Thanks buddy for double check
Do you think can you measure it?
@rewrite doesnt have the frame and bittim pcb
- Thread starter hursit
- Start date
@rewrite doesnt have the frame and bittim pcb
Same.
The other WG 19K7000's label is washed away, so can't tell but looks the same. But yeah, measure yours. Lay screen down to a hardfloor adjacent to a wall (line floor with newspaper so as to not scratch your screen. Lay level across neckboard touching the end of the level to the wall. Level out the leveler and mark the spot on your wall. Then measure from floor to mark.
List updated.
Orders:
animesuperj - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
benime - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
theoddtech - Pink x2
Rg111 - Green x1
hoagtech - Green x2 (Deposit Paid)
Blue_Fox - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
statix138 - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
chowmarcus - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Artee023 - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Sebastian M. - Green x1
acblunden2 - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
Bad_Hambre - Pink x1
Lemony Vengeance - Yellow x1
rewrite - Green x1, Pink x1, Yellow x1
Fletcher - Green x1
Pixel Krisis - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Derick2K - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
Pega$u$ - Green x1
Kidkaos - Pink x1
Jermz0r - Pink x1
Larry D. - Yellow x1
zero238 - Green x1, Yellow x1
EDIT: If I'm taking 8, that's 35/40.
Orders:
animesuperj - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
benime - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
theoddtech - Pink x2
Rg111 - Green x1
hoagtech - Green x2 (Deposit Paid)
Blue_Fox - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
statix138 - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
chowmarcus - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Artee023 - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Sebastian M. - Green x1
acblunden2 - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
Bad_Hambre - Pink x1
Lemony Vengeance - Yellow x1
rewrite - Green x1, Pink x1, Yellow x1
Fletcher - Green x1
Pixel Krisis - Pink x1 (Deposit Paid)
Derick2K - Green x1 (Deposit Paid)
Pega$u$ - Green x1
Kidkaos - Pink x1
Jermz0r - Pink x1
Larry D. - Yellow x1
zero238 - Green x1, Yellow x1
EDIT: If I'm taking 8, that's 35/40.
NoGoodCitizen
Student
Please put me down for a pink one!
Ok guys there is a bad news about 19" Wells Gardner CRT
It doesnt fit into the original Cabinet. The Bottom PCB will touch to the Backdoor which is very dangerous
So , i dont want to change the original design.
I think best option is to make 17" CRT or LCD. Im talking with someone who has 17" Brand New CRT'S , im waiting his news about it. We will talk about with @Cereth too.
My first prototype hadnt original measuremets. But this time %95 of the cabinet is original, thats why 19" cannot fit. I had put 20" into my first prototype.
It doesnt fit into the original Cabinet. The Bottom PCB will touch to the Backdoor which is very dangerous
So , i dont want to change the original design.
I think best option is to make 17" CRT or LCD. Im talking with someone who has 17" Brand New CRT'S , im waiting his news about it. We will talk about with @Cereth too.
My first prototype hadnt original measuremets. But this time %95 of the cabinet is original, thats why 19" cannot fit. I had put 20" into my first prototype.
bagheera369
Champion
Guys....I know everyone is excited, and all this communication is going long distance, and I hope this is gonna be fantastic.....but maybe we should not put the timecrunch on, and the money down, until everything is at least even 90%?
Accounting for things like tube clearance, frame mounting locations, and most importantly, neckboard and chassis clearance is vitally important, and it seems like there's significant work left to do here?
Now switching from an easy to find 19" down to a much more difficult to source 17" , or being stuck running LCD's, is going to impact everything that people were expecting about the project.
I'm not trying to smash on Hursit, Cereth, and the others contributing, who's work and time are invaluable....or the project, because obviously it's highly in demand......just that this type of rush, is the perfect breeding ground for problems, of a major sort, and will potentially result in a ton of hurt feelings, or worse.
I'm unable to get one, regardless.....but just something to think about.
Accounting for things like tube clearance, frame mounting locations, and most importantly, neckboard and chassis clearance is vitally important, and it seems like there's significant work left to do here?
Now switching from an easy to find 19" down to a much more difficult to source 17" , or being stuck running LCD's, is going to impact everything that people were expecting about the project.
I'm not trying to smash on Hursit, Cereth, and the others contributing, who's work and time are invaluable....or the project, because obviously it's highly in demand......just that this type of rush, is the perfect breeding ground for problems, of a major sort, and will potentially result in a ton of hurt feelings, or worse.
I'm unable to get one, regardless.....but just something to think about.
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I added it in the notes for your order
chowmarcus
Beginner
Yea 17" will be fine if you can source it for me.
Please add it to my order too! Thanks!
Please add it to my order too! Thanks!
Man... Having the recapped K7000 I have sitting on the shelf suddenly not fit an hour after I put in a preorder is a gigantic red flag. Glad I haven't put any money down on this yet. Come on guys.
I was buying this specifically because it didn't need any weird unobtainium monitors and could use easy to source standard arcade components.
I was buying this specifically because it didn't need any weird unobtainium monitors and could use easy to source standard arcade components.
bummer about the 19” not working.
‘Why would a 20” work and not a 19”?
