If it’s plastic, you could try a very mild abrasive polish like novus.
- Thread starter bartre
- Start date
Thanks, I've ordered some to try it out
in the meantime, i've got all the pieces back and i'm working on cleaning/reassembly-
To Do-
Polish marquee
replace back wheels
locks/keys
rewire machine
polish front glass (one pair of nasty scratches)
apply art
Waiting on-
new speakers
marquee light
polish for marquee
New panel (Alberto special, but I've got a river service panel for a stop gap)
in the meantime, i've got all the pieces back and i'm working on cleaning/reassembly-
To Do-
Polish marquee
replace back wheels
locks/keys
rewire machine
polish front glass (one pair of nasty scratches)
apply art
Waiting on-
new speakers
marquee light
polish for marquee
New panel (Alberto special, but I've got a river service panel for a stop gap)
No pics today, just a small update.
after spending too much money at the hardware store on fasteners, I've got things much more sturdy.
added missing nuts/bolts and replaced some that were thoroughly chunked
Also took a page out of a book I saw elsewhere on this forum and replaced the poorly spray painted/chewed wheels with some Skateboard wheels
smallest they had were 52s, but with a little sanding on the side they role pretty smoothly.
conveniently enough, the stock axle perfectly fits the bearings I bought (spitfire cheapshot)
I'm planning on starting the rewire soon, so I can do what I want, but I'm curious if anyone has a meaningful opinion.
How much slack should I leave for the Jamma harness?
My blast lets me dangle the harness out maybe a foot and that seems fine, but if i'm testing stuff out, I kinda have to use the 2P side to make sure my hooves don't send my PCBs to the afterlife.
I was looking at leaving maybe 2 feet of slack.
after spending too much money at the hardware store on fasteners, I've got things much more sturdy.
added missing nuts/bolts and replaced some that were thoroughly chunked
Also took a page out of a book I saw elsewhere on this forum and replaced the poorly spray painted/chewed wheels with some Skateboard wheels
smallest they had were 52s, but with a little sanding on the side they role pretty smoothly.
conveniently enough, the stock axle perfectly fits the bearings I bought (spitfire cheapshot)
I'm planning on starting the rewire soon, so I can do what I want, but I'm curious if anyone has a meaningful opinion.
How much slack should I leave for the Jamma harness?
My blast lets me dangle the harness out maybe a foot and that seems fine, but if i'm testing stuff out, I kinda have to use the 2P side to make sure my hooves don't send my PCBs to the afterlife.
I was looking at leaving maybe 2 feet of slack.
I just bought a jamma harness and ended up wrapping it around and zip tieing the excess. Shouldn't be an issue.
As for the hardware, I am still missing the screws/bolts that hold the top plexi marquee in place. Then the brass colored arm that holds the control panel box in place, there are two screws that hold it down. I am missing one of those. Think they were mentioned to me somewhere on this forum at some point but can't find them.
I can provide pics of anything you want for comparison and ideas.
As for the hardware, I am still missing the screws/bolts that hold the top plexi marquee in place. Then the brass colored arm that holds the control panel box in place, there are two screws that hold it down. I am missing one of those. Think they were mentioned to me somewhere on this forum at some point but can't find them.
I can provide pics of anything you want for comparison and ideas.
You mean this piece, right?
both the top screws that hold the thing to the topper as well as the two internal screws that secure the marquee holder are M4 size.
the ones go through look to be about 15mm long (manual says 20mm?), while the external ones are 6mm long
is this the arm piece you're missing?
I can't much say what to do about the actual piece, except maybe Yaton? he had several parts I was missing.
the screws though, M5 size (according to the manual, I can't remember what I bought but I'd happily check for you), I think I went with 10mm length, but that was more than enough.
Original screws use a split lock and a fender washer as well, so I did the same.
both the top screws that hold the thing to the topper as well as the two internal screws that secure the marquee holder are M4 size.
the ones go through look to be about 15mm long (manual says 20mm?), while the external ones are 6mm long
is this the arm piece you're missing?
I can't much say what to do about the actual piece, except maybe Yaton? he had several parts I was missing.
the screws though, M5 size (according to the manual, I can't remember what I bought but I'd happily check for you), I think I went with 10mm length, but that was more than enough.
Original screws use a split lock and a fender washer as well, so I did the same.
okay, spent some time today polishing up that marquee since the novus polish recommended by @kikaso showed up.
I think it did the trick pretty nicely, though I did kinda skimp on the very far edges (they're hidden by the box anyway so whatever.
