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chacal231077

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Hi!

Little throwback to a Stick Hori VLX Premium Xbox 360 version equipped with a PS360+.

The stick works perfectly, just no LED stick and turn on It's a strange reaction ?(

If I disconnect the PCB from the PS360+ and switch to the original Stick configuration, I have the LEDs which are active:thumbup:



HoriRAPVlx.jpg
 

jj1929

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Received my v2 board with USB-C and firmware 1.35 pre-installed. Thanks for the fast delivery and amazing packaging @djsheep!

Finally got round to testing and the Xbox One controller works great with it on the TTX. The Guncon 3 also works well on the Naomi.

I couldn't get Time Crisis 3 to boot with the Guncon 3 but this could just be my Namco 256 being difficult!
 

skate323k137

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I -really- need to get around to updating the firmware on mine, haven't gotten it to work yet but I'm sure if I (re)flash it I'll be good. I hope I have time to get back to my projects involving this soon.
 

parodius

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Received my v2 board with USB-C and firmware 1.35 pre-installed. Thanks for the fast delivery and amazing packaging @djsheep!

Finally got round to testing and the Xbox One controller works great with it on the TTX. The Guncon 3 also works well on the Naomi.

I couldn't get Time Crisis 3 to boot with the Guncon 3 but this could just be my Namco 256 being difficult!
Which games have you been able to use the Guncon 3 with, on the Naomi?
 

djsheep

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Getting quite a few messages to purchase these. I’m going to open orders up for another batch. If you need one, or two, just PM me.
 

retrogrenier

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I just got mine in the mail, but sadly I cannot get it to work on my Naomi 1. I've flashed a couple different firmwares, tried different lengths of USB cable, different controllers. It is using an external 12W PSU. Nothing. The N1 never detects it.

I have an XB360 controller plugged in and it does seem to recognize that. The ring light stays solid on player 1. So I have that going for me.

If I use OpenJVS on the raspberry pi that works so at least I know there is nothing goofy with the JVS port on the machine.

Is there a "best" firmware to be using for the MP07? I've used the latest unstable and the latest stable but again nothing works.

UPDATE

So right after posting this I flashed to 1.41 and used the options mode to set the "Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment" option. You have to go into the options mode and I had to hold the B/red button on the 360 pad while deactivating the options mode. This apparently was all it needed. JVS Test picked it up and I was able to play Ikaruga and Gigawing 2.
Hello, I have same problem,
Noaomi2 and TTx2 "i/o error".
I have update to 1.41 but I realy don't understand how to reach the good "menu"Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment".
1-I've pushed Test&service=the led flash FAST (Layout config mode)
2- push test= Led flash Slow (Rapid-fire config mode)
3-, push test= Led flash Slower (Speed config mode)

But how goes to "⑧ Options config mode (LED - blink)" ?
Thanks
 

jj1929

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As an update, Death Crimson OX seems to work the best with the Guncon 3 out of the Naomi games. This makes sense as the creator of the IONA mentions this on the GitHub page. The calibration is slightly off for Confidential Mission but hopefully this can be improved in a future update.

I managed to update to the latest 1.42 firmware thanks to the excellent guide by @Shin. This update enabled the Guncon to pass the JVS check on boot up for Namco 256 on Vampire Night. Annoyingly the game got stuck on the loading screen so I couldn't test it! This is possibly due to the 2X6 ODE not loading correctly, so this game might also work with the IONA.
 

hernan43

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Hello, I have same problem,
Noaomi2 and TTx2 "i/o error".
I have update to 1.41 but I realy don't understand how to reach the good "menu"Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment".
1-I've pushed Test&service=the led flash FAST (Layout config mode)
2- push test= Led flash Slow (Rapid-fire config mode)
3-, push test= Led flash Slower (Speed config mode)

But how goes to "⑧ Options config mode (LED - blink)" ?
Thanks
I followed the input map for 1.40. I think it is test + service > test > service > test > test.
 

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retrogrenier

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I followed the input map for 1.40. I think it is test + service > test > service > test > test.
Thanks, I've done that and pushed "b red button" on x360 gamepad.
Is there an indication if it's on or off ?
Does this setting remain in memory after shutdown?

But still not working with TTX2 official blazblue
The Iona blue LED stops bliking but it's not working. I've tested two PSU and two USB cable.
 

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hernan43

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I had to hold the button down while hitting the test button again and then it saves the setting. It saved it across power downs so the setting appears to be stored permanently.
 

Cookie

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got the updating part to work partly thanks to @ShootTheCore (thanks man deeply appreciated!) and partly due to using a different pc and holding the service button for the whole precess of plugging both usb cables to the computer, also for some reason I still can't see the device in windows device manager in the first computer I tried, so you might be SOL like I was before and I still don't know why...

