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PGM single game PCB assembly and troubleshooting

R2,R3,R4 should have resistors only if you use for U5 & U6 Lattice gal16v8 .

R1 ( 100 ohm , 0.6w , axial ) is for Atmel gal16v8

i use to have only R1 because im using atmel gal’s

so , if you use something else but the Atmel chip.. just mount the 3 extra 10K resistors to the PCB and you should be fine

you also
can mount all resistors from 1 to 4 and use lets say one gal Lattice & one gal Atmel, but its up what parts you have
Thanks. This was a big help. I have the Atmel chips and just realized I messed up on my digikey order getting only 1 .6w 100 ohm resistor. I have tons of .25w and .5 watt resistors but none .6w or bigger. Oh well I can still test 1 cart out tonight.
 
Ok, to give a bit more detail:
The 100 ohm resistor R1 is required for the PGM to recognise the cartridge. All original cartridges that I opened up seem to have it, when I put together the first prog PCB it didn't work until I added the 100 Ohm resistor.
R2-R4 can be used as pull-up resistors (10k) for the GAL inputs. The GAL should have built-in pull up resistors, but some people had problems getting cartridges to work without them. There is also a version of the GAL with pin-keeper circuits, which will just hold the previous input, but not pull it up.
You could also hard-code your preferred options in the GAL sourcecode, then you don't need to worry about the pull up resistors at all.
 
Just a quick note to thank @Fluffy for his beautiful pcb design. The first fully socketed cart went together easily. Even if it did remind me why I mainly use SMD components. I still thoroughly enjoyed the build. Game booted first go. Thanks again.
 

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Just a quick note for your next order, if you tick "Order Number (Specify Position)" it should put the code they use to identify your PCBs under one of the DIP sockets, so it isn't visible after assembly.
They don't seem to do this automatically, even though the placeholder "JLCJLCJLC" should be easy enough to detect.
 
That's not needed any more. You can remove the order number entirely now on JLCPCB.

jlcpcb_mark_on_pcb.jpg
 
I just finished building all 3 cartridges and they seem to be working. I compiled the roms using the script command python rom_gen.py *.zip. My question is regarding DoDonPachi DaiOuJou and the use of the J2 jumper. With no J2 jumper installed the game boots and works as intended. I see a screen where I can select new version and old version. When I add the jumper it brings up the IGS-PGM diagnostics screen. I used PGM_RG_U5_DDP.jed and ddp3_p1_dual.bin. To get all the features do I need the J2 jumper for this game? Or, is that the new version/ old version and somebody has now made a custom loader for both versions that I am seeing with no jumper installed so I don't need the j2 jumper? The J2 jumper definitely works with Ketsui.
 
The _dual version has the menu, so you don't need a jumper. Ketsui doesn't have a menu, it just has two versions of the game in different banks.
 
Strang strang issue with DDPDOJ. Everthing goes together fine game works as a dual boot as it should, it has the issue where occasionally if you try to boot white first time it crashes, but if you boot black first and reboot via the test menu it boots white fine.
Ok BUT it has a green flash on the first level like the red comes out of the picture for a second and then it flashes back in. I would say it's my test setup but once it goes through the attract 2nd and third time it goes away once you pass the first level it goes away ????? Ideas.
 
A little bit more detail on this issue. It's not even the whole first level it happens until just after the 1st big gun (mini boss) and then goes away. I have tried each of the eproms separately using a replacement, still there, I have tried different boards prog and char, still there. I am starting to think it's either a part I am using, it's in the rom or it's my pgm. It seems strange that it would be my pgm given it goes away. I'll try a different mame rom. But it's driving me crazy not being able to figure it out.
 
Ok, to give a bit more detail:
The 100 ohm resistor R1 is required for the PGM to recognise the cartridge. All original cartridges that I opened up seem to have it, when I put together the first prog PCB it didn't work until I added the 100 Ohm resistor.
R2-R4 can be used as pull-up resistors (10k) for the GAL inputs. The GAL should have built-in pull up resistors, but some people had problems getting cartridges to work without them. There is also a version of the GAL with pin-keeper circuits, which will just hold the previous input, but not pull it up.
You could also hard-code your preferred options in the GAL sourcecode, then you don't need to worry about the pull up resistors at all.
Some carts like Demon Front don't have the R1 100R resistor. I presume that's due to the asic chip being used as a CPU. Not sure if the other carts that use the asic as a CPU also have no R1 100R
 
I think the Lydz board doesn't use it either. I feel like there must be a Chinese "街机项目" forum where people have a bit more information, but the language barrier gets in the way of working together.
 
I have definitely seen a reproduction of your boards (with added graphics) places being passed off as someone else's work as well as a set modified for 5v SMD flash. So information seems to be travelling one way at least.
 
I have definitely seen a reproduction of your boards (with added graphics) places being passed off as someone else's work as well as a set modified for 5v SMD flash. So information seems to be travelling one way at least.
There was already a board in use before I released my gerbers. There is no magic in this, the char board is mostly a "dumb" memory board, once you have worked out the pinout by tracing the connections on an original cartridge you can make your own. The prog board needed a bit to reverse engineer the two GAL/PAL, but after that they are just a copy of the original cartridge with all the ASIC support logic removed.
The most work for me was to route the char board, as the pinout is a bit awkward.
 
Strang strang issue with DDPDOJ. Everthing goes together fine game works as a dual boot as it should, it has the issue where occasionally if you try to boot white first time it crashes, but if you boot black first and reboot via the test menu it boots white fine.

I dont think you checked all this theard , but if you have time and dont want other crashes to have your customers happy , you can try this too (at least , what i sent out turns out to be just fine and the friend who tried is a good shmups player) :


ps : THE DDPDOJ way to be done is only that way i mentioned in that comment .

ALL YOUR PROBLEMS ARE FROM P1 eeprom .
 
There was already a board in use before I released my gerbers. There is no magic in this, the char board is mostly a "dumb" memory board, once you have worked out the pinout by tracing the connections on an original cartridge you can make your own. The prog board needed a bit to reverse engineer the two GAL/PAL, but after that they are just a copy of the original cartridge with all the ASIC support logic removed.
The most work for me was to route the char board, as the pinout is a bit awkward.
Oh I get that but component placement being almost 100% identical is a massive red flag, I have seen one rerouted so a 4 layet pcb was not required (but that was on a japanese site) and even then component placement was too similar to be a coincidence.
 
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