AlxUnderBase
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Awesome theard 
- Thread starter Thomas
- Start date
Capacitor kits save some money and a lot of time so *maybe* I'll look into buying one for a Blast City monitor later.
Credit mostly goes to Youtube. One channel I recommend is Paint Society https://www.youtube.com/c/PaintSociety
I should mention that the paints I used aren't guaranteed to be compatible. The dupli-color sandable primer is for fiberglass and metal but I also used it for the plastic control panel base. For plastic I think a specific plastic primer (or adhesion promoter) would be better. Maybe depends on the type of plastic it is. And some people online say the two-part clear coat shouldn't be used over dupli-color lacquer. I'm not worried about either of these things being an issue and so far I don't have any problems with my paint.
Wiring
The JAMMA harness was in good order already so I only needed to figure how to route everything properly. It was all very filthy and here I did apply the ubiquitous Simple Green and water for cleaning.
Two wires are crimped together. Not sure what that is. Doesn't look like fuses are in there.
I also don't know what the black bendy thing is screwed to the top of the power supply unit. I'm using it to tie down the female AC cable. The manual shows a 300W outlet on the side of the PSU to be used while doing maintenance and with the PSU turned off. My unit doesn't have this so I'll assume that's what the cable is.
When changing to a 3-prong grounded power cable, be sure to use 16 gauge. I used a 14 gauge cable and had to shave down the rubber grommet then barely was able to force it through the hole with pliers.
CPS2 extra button "kick" harness from Lemony Vengeance.
The control panel, complete with sticks and buttons, is official Sega new old stock (supposedly) from ebay (japangifshopjg_0). Switch 1 and 3 wiring was reversed on both 1 and 2 player controls. This was a little annoying because I'm not familiar with JAMMA or arcade controller wiring and thought maybe someone reversed those connections on my JAMMA harness. I referred to the wiring diagram in the Astro manual and did a continuity test to confirm that my cabinet wiring is all correct, so the control wiring was not. Did the same with the kick harness, just to be sure, and the harness and cabinet are both wired correctly according to the SFZ3 manual. Also, the ball tops were both loose but easily tightened by holding a screwdriver against the underside of the stick while turning the ball top.
The Logitech speakers widely recommended online are indeed a perfect fit. I can't remember how other people connected them. What I did was cut the positive terminal in half to make it fit the original speaker wire connection.
The JAMMA harness was in good order already so I only needed to figure how to route everything properly. It was all very filthy and here I did apply the ubiquitous Simple Green and water for cleaning.
Two wires are crimped together. Not sure what that is. Doesn't look like fuses are in there.
I also don't know what the black bendy thing is screwed to the top of the power supply unit. I'm using it to tie down the female AC cable. The manual shows a 300W outlet on the side of the PSU to be used while doing maintenance and with the PSU turned off. My unit doesn't have this so I'll assume that's what the cable is.
When changing to a 3-prong grounded power cable, be sure to use 16 gauge. I used a 14 gauge cable and had to shave down the rubber grommet then barely was able to force it through the hole with pliers.
CPS2 extra button "kick" harness from Lemony Vengeance.
The control panel, complete with sticks and buttons, is official Sega new old stock (supposedly) from ebay (japangifshopjg_0). Switch 1 and 3 wiring was reversed on both 1 and 2 player controls. This was a little annoying because I'm not familiar with JAMMA or arcade controller wiring and thought maybe someone reversed those connections on my JAMMA harness. I referred to the wiring diagram in the Astro manual and did a continuity test to confirm that my cabinet wiring is all correct, so the control wiring was not. Did the same with the kick harness, just to be sure, and the harness and cabinet are both wired correctly according to the SFZ3 manual. Also, the ball tops were both loose but easily tightened by holding a screwdriver against the underside of the stick while turning the ball top.
The Logitech speakers widely recommended online are indeed a perfect fit. I can't remember how other people connected them. What I did was cut the positive terminal in half to make it fit the original speaker wire connection.
