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NAC Splitfire: JAMMA streaming solution

Zepherino said:
I'm glad you got it working.

To answer your earlier question on resolution switching, there's a bank of 4 dip switches near the top left of the Naomi, same side where the VGA port is. The first switch on the left determines 15 or 31khz output.

1683146435762.png


For VGA cables, IIRC pin 9 isn't normally connected to anything. More than likely it's the quality of the cable. I didn't notice before that you're based in the UK, so I'm not sure if this applies to you, but Extron sells a lot of pro grade video equipment and cables, and you can often find them used online for very cheap prices. Otherwise, you can try to figure out what's the most popular UK based pro video manufacturer, and you can probably stumble upon similar deals. Many companies bought massive amounts of analog equipment for many years, and usually dump them after the switch to digital/HD.

If you have any other questions, PM me or start a thread on the Sega section. I feel like we're probably straying a bit far from the topic of this thread now.
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Thanks so much for your time and advice, I really appreciate it, along with anyone else who chipped in.

I've got a splitter arriving today to try. It's a good one, but cab return for free if it doesn't work. I should be good from here, it's just a case of getting a good VGA splitter and perhaps anote cable. I know that if I see 537i, I'm good to go. At first when I saw this, I assumed it was a fault as I was expecting to see 480i/p ;)
 
The splitter worked a treat! I've also pulled the audio directly off the Naomi as it was a bit jank off the Capcom I/O. This gives me the ability to play the cab later at night without speakers on and get perfect sound through headphones next to me :)
 

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I'm having an issue with my new splitfire. I barely got a chance to test it out with the GBS-C and once I sorted out the image issues, things were chugging along nicely. My Jab button was not working and after ruling out my cabinet, I isolated the issue to the splitfire. Upon close inspection I noticed it was missing solder on the player 1 button 1 jamma finger. A quick continuity check with my meter confirmed, I quickly resolved that with some solder and the button worked again. It worked for about 30 minutes and then when I switched hardware to test out the GBS-C with other PCB's I lost sync.

I have isolated it do the Jamma finger on the splitfire for SYNC (P on the solder side) - but it's not missing solder on the actual jamma edge. It seems to be losing continuity somewhere in the circuit. It does not make it to the other side of the PCB. Has anyone ran into a similar issue?
 

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Zepherino said:
I'll be interested to see how well it works. I haven't tried an AliExpress GBS-C and the OLED addition would be nice if it means I don't have to connect my phone to it every time I want to change a setting. Make sure the Wifi works since signal interference was an annoying design flaw of the GBS-C AIO. It looks like the EPS8266 module is pretty far from the video processor on this design, so hopefully that isn't an issue here.
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Got around to trying it and it works just fine on cps2 and cps3 hardware



West said:
@Anselmo Just curious but which model GBS-C are you using?
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I'm using this one:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804918329035.html?channel=twinner
 

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Can anyone offer guidance on building a VGA to SCART cable for the Spitfire, for use with OSSC and Retrotink 5X?

I had a beatup genesis 1 scart cable lying around, so cut the genesis connector (that was the beat up part...it was basically unuseable) and soldered wires to a male VGA head per the below.

All connections are pass-thru, no termination or attenuation. I'm getting heavy color ghosting, and there's no amount of adjustment of the video gain knob that gets it right.

I'm sure there's some termination or something else needed in the cable, but I'm not smart in those ways. :) Any help appreciated.

SCARTVGA
Red151
Red ground136-8 bonded together
Green112
Green Ground96-8 bonded together
Blue73
Blue ground56-8 bonded together
Sync2013
Shield groundmetal housingmetal housing
 
Hi everyone, as a few of you are already aware (thank you!) pre-orders for the next batch of Splitfires are open. The units are currently in production and should be in hand by early Q3. This is the last run we will be doing in 2023.

Unfortunately, due to component costs and a higher-than-expected tariff from the last batch, the price has increased slightly. As much as I hate to do that, it's necessary to keep producing these, so thank you for your understanding.

Pre-orders are live here: https://birdlandarca.de/products/splitfire

Thank you all for your continued support of this amazing product!
 
YesAffinity said:
Can anyone offer guidance on building a VGA to SCART cable for the Spitfire, for use with OSSC and Retrotink 5X?