Any how, I will try to make a quick tutorial on how to do a FIRST TIME fw update :
(after that you'll only need to bother with the windows device manager and choosing drivers if you use a different computer or windows install, to update the fw of the board)

1) bridge/ use jumpers there :
fw_fig.jpg

fw_fig_v2.jpg


3) on a windows computer open : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/firmware_en in CHROME (make sure you didn't block chrome notification windows service if issue) also,
open Windows Device Manager (right click on the windows flag on the lower left corner by default>Device Manager) (collapse everything in Windows Device Manager if needed to see the bottom of the list)

4) HOLD SERVICE button one the MP07-IONA-US JVS/USB I/O Board

5) plug the micro usb (or type-c if you have the newer model) cable to a usb2.0 or lower port on your computer (alternatively, you can use a beefy enough charger here)

6) KEEP HOLDING SERVICE button

7) plug the JVS port (USB type B) to a usb2.0 or lower port on your computer with a usb cable known to have the data wires not only vcc and gnd)

8 ) IT WORKED ! you can now let go of the service button because you just heard windows notification sounds (I heard a set of 2 I think) that are usual with plugging/unplugging usb stuff

9) in Windows Device Manager, right click on the new unknown device that just popped up, right click, go to the details tab and check that the property of "device instance path" has the same VID/PID as on this picture (if it's not, you are looking a another device inside or outside your computer but plugged in and not working, so something else completely)
2022-03-27 11_33_41-Device Manager.png


10) if your VID/PID matches, hit cancel, and right click again on the same item but choose Update Drivers, then :
  1. In the wizard, select Browse my computer for driver software.
  2. Select Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.
  3. From the list of device classes, select Universal Serial Bus devices.
  4. The wizard displays WinUsb Device. Select it to load the driver. (Hit next)

2022-03-27 11_38_59-Update Drivers - Unknown Device.png


11) open : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/firmware_en in CHROME and scroll all the way down (make sure you didn't block chrome notification widows service if issues)

12) choose the version of the firmware you want to update to and hit "flash".
2022-03-27 11_42_40-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png


13) you should see something like this in the top left corner of your Chrome window Unknown device from WinChipHead
(sorry for the french, running an english install of win10pro, everything should be set in eng...anyhow.)
2022-03-27 11_41_06-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png


14) click on Unknown device from WinChipHead
2022-03-27 11_41_48-toyoshim.github.io tente de se connecter.png

15) hit Connection button, and you device should flash :)
2022-03-27 11_43_32-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png

16) unplug both cables
17) REMOVE THE JUMPERS
18 ) I'M NOT KIDDING, DO IT BEFORE YOU FORGET
19 ) have fun with your updated device! please provide unsupported controller info here : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/report_en (Direct Message him on Twitter with the info reported by the site) it is crucial that we provide Toyoshim with this info to grow what this device can do for us :)

Type-C was a step in the right direction in my book but this needs a small oled screen, 4 buttons, wifi with web interface that can be deactivated if needed to set all this up.

Excellent guide.

Just a note from my experiences. USB2 or USB3 doesn't matter, 5 computers, all of them could detect the device on USB3 or 2, but 4 out of the 5 all gave the "cannot start this device" issue in device manager, nothing i did on any of those pc's could make it start the device, but they all picked it up in device manager. The 1 computer that could actually start the device, was on USB3, a laptop. I was able to flash the firmware from that.
 

retrogrenier

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TTx2 and TTx3 are now working with "Inactivate JVS data signal level adjustment" ,
Naomi2 don't work now. Iona Led never stops blinking.
 

kazuo

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I'm also having the "device cannot start" issue when trying to use the USB A->A cable method. Tried uninstalling & reinstalling numerous times, resetting computer, enable/disable various USB options in the BIOS, it doesn't work on any of my 12 USB ports. I guess I will have to remove the board from the enclosure and just mickey mouse some jumpers to it so I can easily update it in the future. I also noticed that I am getting a device ID that doesn't seem to match what is on GitHub, and it also doesn't match the ones I've seen in this thread:

1649401999095.png


I also got @/buffi's case design printed through Craftcloud! Thanks to @/skate for the reco, printathing was substantially more expensive and the guy answering their support emails is a little condescending. :/ I used a translucent red with 20% infill, I think it came out pretty good. I wanted a different color but I was printing out other stuff and I didn't want to eat the fees to setup and print using multiple colors :P

MP07_enclosure.jpg
 

Cookie

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I'm also having the "device cannot start" issue when trying to use the USB A->A cable method. Tried uninstalling & reinstalling numerous times, resetting computer, enable/disable various USB options in the BIOS, it doesn't work on any of my 12 USB ports. I guess I will have to remove the board from the enclosure and just mickey mouse some jumpers to it so I can easily update it in the future. I also noticed that I am getting a device ID that doesn't seem to match what is on GitHub, and it also doesn't match the ones I've seen in this thread:

1649401999095.png


I also got @/buffi's case design printed through Craftcloud! Thanks to @/skate for the reco, printathing was substantially more expensive and the guy answering their support emails is a little condescending. :/ I used a translucent red with 20% infill, I think it came out pretty good. I wanted a different color but I was printing out other stuff and I didn't want to eat the fees to setup and print using multiple colors :P

MP07_enclosure.jpg

The device ID will be unique, so long as the PID and VID match, you know you have the right device.

I tried a lot, when a board wouldn't work on a particular system nothing i did could get it to not show "device cannot start". I just got lucky that it worked fine on the last computer i had left to try it ons. All on same Windows 10 OS version.

@retrogrenier thanks for sharing this!
 

hernan43

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I was not able to use use the MP07 on a hub. I had to hook it to one of the motherboard USB ports. It was the only way to keep from getting the ”device cannot start” error.
 

levelupgainz

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It seems like this isn't compatible with Virtua strikers 2000 on Naomi. I keep getting no IO error. I tried steps to disable JVS data signal level adjustment but no luck.
 

kazuo

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Striker Ver 2K is just a standard joystick game, right? Might be worth reporting it on GitHub.
 
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