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FS MP07-IONA-US JVS/USB I/O Board v3.11: Worldwide Sales & Troubleshooting Thread

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Also no joy on being able to update the firmware. Windows 10 'This device cannot start. (Code 10)'.

Edit - plugged it onto USB extension ports on a usb-c to ethernet dongle from China, and it worked. It hates the normal built in USBs though.

OK! Problems with solutions.

1) Naomi does not detect Iona - Iona and Naomi are both known to be good and so are all cables:

I had to upgrade the firmware from 1.35 to 1.42d, even after upgrade it was not detected until I used the new options mode to inactivate the JVS signal adjustment. I do not know if turning this off will cause problems with other hardware. It was perfectly stable after these changes, in both BIOS and Game modes.


2) "This device cannot start. (Code 10)" when trying to install the WinUSB driver.

I did a bunch of testing, it's simply not compatible with some USB ports. It doesn't work on the built in USB-A (3.1) ports on my Lenovo X1 gen 4, but it's fine with a couple of cheap trashy unpowered USB-C hubs/adapters - for example the Unigreen USB-C to Ethernet dongle which has 3x USB-A (3.1) ports. That works perfectly.
 
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@system11 just flashed mine and had a similar experience. Didn't work on my USB3.1 port, did work however on the (also built-in) USB2.0 port of my gaming rig. Couldn't even install the WinUSB driver properly on the USB3.1 port, so that was already a sign it wasn't gonna work.

I'm a bit puzzled though the IONA doesn't come with some pin headers installed and 2 jumpers, just to make life a little easier. The extra cost would be like almost zero.

@djsheep nice quality business card & sticker! :D
 
DOA2 says: this cabinet has no new jamma io board. Too many errors to play. Check this cabinet io system!

@system11 where did you find the new options mode to inactivate the JVS signal adjustment?
 
https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/en

Look at "1.40 and later" flow diagram of button presses. Key note that isn't made entirely clear, the dips are set in the options mode by holding controller buttons down then pressing test to exit, so you must make sure you know what your mapping is before doing it. Agreed that they should just fit the jumper pins, I soldered some in. I think another improvement would be another LED or two for when in settings mode because you have to carefully track where you are to get it right.
 
I tried updating the device again on a more modern PC (Asus B550i motherboard) and I was able to get it to work successfully without a problem using the USB A->USB A cable method. I'm going to guess that the device is just really, really picky about which USB controllers (not peripherals, like the device controller I mean :P) it is compatible with.
 
I just noticed there is a remark about 'some' Naomi being broken by the signal adjustment for Namco being default in the online manual which I hadn't noticed. I wonder what the true ratio is?
 
@system11 I've entered the options config mode, but unsure how to set button 3 to on. I have the USB-C for power, USB A>B cable plugged in the JVS port of the IONA and the other side to the Naomi's USB port & a Xbox 360 controller with a play & charge kit USB cable connected to USB port 1. The Xbox light comes up, but other than that it's unresponsive. With which controller did you set button 3 to ON?

EDIT: tried a PS4 controller as well. I think button 3 should be circle. So I press circle on the PS4 controller and keep it pressed while pressing TEST on the IONA to exit the options config mode right?

EDIT2: the PS4 controller maps fine whereas the X360 one won't. But still can't get the option config set. I give up for now.. :/
 
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Yeah map your buttons first so you know what is definitely mapped to what.

When you get to the options set mode (very carefully follow the 1.4+ operation flow diagram), hold down button 3 and press test. Any button held when test is pressed to exit turns the corresponding dip on. Future revisions definitely need work in this area, if it was my project at this point I'd just install a couple of dip banks to cover the options and the programming shorts. Might be too low on IO pins, I don't know much about the hardware.
 
I think I did everything right but it just won't work. Probably something stupid, but I just don't understand what it is at this point. A dip bank would've been a lot better indeed.
 
Kujako said:
Like with the Wii sensor bar, the GunCon3 sensors just need power. There's no data (like ~%90 sure). That being said, most people seem to just use a USB hub.
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Awesome, thanks for the insight. I would like your post if only i knew how to do it.
 
Guys, how do you get your controllers to sync with the IONA? Tried using an Xbox 360 controller via a play and charge kit and via the receiver, ps3 cabled, ps4 cabled and Wii U cabled, nothing works. I can't find any instructions on connecting these, is there a special way to connect?
 
hernan43 said:
I use a wired XB360 controller and it just works. I don't have to do anything special.
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Okay, that might be it then. I have plenty of X360 controllers, but none of them are wired. I'll have to get one, thnx. Still wonder why PS3/PS4 won't work though as they don't come in wired versions...
 
Kitinota said:
For those of you who have problems with Naomi, I'll tell you about my experience:
It works for me on some bases and not on others, I don't know why, if it's a problem with the filter board or not.
what I recommend is that if you have other Naomi bases, test it with others
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This is my experience until now as well. On my Naomi it works 1 try out of 20 maybe. Tried it at @PascalP the other day and it worked every time for him. Very annoying to say the least. Has this issue been reported yet?
 
fwiw when I tested on Naomi I bypassed the filter board altogether and just used an old cell phone charger to power the adapter. I had prior issues with the Naomi filter board when it came to powering my netboot Pi setup so I haven't been using it anyway.
 
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