I’m not sure what my 357 A was before I installed Tekken 6 BL with 3.40 firmware. I’m guessing it was a live monitor as it did take a couple of minutes to update and it’s cosmetically in good condition.
@tiff_lee, looking at the last link, it gives me a lot of hope that retail motherboards can be converted to arcade pcbs. The guy who wrote the post did everything correctly and got a correct error code (let me explain in a moment) when I was able to “revive” my system, I put in a random blank hard drive and I plugged in a DualShock 3 controller as well. I was messing around with the buttons on the controller and when I pressed the home and start buttons, a menu popped up saying if I would like to format the drive or turn the system off. Of course, I formatted the drive and when it was done, I saw a bit of the XMB followed by the same exact error code the guy got: “an error ocurred during the start operation”. That gives me a bit of hope. If we can somehow get in contact with them and test out this theory, that would be awesome! This could be the key to trying to preserve the real arcade hardware until emulation is possible. I’ll make a short video of what I saw to prove it!Actually no need to dump it, after some searching
yet to find any successful examples of it flashed to a consumer console
I did do some voltage test but it all seems to check out, even the regulator on the PS3 board has the correct voltages: 5v and 3.3v. 12v is also fine but I’m not sure if the replacement caps could be drawing too much current which would result in the system shutting down? It doesn’t make sense as when the system does want to work, it would stay on without any issues. Had it on for 2 days straight and no single issue at all, the issues occurred once the system cooled down. Pretty weird. Also, this PSU, the APS-226, is apparently the more reliable PSU for the BC PlayStation 3 fats, well, this thing gets pretty hot lol! One thing I can’t test is the amps. I need a different multi meter/device as mine doesn’t measure amperage.Not sure how hot they should get but the fat PS3 was notorious for being very inefficient, I guess one of the giveaways there is the massive cooling assembly for how much heat the thing creates.
Do you have a power meter or anything so you can at least check how much AC current its drawing? you could do more in depth analysis but you'll have to separate the PSU and fit jumper wires so you can run it externally and then do some current measurements on the DC side.
I’ll check the PSU separately, I might get a replacement PSU just in case and to see if the replacement also heats up. I mean, these PSUs are getting pretty old now and these have been in arcades, most likely the PSU is getting weaker. Weaker/ older power supplies do get hot as they work more excessively.Heating and cooling is going to exacerbate BGA issues for sure.
Just to be clear i'm talking about measuring current not voltages, the board my be drawing the correct current but the PSU may be faulty or whatever drawing excess hence it generating so much heat.
I’ve noticed that the 357C is exactly the same thing as the 369, although with a different usb hub. It should be fine and extremely reliable as this system used the later models of the slim which got rid of the NEC/Tokin caps, replacing them with 470uf 2.5v low ESR tantalum caps.Great to follow your progress! Have a 369 myself with TTT2U that I haven’t booted in a long time… might need to check it out
Interesting little discovery I made, like I said before,since the PlayStation 3 can’t do RGB any higher than 480p, the Namco board converts the component YPBPR video signal to RGBHV or VGA for short. Interestingly enough, when I plug in component cables, I get an image. Not sure what the Namco board isn’t converting the signal to VGA, this seems to be an issue with all the 357C and 369 systems that run Tekken 6 BL, not an issue on the older systems or Tekken Tag Tournament 2. I can confirm that VGA did work with the Gundam game it came with.The VGA port doesn’t display any video