Below are the ground points (green wires) according to the manual. Except for two that I'm missing that should attach to the left and right instruction holder bolts.
More details about the ground wiring here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/where-does-this-wire-go-on-an-astro-city.18328/post-289020
More details about the ground wiring here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/where-does-this-wire-go-on-an-astro-city.18328/post-289020
Billboard Lower (A.K.A. marquee)
This is a reproduction made by Rbtamanini from this forum. The construction is solid and the shape and size are perfect. The colors look great too although I can't find a photograph from the 1990s of an Astro City so I still don't know what the original colors looked like exactly. The colors on the advertisements look like they were altered and aren't the true colors. Regardless, I like how this reproduction looks and the colors look nice when lit.
One problem. Three actually. Compared to the original, the "Astro City" spacing is off. Plus the "Aero Dynamic Shape" font is wrong. And if we want to be EXTRA picky... the original letters are embossed while the reproduction letters are not.
All of that would be a deal-breaker for many. I think It would be for me if I did a comparison first. I still have the original and can switch back to it later if I'm bothered by the lettering. I didn't notice any differences until I compared side by side. And even while comparing side by side I somehow still didn't see the spacing problem until it was pointed out to me by Aurich.
It's possible that the spacing and font issues will be corrected (thanks to Aurich) if you order one of these billboards now. More on that here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/repro-sega-snk-and-taito-panels.12276/post-287597
If you do order one and if you're lucky, you might receive some adhesive tape to affix your new billboard. Otherwise you need some strong double-sided adhesive tape that is about 1/4 inch (6mm) wide. I used 3M Exterior Attachment Tape from an automotive parts store.
Tip: be sure to remove all of the old adhesive (soaking with Goof Off then scraping with a plastic spudger works well) and apply touch-up paint (if needed) BEFORE putting on the new billboard. If you don't there may be some visible black spots at the bottom.
The two bolts on the front of the billboard were rusted and my vinegar soak made them shiny silver. I assume they were originally painted black so I sprayed them with Rust-Oleum enamel.
This is a reproduction made by Rbtamanini from this forum. The construction is solid and the shape and size are perfect. The colors look great too although I can't find a photograph from the 1990s of an Astro City so I still don't know what the original colors looked like exactly. The colors on the advertisements look like they were altered and aren't the true colors. Regardless, I like how this reproduction looks and the colors look nice when lit.
One problem. Three actually. Compared to the original, the "Astro City" spacing is off. Plus the "Aero Dynamic Shape" font is wrong. And if we want to be EXTRA picky... the original letters are embossed while the reproduction letters are not.
All of that would be a deal-breaker for many. I think It would be for me if I did a comparison first. I still have the original and can switch back to it later if I'm bothered by the lettering. I didn't notice any differences until I compared side by side. And even while comparing side by side I somehow still didn't see the spacing problem until it was pointed out to me by Aurich.
It's possible that the spacing and font issues will be corrected (thanks to Aurich) if you order one of these billboards now. More on that here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/repro-sega-snk-and-taito-panels.12276/post-287597
If you do order one and if you're lucky, you might receive some adhesive tape to affix your new billboard. Otherwise you need some strong double-sided adhesive tape that is about 1/4 inch (6mm) wide. I used 3M Exterior Attachment Tape from an automotive parts store.
Tip: be sure to remove all of the old adhesive (soaking with Goof Off then scraping with a plastic spudger works well) and apply touch-up paint (if needed) BEFORE putting on the new billboard. If you don't there may be some visible black spots at the bottom.
The two bolts on the front of the billboard were rusted and my vinegar soak made them shiny silver. I assume they were originally painted black so I sprayed them with Rust-Oleum enamel.
Cleaning
Not much to add about cleaning a cabinet that hasn't been covered before. Nearly every piece of metal was covered with rust. Soaking in vinegar for a few days, followed by some scrubbing with Bar Keeper's Friend, then rubbing with metal polish was my way of treating it. The vinegar took off all the paint on the speaker grills.
