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Reached out via the website.

EDIT: We got it sorted out. 3.3V was WAY off. I had it tuned for a NetDIMM setup, and never even thought it might be the issue. Thanks again, @invzim !
 
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All the devices I sell with firmware are (IMHO) very well protected. Things without firmware are of course a little trickier to protect against cloning. What should I do when people making similar products operating in low-cost countries and on this forum place an order for an unprotected device?

1 - call them out
2 - refuse to sell
3 - Treat them like normal customers
4 - Plagiarism is the Sincerest Form of Flattery
5 - other
 
It wouldn’t be hard to have a friend be a proxy, you’d never know if your device is going to a competitor. I would expect that to happen, so in a vacuum I’d say it’s worth the effort to add security to anything.

But if a competitor is just placing an order directly, I’d probably talk to them directly in writing, and in private. If the intent is competitive, you could offer to license your design and save them the trouble of reverse engineering it. Sell them the rights to produce and market wherever they are, if you’re not serving that geography.

If they buy one and you offered a design license, and they refused and copy it anyway, now I feel you’re right to call them out. I’d expect competitors look at each other’s designs and try to improve though, not straight copy. That’s everyday business.

i am not a creator, so this advice comes with the caveat that I don’t have direct experience with this issue.
 
Perhaps a simple question which was answered before, but how to handle PCB’s that send out stereo sound on pin 10/L and use common ground for audio ground?
Or better make a breakout fingerboard between the PCB and Jammafier to tap the audio directly from there via a line level converter and not run it through the Jammafier?
 
Perhaps a simple question which was answered before, but how to handle PCB’s that send out stereo sound on pin 10/L and use common ground for audio ground?
Or better make a breakout fingerboard between the PCB and Jammafier to tap the audio directly from there via a line level converter and not run it through the Jammafier?
Short answer - the Jammafier does not attenuate/mix stereo signals.

Longer answer - the Jammafier use Speaker+ (pin 10) by default, but latest rev (1.7) has a switch so you can use Speaker - (Pin L) instead for games that only has audio on Speaker -. The signal that is not attenuated is left unconnected.

It should be safe to tap both Speaker + / Speaker - from the Jammafier and feed this to an external attenuator.
 
Thanks! I’ll tap it somewhere and send it via a line level converter to my NNC.

But if I would accidentally send stereo to the Jammafier, nothing would damage right? Worst case scenario I get no audio at all from the RCA’s?
 
Thanks! I’ll tap it somewhere and send it via a line level converter to my NNC.

But if I would accidentally send stereo to the Jammafier, nothing would damage right? Worst case scenario I get no audio at all from the RCA’s?
If there is a stereo signal 10 and L, the Jammafier will use only one of them and the other will be left as unconnected - so should be perfectly safe.

The only issue I can think of with tapping and sending to an external attenuator is that either Left or Right would have a 1K resistance to GND on the Jammafier, possibly resulting in lower volume on one channel.
 
As you may have noticed, I haven't had tri-sync helpers in stock for a while and I likely won't restock.

There is however a new Jammafier 2.0 in the works, that has the tri-sync helper stuff embedded, making for a more compact solution for Tri-sync users.

2022-05-11 Jammafier 2 proto.jpg


You can switch between untouched video or Tri-Sync output with a switch on the PCB, and select either C or HV sync on the OLED menu.

No other changes, and the firmware will be the same for both versions.

If you don't need a tri-sync helper, now is a good time to pick up the current revision of the Jammafier, as the price of the new one will be more expensive.
 
Packed and ready to go, except there is a bit of a FedEx SNAFU so I can't ship anything.

I've had a good experience with the faceless borg that is FedEx for over 3 years, but they suddenly decided to double my rates from August - I had a lawyer look at it and write them a letter, but they only came back with some BS and pointed out that they could cancel the contract for whatever reason regardless. I suspect this has something to do with their TNT merger.

My website charges shipping at cost, so every time an order comes in, it asks FedEx for a quote, they broke this one too this weekend I think giving me non-discounted prices, so had to shut it down to not scare away potential customers.

I've signed up with DHL, but my webstore for some reason doesn't seem to support DHL anymore.

At times like this I'm thankful that this is just a hobby thing, but would be nice to get it sorted soon - I'll keep you posted.
 
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I have been using REV. 2 for a couple of weeks now and of course…. It’s fucking great!
Really nice to have a built in tri-sync helper. Saves some space inside my NNC so I can fit those big ass PCB’s if I wanted to AND it looks like a million bucks!

Snazzy!
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I take pride in pimping my monitors to the extreme, but @invzim tech takes it to legendary levels of awesome. Have some free CRT-porn!

Ps. Taking picture of Bullethell games on a CRT is hard…
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Extreme snake/dinosaur-monster-thingy close up!
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