that MISTer-31kHz-TATE_CW .ini file to the root of the SD card and have renamed it to “mister.ini” as instructed. My arcade monitor is connected to my MISTercade via VGA. I swapped VGA monitors and the problem persisted. The main F12 menu (w/ black/white noise) screen is over saturated in white. Referencing the MISTcade manual online, I ensured that my CSYNC jumper from 75 ohm in on TTL. The various scanline options are barely distinguishable from each other.

NOTE: the 15kHz .ini causes the MISTercade to not even boot the the F12 core selection menu (black screen) so I assumed the 31kHz is the only option.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong? If not here, where should I ask for help? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Are you using a PC CRT? If so you'll need external attenuation. Read some of the above posts.
 
Hey everybody,

I'd like to press coin+start and have the Cores menu with /_Arcade be the principle menu when the menu button combo is press. Is this a possibility? I did a bit of searching in docs and forums but couldn't find anything.
 
ShootTheCore said:
Nope, I don’t believe that’s possible.
Click to expand...
Correct. I got a response from misterAddons that it isn’t. There is currently a PR on the repo of the mister, though, that introduces the idea of restricting menus. Could be interesting if it gets approved. We shall see
 
Hi Guys, i seem to have no audio coming out of my mistercade - i followed the setup guide, i get a perfect picture and everything is playable but no sound. I checked the volumes and turning to max on mister, the machine itself and in the OSD does nothing. Any ideas?

If i plug my CPS2 board back in it works fine so it doesn't look like it's the cabinet. It's a Sega new astrocity cab. Trying to get audio via jamma like normal.

Edit: Fixed - dip switch setting on mistercade. It looks like the default settings don't quite match the manual, no biggie.
 
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