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MiSTerAddons MiSTercade - MiSTer for JAMMA cabinets

Thanks for the response and suggestions @advans14

(1) I have replaced the edge connector and retraced all leads as some were not jamma standard (this was important to check before plugging in my MiSTer)
(2) 5V grounds are good
(3) AC ground on Power supply is continuous with the power plugs earth ground and also the monitor chassis ground.
(4) I have tested the mistercade on seperate PCB test righ using an arcade LCD monitor. The hum is there but not nearly as bad on LCD as seen on CRT
(5) The OG power supply was a peter chou but had some slight power line noise using my Raiden II PCB so I replaced with "RetroArcade.us 16A Arcade Switching Power Supply, 133 Watt, 110-220V" which fixed it. Nothing seems to affect (worsen or mitigate) the noise observed when the MiSTercade is plugged into the JAMMA.
 
Flain said:
What does "debounce" do exactly? (sorry for the lack of knowledge here).
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Debouncing is when you filter inputs from something, like say a microswitch in a button, to remove excess noise for clean inputs.

It's a really simple concept that my brain is having trouble explaining, I need coffee. But basically electronics can be "noisy"; when you trigger a switch it's not always a clean simple "I was off, but now I'm on!" spike. You might get jitters where a ton of quick on/off signals get sent as the switch closes for instance.

Instead of treating that single button press as a manic turbo button mash debounce cleans it up. A really simple example of a debounce would be to take the first input received, and then ignore all further inputs for x milliseconds afterwards.

This is often done in software, but here he's saying it's integrated into the microcontroller, so a noisy switch shouldn't cause false inputs.
 
misteraddons said:
A few people have so I'm tracking the problem. Give me a few days to investigate :)
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Having the same issue here, except my MP on Player 2 stays pressed continuously unless I press "P1" start or "P2" start then it unfires, super weird.

Only other thing is my coin lever (the switch when coins are dropped through the mech) seems to crash games if pressed too many times.

- Mistercade V1.2
- Jamma Harness
- CPS2 Kick Harness
- Wells Gardner 19" CRT.
 
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Adding debounce to cabinet controls is rare. Only cab ive ever seen it done on from factory is dragons lair.

Most inputs are managed in more modern ways with newer pcbs.
 
stratumorien said:
Thanks for the response and suggestions @advans14

(1) I have replaced the edge connector and retraced all leads as some were not jamma standard (this was important to check before plugging in my MiSTer)
(2) 5V grounds are good
(3) AC ground on Power supply is continuous with the power plugs earth ground and also the monitor chassis ground.
(4) I have tested the mistercade on seperate PCB test righ using an arcade LCD monitor. The hum is there but not nearly as bad on LCD as seen on CRT
(5) The OG power supply was a peter chou but had some slight power line noise using my Raiden II PCB so I replaced with "RetroArcade.us 16A Arcade Switching Power Supply, 133 Watt, 110-220V" which fixed it. Nothing seems to affect (worsen or mitigate) the noise observed when the MiSTercade is plugged into the JAMMA.
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What monitor is it? What profile are you using on the mistercade?
 
stratumorien said:
Thanks for the response and suggestions @advans14

(1) I have replaced the edge connector and retraced all leads as some were not jamma standard (this was important to check before plugging in my MiSTer)
(2) 5V grounds are good
(3) AC ground on Power supply is continuous with the power plugs earth ground and also the monitor chassis ground.
(4) I have tested the mistercade on seperate PCB test righ using an arcade LCD monitor. The hum is there but not nearly as bad on LCD as seen on CRT
(5) The OG power supply was a peter chou but had some slight power line noise using my Raiden II PCB so I replaced with "RetroArcade.us 16A Arcade Switching Power Supply, 133 Watt, 110-220V" which fixed it. Nothing seems to affect (worsen or mitigate) the noise observed when the MiSTercade is plugged into the JAMMA.
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Is your earth ground wire connected from the RetroArcade PSU to the wall outlet? Also, does your monitor chassis have an isolation transformer installed?

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...es/monitor-isolation-transformer-120v-output/
 
ShootTheCore said:
Are you plugging the adapter into the User I/O port? It won't work if plugged into USB.
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Yes. it’s the one in the corner by the port for the volume extension PCB.

I am using one of the remote pcbs with the volume pot etc, but am plugging the PSX adapter straight into the main Mistercade.

I’ve tried removing the extension but same results.
 

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mthngn said:
- connected to usb3 (the blue connector)?
- SNAC activate in the PSX core?
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Yes and yes.

I have not enabled snac anywhere else apart from the PSX core menu under controllers. Have I missed something?

I do have an issue with maybe every 3rd boot the mistercade not accepting my arcade controls but I don’t think it’s related. It’s usually sorted with a power cycle or two.
 
Pooman2084 said:
Yes and yes.

I have not enabled snac anywhere else apart from the PSX core menu under controllers. Have I missed something?

I do have an issue with maybe every 3rd boot the mistercade not accepting my arcade controls but I don’t think it’s related. It’s usually sorted with a power cycle or two.
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Sounds like you've done everything right to me. Perhaps the MiSTercade doesn't support the "Analog IO v6.1 / Digital IO v1.2" that's referred to in the requirements for the adapter?
1697660857015.png


What do you think @misteraddons ?
 