I had a beatup genesis 1 scart cable lying around, so cut the genesis connector (that was the beat up part...it was basically unuseable) and soldered wires to a male VGA head per the below.

All connections are pass-thru, no termination or attenuation. I'm getting heavy color ghosting, and there's no amount of adjustment of the video gain knob that gets it right.

I'm sure there's some termination or something else needed in the cable, but I'm not smart in those ways. :) Any help appreciated.

SCARTVGA
Red151
Red ground136-8 bonded together
Green112
Green Ground96-8 bonded together
Blue73
Blue ground56-8 bonded together
Sync2013
Shield groundmetal housingmetal housing
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure this was made among other reasons to pair with Retrotink5x, given the native SCART input on that device and lack of included HD15 port. I havent tried this yet with OSSC (I personally just feed the HD15 input from the Splitfire output, thats worked well for me):

https://castlemaniagames.com/products/rondo-products-hd15-2-scart
 
BroadwayJose said:
I'm pretty sure this was made among other reasons to pair with Retrotink5x, given the native SCART input on that device and lack of included HD15 port. I havent tried this yet with OSSC (I personally just feed the HD15 input from the Splitfire output, thats worked well for me):

https://castlemaniagames.com/products/rondo-products-hd15-2-scart
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm aware of that product, but it's out of stock. So, I've been trying different options for making my own SCART cable/connection, all with the same result of oversaturated/bleeding colors and dropped sync, on RT5X, CRT and OSSC SCART input.

Per the Splitfire product page, sync output should be 0.7vpp, which should be good for RT5X/CRT/OSSC SCART input, but should not be good for OSSC's vga input. The OSSC wiki states "RGBHV and RGBS modes require clean TTL-level sync signals". I have no problem with the output from Splitfire direct into OSSC AV3 via standard VGA cable, and as mentioned above, devices that should work fine with a 0.7vpp signal do not like the output.

@opt2not notes earlier on page 33 that he built a cable with success in the same fashion that I have:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/nac-splitfire-jamma-streaming-solution.7200/post-294561

I've tried adding a 470 ohm (and other values) resistor on the sync line, with no better results. I've tried running all connections straight (verified with multimeter continuity testing).

I'm probably missing some simple detail, but really racking my brain on this one.
 
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Just to clarify, the Splitfire's sync output is buffered from a 74HCT-series IC, and should be at typical 5V TTL levels, but has a 470 ohm resistor in series with the sync signal going to pin 13. If the sync signal is not being terminated, like with a typical TTL logic input, the 470 ohm resistor will drop virtually no voltage and thus should be compatible with such an input. On the other hand, if the sync signal is connected to an input with 75-ohm termination - like on a PVM's sync input - the series 470 ohm resistor and the sync input's 75 ohm termination resistor form a voltage divider that comes out to 0.69V, which for all intents and purposes is the desired 0.7V.

I use it connected to an OSSC's VGA input port directly, and from the start that's been the recommended use case.
 
Hi,
Has anyone managed to get a full picture with Splitfire & OBS?
I only managed to get the left half?
Thanks.
 
Slot MVS ->Splitfire -> VGA Cable -> Xcapture-1 -> OBS (last version).
 
Just providing the update that I got a Rondo HD15-2-SCART and it works great with the NAC Splitfire to RT5X. I now have all of my NAC Splitfire use cases covered. Very excited to be able to output arcade boards easily to the RT5X with glorious crt simulation. :)
 

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How I fix the 100% CPU Bug with X-Capture on Windows 10 and 11 :

1-Create file with block-note (Windows).
2-Copy :
Code: 
@echo off
PowerCfg /SETACVALUEINDEX SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_PROCESSOR IDLEDISABLE 000
PowerCfg /SETACTIVE SCHEME_CURRENT
3-Save with the name 100%CPU_Killer.cmd (select ALL FILE in Type when you save the file).

How to use :
When the CPU bugs at 100%, launch 100%CPU_Killer.cmd
 
Hello,
Today I have a problem with my NAC Splitfire, I have no sound by jack.
I have tested the potentiometer :
1-3 : 0 to 600 Ohms
1-2 : 0 to 600 Ohms
2-3 : 0 to 600 Ohms


lll.png




How can I test the jack ?


ll1.png

Now it works... I don't understand.
 
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Its because that is a failure point. Happened to me as well. The solder on top side of board but under pot had failed or a wiper leg has broken
 
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