All clean.
I know a lot of people like to clean their monitors with de-greaser and a garden hose and put PCBs through a dishwashing machine and I'm sure that's all perfectly fine. But I'm not into it. A brush, dry rag, and electric duster takes out most of the loose dirt. A damp rag around the tube, frame, wiring, and other bits for the stuck-on dirt. For the PCB, 99% isopropyl alcohol. This cleaning method certainly takes longer than the garden hose/dishwasher approach and doesn't remove 100% of the dirt. But that's ok with me.
This photo is after replacing the capacitors. With the PCB taken apart I was able to clean the board well with alcohol.
The metal piece that attaches to the bottom front (leg adjustment bracket?) needed some extra attention. I spent a long time trying to sand away the scratches with an orbital sander and 80 grit. Then finished by wet sanding by hand to bring back the brushed stainless look. Ideally I should have used a grinder to level out the surface before sanding but I don't have a grinder. I was disappointed with my results but fortunately once indoors and in normal room lighting it looks fine.
Dude, I'm stuck at this part...
So I used the vinegar, then the Bar Keeper's Friend but my pieces aren't as polished as yours.
Did you used Brasso afterwards?
Thanks!
No Brasso. I soaked everything in vinegar for a few days. Some pieces got a second soak. I had a lot of rust. Then used a brush with Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water. Then used a Chemical Guy's metal polish to rub away the remaining rust with a microfiber towel. You might not need any polish or Bar Keeper's Friend. After the vinegar soak, try to rub away the rust residue with a dry cloth.
Painting Details
Below are the details of my painting process for anyone interested. I still recommend watching youtube videos for car painting since there are a lot of additonal details to be aware of. My process was the same for fiberglass, metal, and plastic. It's important to read instructions and data sheets for paint products as flash times, dry times, re-coat windows, optimal temperature/humidity etc. can differ between products and manufacturers. Respirator, gloves, and safety glasses are recommended while spraying paint and essential if using a two-part paint or clear coat (such as SprayMax 2K).
Preparation:
I used an orbital sander or sanding block where possible, starting with 120 grit to remove most of the paint, or at least the loose paint and any rust. Then sanded with 220 grit followed by 320 while making sure to smooth any transitions between old paint and fiberglass/metal ("feathering" the edges). I used a maroon scuffing pad to reach some difficult areas such as the back of the service door. After sanding I thoroughly cleaned with wax and grease remover.
Primer:
Sprayed one light coat followed by two medium coats, 10 minutes between coats. 30 minutes after third coat, wet sanded with 400 grit followed by 600. Cleaned again with wax and grease remover. This was all done outside. The next steps I did in the garage.
*A different primer specifically designed for plastics should be used for the plastic control panel base but I used only one primer for all the parts I painted on the cabinet and don't have any issues so far.
Paint:
Wiped all surfaces with a tack cloth. (I also kept the floor wet with water in the garage while spraying paint to keep dust in the air to a minimum.) Sprayed one light coat followed by a medium coat, then two heavy coats. 10 minutes between coats. On a few pieces I waited 30 minutes after the third coat, wet sanded with 1000 grit to remove any imperfections, then sprayed the fourth coat.
Clear coat:
30 minutes after the final paint coat, I wiped the surface very lightly with a tack cloth (barely touching the surface). Then sprayed one light coat of clear, then a light-medium coat. Third and fourth coats I sprayed heavy. As thick as possible without causing runs or sags. 15 minutes between coats.
Sand/Buff/Polish:
This step is optional and the amount of sanding needed depends on the amount of bumpiness (orange peel texture) on the surface after spraying clear coat, and how much of that orange peel you want to remove. And this step shouldn't be done if only two or three coats of clear were sprayed. I sprayed four so I wouldn't need to worry about sanding through the clear coat.
