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Retro Scaler A1

invzim said:
According to the logs, everything looks OK, not any difference actually that I can spot.

Both reach stage 4, and stay there which is good:
https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/detailed-mode-of-operation

So leave the sync at TTL.

Can it be that it's some very borderline tolerance issue with the LCD and that it works OK with another monitor?
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Has to be, its weird, installing the tri-sync just made it work, so Im very happy :) Just wish this lcd was a bit more compatible.

Forgot to ask you before any chance I can get 2 extra tri-sync helpers in addition to another jammafier + tri-sync when they are ready? And in the future will buy 2 more A1s :)
 
Do you have any other carts and do they have sync issues? I can walk you through where to wire up the scope to get it to show the sync signal if you would like.
 
I had some more time to test my retroscaler-A1 so I can test consoles I modify with a LCD instead of using my broadcast CRT all the time (on/off all the time i dont really like doing that to my CRT).

N64RGB seems to have some wavy vertical lines all over the screen but other consoles I have tried are all good. N64RGB PCB was configured with CSYNC75 or CSYNC and still had the wavy lines.

I made a picture to maybe help some people with connecting up to their retroscaler-a1 which is short and worked well for me.

Items used:
@Frank_fjs creation SYNCBOOSTER (set to CSYNC, actually stripping the sync, I find this is most compatible for the RS-A1)
XRGB mini Framemeister scart to 8 pin mini din cable
game console + scart cable
 

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There should be no need for anything in front of the A1, as it already has a chip doing sync separation/amplification etc. I believe the syncbooster thingie outputs TTL level sync, in which case you should not use sync=scart.

Little odd with N64, report so far indicate it may be a quirk with it. Got a 31k CRT to see if it may be LCD related?
 
Hey invzim, I have another syncbooster which is merely a passive adapter from 8 pin mini din to db15 but I do not get sync, at least ive tried with nesrgb and n64, both using ttl level sync or csync-75 - i did try changing the config file for both but still no sync. I should probably configure the log file and have a look through there, would you agree ?
 
Just got my delivery! I’m running a Vewlix C stock display and psu, the Jammafier 1.7c, and the Retro Scaler A1. Very easy, plug and play.

But my video is shaky on every board I’ve tried so far, not wild but very noticeable. Anything I should try? What power is the A1 looking for over usb? Tried a few dc converters but no change so far.

maybe just not 60hz sync...
 
It shouldn't be too picky, safe bet is usually to power it via the Jammafiers USB connector.
 
I’ll do that and find some boards I know do 60hz then, thx!
 
ekorz said:

tekken3 should be stable 60hz... any ideas?
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You may want to press the A button to re-adjust gain to get the color bars more uniform, but I think what you're seeing is the result of an analog signal being fed to the LCD and how the LCD interprets it. LCD's behave a bit different in this regard. It may improve in a future firmware edition if I do scaling to higher than 31khz, as the monitor will then (hopefully) believe there are more pixels pr line.
 
Cool, looking forward to that if it happens! I hadn’t adjusted the color at all, I was mostly just trying to record the jitter.
 
Here’s what I’ve tested on the Vewlix black diamond monitor:

Renegade- has a little jitter upon starting up, no issues during gameplay

IGS PGM- tested gladiator with no issues

CPS2- works great, no issues

Namco System 2- tried Phelios, dragon saber, and burning force- all test and work okay.

Sega Choplifter- will not boot, I think it needs a stronger -5v, as I can only get this to work with older psus.

I still have a lot to test, so far the jammafier+ retro scaler is a wonderful and probably better alternative to the Taito Jamma kit.
 
@invzim i just checked and it works supremely better on another lcd, so it’s probably just this monitor or the cables. I’m sure I’ll work it out shortly.
 
radiantsvgun said:
Here’s what I’ve tested on the Vewlix black diamond monitor:

Renegade- has a little jitter upon starting up, no issues during gameplay

IGS PGM- tested gladiator with no issues

CPS2- works great, no issues

Namco System 2- tried Phelios, dragon saber, and burning force- all test and work okay.

Sega Choplifter- will not boot, I think it needs a stronger -5v, as I can only get this to work with older psus.

I still have a lot to test, so far the jammafier+ retro scaler is a wonderful and probably better alternative to the Taito Jamma kit.
Click to expand...
Great stuff, list updated and credit given - https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/tested-sources

Do you have sane voltage readings on the Jammafier with Choplifter, and what does the LED close to the jamma edge look like? -5V should go up to about 200mA, and do a graceful shutdown if overloaded (and the LED should go dim/off with it).
 
ekorz said:
@invzim i just checked and it works supremely better on another lcd, so it’s probably just this monitor or the cables. I’m sure I’ll work it out shortly.
Click to expand...
Yay, and thanks! I can test on my bench until my face is blue (I kind of did :)) - but the real test is when stuff is out in the wild :D
 
invzim said:
radiantsvgun said:
Here’s what I’ve tested on the Vewlix black diamond monitor:

Renegade- has a little jitter upon starting up, no issues during gameplay

IGS PGM- tested gladiator with no issues

CPS2- works great, no issues

Namco System 2- tried Phelios, dragon saber, and burning force- all test and work okay.

Sega Choplifter- will not boot, I think it needs a stronger -5v, as I can only get this to work with older psus.

I still have a lot to test, so far the jammafier+ retro scaler is a wonderful and probably better alternative to the Taito Jamma kit.
Click to expand...
Great stuff, list updated and credit given - https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/tested-sources
Do you have sane voltage readings on the Jammafier with Choplifter, and what does the LED close to the jamma edge look like? -5V should go up to about 200mA, and do a graceful shutdown if overloaded (and the LED should go dim/off with it).
Click to expand...
I'll test it again using the Sun Power supply. The Sanwa one I'm using now is not very strong.
 
Update on Choplifter- with the Sun psu it works fine. The colors seem a bit off, it’s like that on any of the crts outside of the one in my cocktail.

Cps 1.5 punisher and Cadillacs and dinosaurs work fine.

Armed Police Batrider- all good

Double dragon 2- not good, game comes up, but the screen is overly blue.

Tasujin Oh- boots and looks good

Cadash- boots but has odd shimmering but does work with sound.
 
Futari BL another version and Ibara Black- they work, but have a very weird refresh? It’s consistently jittering and shaking. Seems like all the cv-1000 hardware does it.

B rap boys- works and looks great.

Mystic Warriors- works and looks great.

Metamorphic Force- looks and works great

Martial Champion- looks and works great

Sand Scorpion - has some choppy horizontal lines but does work and colors look great

Sky shark- syncs, has the same choppy horizontal lines as sand scorpion but I was not expecting this to work.

Tiger Heli- works perfect- I was expecting this one not to work at all.

Gradius 2- works, screen is dark, looks washed out. On gameplay it’s like you can see the refresh rate- a constant black area keeps scrolling up and down.

Life force/ salamander- works perfectly, no issues... actually looks really good!

Overall, I’m extremely impressed by this combo.
 
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