Either way I see claims of brand new crts on Alibaba in 18” and 19” but none of their spec pages make sense.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...?spm=a2700.details.deiletai6.9.52ec61e4eMoe1p
‘Why would a 20” work and not a 19”?
Either way I see claims of brand new crts on Alibaba in 18” and 19” but none of their spec pages make sense.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...?spm=a2700.details.deiletai6.9.52ec61e4eMoe1p
17" CRT Arcade monitors will be Brand New.
If you dont want it , you have right about it
bummer about the 19” not working.
‘Why would a 20” work and not a 19”?
Either way I see claims of brand new crts on Alibaba in 18” and 19” but none of their spec pages make sense.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...?spm=a2700.details.deiletai6.9.52ec61e4eMoe1p
The first prototype wasnt like original measurements. Thats why i have put 20" CRT Tube inside it. But im still drawing it as original again.
The Schematic Says it can fit into the cabinet. I have drawn the Monitor and Bezel as Schematics and there was no problem. But some members have checked it and looks like Schematics not correct. Thats why it doesnt fit now.
I have finished the drawing 1 hour ago for Monitor and i have put it into the Draw and realize the bottom PCB will touch to the back door. This is very dangeroues situation about of the electycity.
This is the schematics i mention
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@Reechard, did you see this statement below? At most, you might be heart broken. But your money is protected.
If that dimension is to too large, please consider stamping a cup out on the back panel for clearance. This would be a needed design change that would differentiate the repro from the original. It has been mentioned before, we don't want some poor chap paying $3000+ in the aftermarket for something that they think is OG, when it is repro.
The K7000 cannot be abandoned. Reason being, it is too well studied. Parts for it are still readily available. And it is easily repaired. A functional design change that would still keep the rest of the cab very close to OG is preferable to going with an unknown monitor that little is known about and may not have parts for repair.
Hold on @hursit. I have not given you the mount points yet. If you are saying your total depth from screen bezel does not fit, then we will have to find another way. But if mount points do make it compatible, then things aren't lost.
If that dimension is to too large, please consider stamping a cup out on the back panel for clearance. This would be a needed design change that would differentiate the repro from the original. It has been mentioned before, we don't want some poor chap paying $3000+ in the aftermarket for something that they think is OG, when it is repro.
The K7000 cannot be abandoned. Reason being, it is too well studied. Parts for it are still readily available. And it is easily repaired. A functional design change that would still keep the rest of the cab very close to OG is preferable to going with an unknown monitor that little is known about and may not have parts for repair.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
I can't fathom that money switched hands and you guys are not out of the concept stages here.
I was the one that clued rewrite in on the monitor differences. If a 19" WG isn't going to fit, you might have a real hard time getting anything to fit. Just because the monitor is a hair smaller in tube size doesn't mean that the depth will be any different. Also as rewrite stated, you need to compensate for the monitor frame on these small monitors. They often have a component like a HOT built directly into the frame, thus the monitor wont work without it.
I worked in metal fabrication for years and what you're trying to pull off is next to impossible. You need to test fit shit to make it fit right. I know I was poopoo'd last time which led to me telling @hursit to go fuck himself, but in the interest of people I like being involved in this can I possibly make some suggestions?
- If the neck board is right up against the back, just bump the back out another half inch to three quarters out. The bend will be slightly from different the the current design, but I think everyone will be able to keep their Tism at bay because its against the wall.
- All money should be refunded until this project is in production. This isn't how this works and you all know it. You're gonna hit snags like this but they can be worked through, but having peoples money on the line sucks for both sides here because it causes the time crunch that you're currently experiencing.
I was the one that clued rewrite in on the monitor differences. If a 19" WG isn't going to fit, you might have a real hard time getting anything to fit. Just because the monitor is a hair smaller in tube size doesn't mean that the depth will be any different. Also as rewrite stated, you need to compensate for the monitor frame on these small monitors. They often have a component like a HOT built directly into the frame, thus the monitor wont work without it.
I worked in metal fabrication for years and what you're trying to pull off is next to impossible. You need to test fit shit to make it fit right. I know I was poopoo'd last time which led to me telling @hursit to go fuck himself, but in the interest of people I like being involved in this can I possibly make some suggestions?
- If the neck board is right up against the back, just bump the back out another half inch to three quarters out. The bend will be slightly from different the the current design, but I think everyone will be able to keep their Tism at bay because its against the wall.
- All money should be refunded until this project is in production. This isn't how this works and you all know it. You're gonna hit snags like this but they can be worked through, but having peoples money on the line sucks for both sides here because it causes the time crunch that you're currently experiencing.
This part right here is the absolute core of my argument. Brand New 17" CRT from China will not be around in 20 years.... My 19" k7000 still will be.
I absolutely believe any changes made to the repro to allow for standard components is absolutely justified over trying to wedge in weird aftermarket parts for the sake of 100% accuracy.
Please check the firs picture.
The total lenght it on the Schematic is 430mm and it fits into the cabinet. There is a space 17mm around and i think it is well
But if i add extra 17mm to it which you gave to me around 450 mm. It touches to the Backdoor.
If it is just the backpanel, I think we'll all be fine if you design in a cupped out back panel (a la the Blast City). This will serve as the key differentiator demarking the cab as a repro from the OG. Keep the rest of your design spec in place.
