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New Net City LED light mod question

I'm not that keen on removing the ballast as I like to keep things as oem as possible & would have to cut wires ect.
 
Chihiro said:
I'm not that keen on removing the ballast as I like to keep things as oem as possible & would have to cut wires ect.
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Me too. That is why I asked if it is possible to keep the ballast but get rid of the starter, since it influences the convergence in tate mode on a NNC.
 
Tell me about issues replacing Sega fluorescent lights. I have to install a LED tube in the marquee of my daytona and I can't find a tube with the correct size. Is about 30, 31 inches long.
 
Moonwalker said:
Me too. That is why I asked if it is possible to keep the ballast but get rid of the starter, since it influences the convergence in tate mode on a NNC.
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That's interesting, I can't say I've run into that issue, though I did convergence on the monitor with fully working lighting at the time.
 
I got some more drop ins from NYLL on Amazon. They're a "small business" on Amazon and shipped direct. I think the GE ones are nicer overall but these work too. The 24" fit fine in my new net city but it was a little tight like previously mentioned, but once seated it's fine.
PXL_20230810_182952322.jpg PXL_20230810_183309046.jpg


Here's a comparison of a 24" bulb that was in my usdm blast city vs the metric length that was in my new net city.
PXL_20230810_183440800.jpg
 
I think I imported something but never continued the work. Somehow the flickering got better...
 
Moonwalker said:
I think I imported something but never continued the work. Somehow the flickering got better...
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Not an option for me unfortunately. Missing the light 😅 starter is there maybe it would still work but no idea. And no one ships these lights to Germany. And finding an led that would work with 110v seems also impossible. The information on this topic is mainly useless because i cant get the parts 😅
 

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Ma-Yuan said:
And finding an led that would work with 110v seems also impossible
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Really? I've tried three different brands and two of them worked. A generic brand and Osram.

Try bypassing the ballast. It's not needed and can be an issue with LED tubes.
 
@nem did you try them with the Noir unit I stripped mine down but couldn't see a ballast, it was a NEC unit.

V1 cab.

I always thought everything these days was 100-240v.
 
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I've did the LED mod with this led tube model: https://amzn.eu/d/1vt6HN3
Simply remove the old tube and the ballast and connect this, the input voltage accept a wide range, from 85V to 265V
 
nem said:
Yes, I have LED tubes in my Noirs as well. I actually converted my old Noirs to 230V completely:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/namco-noir-advice.13039/page-18#post-414589
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/namco-noir-advice.13039/page-19#post-414912

I definitely had ballasts in my cabs. IIRC they were electronic ones without starters.
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I don't know why I said ballast I actually meant I couldn't see a starter so I guess they don't have them on the Noir units so can I just drop in a LED tube without worrying about flicker?

Btw what is the 3.3v PSU used for ? I guess the 12v is for the audio & 5v for the I/O?
 
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Chihiro said:
I don't know why I said ballast I actually meant I couldn't see a starter so I guess they don't have them on the Noir units so can I just drop in a LED tube without worrying about flicker?
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I bypassed the ballast. I didn't even try with it.

Chihiro said:
Btw what is the 3.3v PSU used for ?
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It's just there for full JVS compatibility (like for Naomi).
 
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