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I’m not sure if anyone knew this but since the PlayStation 3 can’t do RGB in higher resolutions other than 480p, the arcade system outputs component YPBPR video and the Namco motherboard converts that signal to RGBHV or VGA. I thought it was pretty cool as I plugged in my own component cables through the multi av out port and it worked fine. :D
 
Final update: I got it to work. Took a couple of minutes to update it’s firmware but now it works fine! :) both the VGA and HDMI port work and the both audio ports (optical and Stereo RCA) both work. At the moment since I don’t have a SEGA or Namco JVS board, I’m using my Time Crisis 4 V392 NA-JV PCB to confirm if the JVS port works.
 

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Update: had it running for an hour now and it seems to be completely fine. I guess changing the NEC/Tokin caps “fixed” it. I’ll give you all one final update once I get the dongle and hard drive for the system.
Where is the location of tge Nec/tokin caps , maybe that is tge problem of my 357a , so i can try to replace it
 
Where is the location of tge Nec/tokin caps , maybe that is tge problem of my 357a , so i can try to replace it
The original owner of the system only replaced the caps on the left side underneath the board (the ones under the CELL and RSX chips), I replaced the ones on the right side as well. They were replaced with 470uf 2.5v low ESR tantalum capacitors. If that doesn’t work for you, you can also try to replace the ones near the CELL and RSX chips. It’s not a 100% guaranteed fix and I’m not sure if the SYSCON method would work on these systems.
Edit: (4) 470uf caps = (1) NEC/Tokin cap which is 1200uf. If you were to replace ALL 8 NEC/Tokin capacitors, you will need (32) 470uf capacitors. 330uf should work but I went the 470uf route. There are tons of tutorials about this fix on YouTube, I suggest you look at NSC MODZ YouTube channel as his videos helped me a lot! :) I must warn that removing them is extremely tough and you can mess up, I recommend clipping them from the middle with a small flush cutter and remove the access with your soldering iron, that’s what worked for me.
 

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The original owner of the system only replaced the caps on the left side underneath the board (the ones under the CELL and RSX chips), I replaced the ones on right as well. They were replaced with 470uf 2.5v low ESR tantalum capacitors. If that doesn’t work for you, you can also try to replace the ones near the CELL and RSX chips. It’s not a 100% guaranteed fix and I’m not sure if the SYSCON method would work on these systems.
Edit: (4) 470uf caps = (1) NEC/Tokin cap which is 1200uf. If you were to replace ALL 8 NEC/Tokin capacitors, you will need (32) 470uf capacitors. 330uf should work but I went the 470uf route. There are tons of tutorials about this fix on YouTube, I suggest you look at NSC MODZ YouTube channel as his videos helped me a lot! :) I must warn that removing them is extremely tough and you can mess up, I recommend clipping them from the middle with a small flush cutter and remove the access with your soldering iron, that’s what worked for me.
Thanks for the pointers , I'm gonna send this to an expert and has the right tools for this thanks again Franco
 
Ok, one final question, since the dongle and hard drive I bought has firmware 3.40, is it still possible for me to play regular Tekken 6.0?
 
i thought the FW upgrade was for the 357c ?
Seems that it works with all 357 models. I bought an original drive and dongle (Japanese text) and it updated the system firmware. Is it possible for me to back up the drive in case it craps out on me one day?
 

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Seems that it works with all 357 models. I bought an original drive and dongle (Japanese text) and it updated the system firmware. Is it possible for me to back up the drive in case it craps out on me one day?
Is there anything stopping you making an image of the drive? I don't wanna cross any lines here but those images are available online with the dongle patched out.
 
Is there anything stopping you making an image of the drive? I don't wanna cross any lines here but those images are available online with the dongle patched out.
I haven’t tried it yet as I don’t have a stable Wi-Fi connection to download them. Once I get a new service provider, then I’ll definitely try them out. I was just curious to see if I can backup my own drive without damaging anything.
 
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I originally ordered another 357 just in case if I couldn’t fix the first one I got. It’s a 357c and it was in terrible condition when I got it but it works. It was cheaper too. I took it a part and the amount of dust was outstanding! I got it from “FromJapan.com” if any one was interested. It came with a Gundam game but I might as well pack away the dongle/SSD or sell it to one of you guys for $20. I planning on converting this system to a Tekken Tag Tournament 2 as the 357C is extremely similar to the 369.
 

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Here are some pictures of the 357c PlayStation 3 main board. It’s a PlayStation 3 slim! :D Board model is JTP-001.
(Blurred the serial number just in case!)
 

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I wonder if you can dump the firmware from that and flash to a regular PS3 slim. I might have to buy a E3 flasher. I dare say its already been done even if not publicly disclosed.
 
I wonder if you can dump the firmware from that and flash to a regular PS3 slim. I might have to buy a E3 flasher. I dare say its already been done even if not publicly disclosed.
I would like to attempt to do that all though I have no idea how.
 
It looks like it can be possible as I found some pictures of a 369 main board that has the Blu-ray drive clip soldered on. That piece isn’t present on my 357 A and 357 C. I’ll see if I can find the picture as I found it interesting
 
iirc arcade PS3 firmwares can be rewritten to anything at any time, and frequently happens when changing what game you run in it. I had to deal with this on a severe level with AKB48 recently, it refused to accept any firmware and I pretty much tried them all.
 
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