24 hours after spraying clear I wet sanded with 1000 grit, then 1500, 2000, 2500, and lastly 3000. It's good to keep the surfaces very wet while sanding and to be very careful on edges and corners. Only 1500 and up should be used on edges with light pressure and always sanding off the edge, never against. I used a sanding block where possible. I then polished with 3M compound, Meguiar's compound, then Meguiar's polish. I did this all by hand. A powered polishing tool is highly recommended.
Below are the details of my painting process for anyone interested. I still recommend watching youtube videos for car painting since there are a lot of additonal details to be aware of. My process was the same for fiberglass, metal, and plastic. It's important to read instructions and data sheets for paint products as flash times, dry times, re-coat windows, optimal temperature/humidity etc. can differ between products and manufacturers. Respirator, gloves, and safety glasses are recommended while spraying paint and essential if using a two-part paint or clear coat (such as SprayMax 2K).
Preparation:
I used an orbital sander or sanding block where possible, starting with 120 grit to remove most of the paint, or at least the loose paint and any rust. Then sanded with 220 grit followed by 320 while making sure to smooth any transitions between old paint and fiberglass/metal ("feathering" the edges). I used a maroon scuffing pad to reach some difficult areas such as the back of the service door. After sanding I thoroughly cleaned with wax and grease remover.
Primer:
Sprayed one light coat followed by two medium coats, 10 minutes between coats. 30 minutes after third coat, wet sanded with 400 grit followed by 600. Cleaned again with wax and grease remover. This was all done outside. The next steps I did in the garage.
*A different primer specifically designed for plastics should be used for the plastic control panel base but I used only one primer for all the parts I painted on the cabinet and don't have any issues so far.
Paint:
Wiped all surfaces with a tack cloth. (I also kept the floor wet with water in the garage while spraying paint to keep dust in the air to a minimum.) Sprayed one light coat followed by a medium coat, then two heavy coats. 10 minutes between coats. On a few pieces I waited 30 minutes after the third coat, wet sanded with 1000 grit to remove any imperfections, then sprayed the fourth coat.
Clear coat:
30 minutes after the final paint coat, I wiped the surface very lightly with a tack cloth (barely touching the surface). Then sprayed one light coat of clear, then a light-medium coat. Third and fourth coats I sprayed heavy. As thick as possible without causing runs or sags. 15 minutes between coats.
Sand/Buff/Polish:
This step is optional and the amount of sanding needed depends on the amount of bumpiness (orange peel texture) on the surface after spraying clear coat, and how much of that orange peel you want to remove. And this step shouldn't be done if only two or three coats of clear were sprayed. I sprayed four so I wouldn't need to worry about sanding through the clear coat.
24 hours after spraying clear I wet sanded with 1000 grit, then 1500, 2000, 2500, and lastly 3000. It's good to keep the surfaces very wet while sanding and to be very careful on edges and corners. Only 1500 and up should be used on edges with light pressure and always sanding off the edge, never against. I used a sanding block where possible. I then polished with 3M compound, Meguiar's compound, then Meguiar's polish. I did this all by hand. A powered polishing tool is highly recommended.
Assembly
The cabinet was missing screws in the back, some control panel overlay bolts, plus one of the nuts that secures the monitor. All I could find locally was the nut. Everything else I needed to order from arcadeartshop.com. $45 shipped is a lot to pay for a few bags of hardware but I couldn't find these sizes anywhere. However, the screws that attach to the light cover in the back insert into fiberglass so I could have used any length screw with slightly larger sized imperial diameter. Two holes were stripped back there so I had to use some different screws I found in a drawer anyway along with some wood glue and matchsticks to get a tight fit.
Added Scotch 1" heavy duty felt pads to the feet to prevent scratching my asbestos flooring.
Added grease to the wheel axles before putting them back together.
Locks are from yatonarcade.com. I read some negative comments about yatonarcade so I'll mention that my locks arrived in about three weeks in good, clean, and working condition.
I'm unable to determine what the 6th tongue is for. And it's odd that this type of tongue is for the cash box door but there's nothing for it to latch onto (it looks like it should latch something). The keys I ordered from Zax Amusements.