Sky64 said:
Only other thing is my coin lever (the switch when coins are dropped through the mech) seems to crash games if pressed too many times.
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Several original boards crash or display "coin error" if I manipulate the coinlever too fast manually (not when inserting real coins).
So that could be "normal" behavior..
 
ShootTheCore said:
Sounds like you've done everything right to me. Perhaps the MiSTercade doesn't support the "Analog IO v6.1 / Digital IO v1.2" that's referred to in the requirements for the adapter?
1697660857015.png


What do you think @misteraddons ?
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I heard back from @misteraddons

Understandably he can’t cast judgement on another seller’s products so I’ll put it down to experience and return it.

Thanks to everyone for their input.
 
Hi all. I recently got a new Astro city and have the mistercade hooked up. Everything is working great but for some reason, no matter how I input the buttons for cores, player 1 side controls player two and vise versa, anyone have an idea as to what I might be doing wrong? I’m inputting buttons the same way I do w fight sticks for my mister fpga and never have this issue w the other mister. I did test the nac w a pgm as well as a tekken pcb and don’t have the same issue so I know it’s wired correctly.
 
spleef_oner said:
Hi all. I recently got a new Astro city and have the mistercade hooked up. Everything is working great but for some reason, no matter how I input the buttons for cores, player 1 side controls player two and vise versa, anyone have an idea as to what I might be doing wrong? I’m inputting buttons the same way I do w fight sticks for my mister fpga and never have this issue w the other mister. I did test the nac w a pgm as well as a tekken pcb and don’t have the same issue so I know it’s wired correctly.
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Since you asked the same question in Discord, I'll answer the same thing I did there. You can permanently assign the players using MiSTer.ini If you set these lines in your MiSTer.ini it will permanently assign P1 and P2 sides. If you don't do this, when you put in a credit to start a game, it may randomly assign P1 since the coin mech on a candy cabinet is hooked to both P1Coin and P2Coin. I really wish Candy cabinets had 2 coin mechs.

https://github.com/misteraddons/MiS...a57b72/MiSTer INIs/15kHz-YOKO/MiSTer.ini#L177
 
Flain said:
What does "debounce" do exactly? (sorry for the lack of knowledge here).

The problem i have with my mistercades seems to be a lack of being able to keep something pressed without it flicking on and off a bit and only on certain inputs. Eg. holding a direction on the stick stops holding it momentarily, like the input was suddenly turned off then back on.
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I assume you need to clean/replace switches. Every MiSTercade is tested 100% audio, video, and controls prior to shipping. Almost every issue I've seen has been a cabinet issue and not a MiSTercade issue

Sky64 said:
my
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Strange behavior that I didn't see on my end.

I've been fortunate to sell many, many MiSTercades thanks, in part, to the awesome people here!

If you need support for something you purchased, I have a Discord, and a website with a contact form :)
 
misteraddons said:
Since you asked the same question in Discord, I'll answer the same thing I did there. You can permanently assign the players using MiSTer.ini If you set these lines in your MiSTer.ini it will permanently assign P1 and P2 sides. If you don't do this, when you put in a credit to start a game, it may randomly assign P1 since the coin mech on a candy cabinet is hooked to both P1Coin and P2Coin. I really wish Candy cabinets had 2 coin mechs.

https://github.com/misteraddons/MiSTercade-Config/blob/67d8613a8e41f090a60d76dd8070ae4796a57b72/MiSTer INIs/15kHz-YOKO/MiSTer.ini#L177
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Thanks porkchop! Sorry didn’t think of the fact that you are here and there, in my head I was asking two different groups of ppl. Thanks again for the help , I’ll set things in the ini
 
d00mdrew said:
Negative on my end. Just a straight through, uninterrupted, original JAMMA wiring in a NAC. I can’t replicate it every time either and usually a full reboot of the Mister eliminates it for awhile. I just fired it up the other day for a DoDonPachi session and my LEFT and UP inputs were doing it again. I restarted the Mister and it went away for the rest of the session (I maybe played an hour or so).

Could it be an SD card thing? RAM issue? Voltage (I’m getting a hair above 5v flat)? I even considered the JAMMA harness itself as it’s seen better days at this stage in its life, but my PCBs don’t have any issues 🤷‍♂️

Edit - In regards to my controls, I’m using parts less than 6 months old (LS-56 and Sanwa buttons) so there’s no way it’s a lever issue.
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I won't post my testing here(tested various cabinets jamma, chamma and mvs wiring), I'll post my usecase on discord shortly.

Workaround that costs a couple bux more/couple minutes more:
Flick mistercade switch to chamma mode.
Buy a chamma-to-jamma adaptor board with a kickharness header built in or re-wire harness to chamma standard.
That fixed the issue for me.
 
rautz said:
I won't post my testing here(tested various cabinets jamma, chamma and mvs wiring),
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Why post that you're not going to post? It'd be more helpful to the community if you DID post this info, then people can compare with their own testing and see if the results work for everyone/solve a problem, or it just happens to work for you, y'know?
 
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