Got that installed in the box as well as the speaker grills, looking pretty good imo-
and some basic pics of my wiring-
Also took a page out of another restore thread, took my thoroughly chunked wheels off and replaced them with some Skateboard wheels.
Conveniently, the standard bearings are the same size for the stock axle. I grabbed the smallest size they had (52mm) but I still had to sand down the sides to get them fitting well.
To Do-
locks/keys
rewire machine *mostly done, just need to clean up some bits
polish front glass (one pair of nasty scratches)
apply art
cut PCB mount board
Waiting on-
new speakers
marquee light
New panel (Alberto special, but I've got a river service panel for a stop gap)
I think it did the trick pretty nicely, though I did kinda skimp on the very far edges (they're hidden by the box anyway so whatever.
Got that installed in the box as well as the speaker grills, looking pretty good imo-
and some basic pics of my wiring-
Also took a page out of another restore thread, took my thoroughly chunked wheels off and replaced them with some Skateboard wheels.
Conveniently, the standard bearings are the same size for the stock axle. I grabbed the smallest size they had (52mm) but I still had to sand down the sides to get them fitting well.
To Do-
locks/keys
rewire machine *mostly done, just need to clean up some bits
polish front glass (one pair of nasty scratches)
apply art
cut PCB mount board
Waiting on-
new speakers
marquee light
New panel (Alberto special, but I've got a river service panel for a stop gap)
spent some time today tidying up the wiring, starting to look pretty nice
sadly some of the cable cinches I had weren't wanting to stick to the wall, so I went out and bought some Gorilla tape, that did the trick.
as part of the sandblasting process, the twist ties lost their little rubberized coating.
So as a test, I threw some heat shrink over them and that came out pretty darned nice.
Finally, I worked on dialing in the monitor, she's looking good-
sadly some of the cable cinches I had weren't wanting to stick to the wall, so I went out and bought some Gorilla tape, that did the trick.
as part of the sandblasting process, the twist ties lost their little rubberized coating.
So as a test, I threw some heat shrink over them and that came out pretty darned nice.
Finally, I worked on dialing in the monitor, she's looking good-
After many headaches- we have video and sound!
https://youtube.com/shorts/xSZSa8845Qw?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/xSZSa8845Qw?feature=share
Well I opted to have a shop handle the CPO art for me, I think it turned out great-
Also got the rubber back on with a little gorilla tape and then put the metal guides on.
Messed around with homebrew solutions to repair the acratches in my glass and its just not panned out at all. Gonna take it to a shop tomorrow
All thats left-
Glass (scratch repair)
Side art
Locks (waiting on a friend)
Light (yaton, shipped)
Also got the rubber back on with a little gorilla tape and then put the metal guides on.
Messed around with homebrew solutions to repair the acratches in my glass and its just not panned out at all. Gonna take it to a shop tomorrow
All thats left-
Glass (scratch repair)
Side art
Locks (waiting on a friend)
Light (yaton, shipped)
Mine looked like that as well. I used soap and water to clean the front and gently wiped the transfilm on the back to remove the browning. Instead of polish, I applied a thin coat of White lithium grease and rubbed lightly with a dry cotton cloth.Okay, got everything back from the powder coater today, came out real nice-
Now begins the task of reassembly and rewiring.
Next up, I need to get the overspray off of the marquee, any tips?
Would citristrip be a good try, or is there something better?
I think they turned out near perfect:
Got the side art applied today!
All that's left now is the locks and glass!
taking the glass to a shop tomorrow to see if they'll be able to fix it otherwise I'll just have them cut me a new one and be done with it.
All that's left now is the locks and glass!
taking the glass to a shop tomorrow to see if they'll be able to fix it otherwise I'll just have them cut me a new one and be done with it.
Continuing my work, I'm trying to get the h and v sizes dialed in. The vertical was no problem, but I can't get any actual adjustments to stick with the h size.
The h hold and I phase adjustments seem to do the same thing, and I can't get any changes to come from the width coil either.
Granted, I've never adjusted that before.
I bought one of those plastic adjustment tool sets, but I don't feel anything inside the coil turn. Best I can get it this outer piece with the hex socket
Any clues?
The h hold and I phase adjustments seem to do the same thing, and I can't get any changes to come from the width coil either.
Granted, I've never adjusted that before.
I bought one of those plastic adjustment tool sets, but I don't feel anything inside the coil turn. Best I can get it this outer piece with the hex socket
Any clues?
Have you tried switching positions on that jumper between N and W (narrow and wide)
I had a busted width coil on an old chassis, luckily it broke in a good spot. You should be able to replace it.
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/monitors/monitor-width-coils/
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/monitors/monitor-width-coils/