I'm curious to know why locks and keys are removed from these cabinets and where they go. I'll assume KC Arcade doesn't know. I think yatonarcade is in China but the return address for my locks is a PO Box with the same zip code as KC Arcade. I'll assume that's a coincidence.
Putting the two halves of the cabinet back together is as difficult as taking them apart. The screws are difficult to turn and I had trouble getting everything to line up. Laying the cabinet on its back, then loosening and tightening screws a few times around the back and sides plus the bolts in the back while trying to squeeze it all together worked eventually.
I still have some gaps that I couldn't get rid of. One is between the control panel base and the upper front half. They don't line up perfectly. But the Astro City shown in the old advertisement flyers appears to have this as well so I can ignore it. The other is where the front panel connects with the rear half of the cabinet, both sides.
If I tighten the cash box door hinge fully, the door won't open enough to pull the coin bin out. I couldn't figure out why so my fix was to stick newspaper alongside the screws, then drive the screws in to get a snug fit and be able to open the door enough.
I don't have any tips for putting the monitor back in place other than wear gloves and ask for help. I did it alone and it's a bit of a challenge. Having long arms helps.
I noticed that the monitor frame has a spot to mount the adjustment knobs, but then they would be blocked by the monitor mask/bezel. Maybe this is for different cabinets that use this monitor.
The foam that goes around the inside of the monitor mask needs to barely rise above the edge of the plastic. The correct size to use is 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide. Anything more than an 1/8" thick and the top half of the cabinet won't fit together (I tried).
The cabinet was missing screws in the back, some control panel overlay bolts, plus one of the nuts that secures the monitor. All I could find locally was the nut. Everything else I needed to order from arcadeartshop.com. $45 shipped is a lot to pay for a few bags of hardware but I couldn't find these sizes anywhere. However, the screws that attach to the light cover in the back insert into fiberglass so I could have used any length screw with slightly larger sized imperial diameter. Two holes were stripped back there so I had to use some different screws I found in a drawer anyway along with some wood glue and matchsticks to get a tight fit.
Added Scotch 1" heavy duty felt pads to the feet to prevent scratching my asbestos flooring.
Added grease to the wheel axles before putting them back together.
Locks are from yatonarcade.com. I read some negative comments about yatonarcade so I'll mention that my locks arrived in about three weeks in good, clean, and working condition.
I'm unable to determine what the 6th tongue is for. And it's odd that this type of tongue is for the cash box door but there's nothing for it to latch onto (it looks like it should latch something). The keys I ordered from Zax Amusements.
I'm curious to know why locks and keys are removed from these cabinets and where they go. I'll assume KC Arcade doesn't know. I think yatonarcade is in China but the return address for my locks is a PO Box with the same zip code as KC Arcade. I'll assume that's a coincidence.
Putting the two halves of the cabinet back together is as difficult as taking them apart. The screws are difficult to turn and I had trouble getting everything to line up. Laying the cabinet on its back, then loosening and tightening screws a few times around the back and sides plus the bolts in the back while trying to squeeze it all together worked eventually.
I still have some gaps that I couldn't get rid of. One is between the control panel base and the upper front half. They don't line up perfectly. But the Astro City shown in the old advertisement flyers appears to have this as well so I can ignore it. The other is where the front panel connects with the rear half of the cabinet, both sides.
If I tighten the cash box door hinge fully, the door won't open enough to pull the coin bin out. I couldn't figure out why so my fix was to stick newspaper alongside the screws, then drive the screws in to get a snug fit and be able to open the door enough.
I don't have any tips for putting the monitor back in place other than wear gloves and ask for help. I did it alone and it's a bit of a challenge. Having long arms helps.
I noticed that the monitor frame has a spot to mount the adjustment knobs, but then they would be blocked by the monitor mask/bezel. Maybe this is for different cabinets that use this monitor.
The foam that goes around the inside of the monitor mask needs to barely rise above the edge of the plastic. The correct size to use is 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide. Anything more than an 1/8" thick and the top half of the cabinet won't fit together (I tried).
Once I had everything assembled I then noticed light from the fluorescent lamp leaking from the top and bottom of the monitor mask, the sides of the cabinet, and even at the top of the screen through the CRT glass. This is all very annoying so I employed layers of 3/8" thick and 1/8" thick (both 1/2" wide) weather stripping to block out all light while making sure the front panel and monitor mask still fit together properly. This took longer than expected and I still have a very small leak on the sides of the cabinet near the fluorescent lamp but I can ignore it.
I threw some unused money in the bottom of the coin bin directly under the coin chute exit to guarantee that subtle but wonderful sound of coins colliding with every coin drop.
Left over hardware. Hate when that happens. The ring looks like it's part of the coin mechanism but I can't see where it would go. The two screws look like part of the monitor chassis maybe.
The manual shows a "spacer" under the right side control panel base lock tongue. I don't have this and it doesn't seem to affect anything but I'm still curious what it's for. I'm also curious about the metal cable tie thing on the inside of the coin mechanism door.
The mysterious hole on the AC panel is identified as "CAP SW 30". I covered it with a... 30mm switch (button) cap.
Left over hardware. Hate when that happens. The ring looks like it's part of the coin mechanism but I can't see where it would go. The two screws look like part of the monitor chassis maybe.
The manual shows a "spacer" under the right side control panel base lock tongue. I don't have this and it doesn't seem to affect anything but I'm still curious what it's for. I'm also curious about the metal cable tie thing on the inside of the coin mechanism door.
The mysterious hole on the AC panel is identified as "CAP SW 30". I covered it with a... 30mm switch (button) cap.
Finishing Touches
Touch Up Paint:
The paint on the sides, front panel (entire top half), and area above the rear access panel/back lid (where the stickers are) is still original paint. I didn't spray those areas. This means I can keep all the original stickers but also means a lot of chips and scratches left in the old paint that needed to be addressed. I used Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint Honda Frost White NH538 to fill in all the damaged areas. I've always had trouble using these and the results are not so great. I'll be the first to say that my touch up work in some spots is total amateur hour and it looks awful. But I only notice it when I look for it, and when I see it, it doesn't bother me.
For some very small scratches I sprayed paint from a can onto aluminum foil, then used the end of a cotton swab with the cotton cut off to dab the paint into the scratch. I think this is easier to work with then the Dupli-color Scratch Fix. I saw some special tool that car detailers use to fill in rock chips so that is another option for extra precision. For larger areas, unfortunately those needed to be brushed and it's hard to make it look perfect, even with thin, light coats. The Scratch Fix also has a pen that is meant to fill long scratches but I find it difficult to control the paint flow. And if too much paint is put on, it's hard to spread it out with the pen to make it flat.
The monitor mask could use all new paint but I left it alone and only filled some deep scratches with Dupli-Color Scratch Fix universal black. When the light hits it a certain way all the imperfections stand out and it looks bad but it's not bothering me. Since the monitor mask is painted plastic I'm not sure if plastic polish is the best or proper product to use. I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish to remove light imperfections and add gloss. The paint is very fragile and came off easily so I applied the polish lightly.
Screen coating:
The monitor screen is covered with scratches (plus a healthy dose of burn in). Some scratches are pretty bad. I know it's common to peel or rub off the coating on CRT monitors when they are scratched but I don't want to do that. While playing a game I barely notice the scratches anyway. So I only gently cleaned the screen with glass cleaner (a small amount of non-ammonia cleaner should be okay). Usually I see the coating on CRT screens called an "anti glare" coating online. Sometimes "anti static". The Astro City manual doesn't specify what the coating is, but the Blast City manual does. These are two different monitors but I want to point out that the Blast City protective coating (and aluminum foil tape on corners) prevents electrification of the tube. No mention of anti glare. Anyway, I'm going to make an assumption that the coating on the Astro and Blast screens has both anti glare and anti static properties, and I certainly don't need more glare on my Astro screen so the scratched coating stays for now.
Stickers:
My 100 yen sticker is looking tired and I planned to replace it. However, after the experience with the lower billboard I decided to compare my original sticker to the two reproduction stickers that look like good quality.
This one below is from arcadeartshop and has multiple differences from the original. They're easy to spot when comparing side by side:
This next one is from gateninety and the only (very minor) differences I see is that the top green line is slightly thin and the spacing above the line is also too thin, and the "insert coin" font looks slightly too thin and/or the letter spacing is off:
I'm sure I would be happy with either of these stickers. But now that I've seen these differences I don't feel like buying either. So I'm staying with my worn out original sticker for now. Which doesn't look so bad the more I get used to it.
I bought key screw stickers from gateninety along with a few other slick accessories. I preserved two key screw stickers during my painting with masking tape. But the sticker on the service door was already removed before I received the cabinet. I haven't decided if I want to put the new sticker on the service door. The font on the sticker is almost indistinguishable from the original but these new stickers are extremely reflective and might look funny if I put one on the service door and leave the other two as original. I could replace them all. Haven't decided.
Stools:
My Taito 43cm stools arrived with water and rust spots, plus a little damage. Bummer. I was looking forward to something new and in perfect condition but again needed to pull out the Barkeeper's Friend. Anyway, these are great stools. Look super sharp and are comfy.
I'm a little disappointed that a Taito logo is nowhere to be found on these. No identification at all. For the price I paid I want a Taito stamp somewhere to show people how hype my arcade gear is.
Touch Up Paint:
The paint on the sides, front panel (entire top half), and area above the rear access panel/back lid (where the stickers are) is still original paint. I didn't spray those areas. This means I can keep all the original stickers but also means a lot of chips and scratches left in the old paint that needed to be addressed. I used Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint Honda Frost White NH538 to fill in all the damaged areas. I've always had trouble using these and the results are not so great. I'll be the first to say that my touch up work in some spots is total amateur hour and it looks awful. But I only notice it when I look for it, and when I see it, it doesn't bother me.
For some very small scratches I sprayed paint from a can onto aluminum foil, then used the end of a cotton swab with the cotton cut off to dab the paint into the scratch. I think this is easier to work with then the Dupli-color Scratch Fix. I saw some special tool that car detailers use to fill in rock chips so that is another option for extra precision. For larger areas, unfortunately those needed to be brushed and it's hard to make it look perfect, even with thin, light coats. The Scratch Fix also has a pen that is meant to fill long scratches but I find it difficult to control the paint flow. And if too much paint is put on, it's hard to spread it out with the pen to make it flat.
The monitor mask could use all new paint but I left it alone and only filled some deep scratches with Dupli-Color Scratch Fix universal black. When the light hits it a certain way all the imperfections stand out and it looks bad but it's not bothering me. Since the monitor mask is painted plastic I'm not sure if plastic polish is the best or proper product to use. I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish to remove light imperfections and add gloss. The paint is very fragile and came off easily so I applied the polish lightly.
Screen coating:
The monitor screen is covered with scratches (plus a healthy dose of burn in). Some scratches are pretty bad. I know it's common to peel or rub off the coating on CRT monitors when they are scratched but I don't want to do that. While playing a game I barely notice the scratches anyway. So I only gently cleaned the screen with glass cleaner (a small amount of non-ammonia cleaner should be okay). Usually I see the coating on CRT screens called an "anti glare" coating online. Sometimes "anti static". The Astro City manual doesn't specify what the coating is, but the Blast City manual does. These are two different monitors but I want to point out that the Blast City protective coating (and aluminum foil tape on corners) prevents electrification of the tube. No mention of anti glare. Anyway, I'm going to make an assumption that the coating on the Astro and Blast screens has both anti glare and anti static properties, and I certainly don't need more glare on my Astro screen so the scratched coating stays for now.
Stickers:
My 100 yen sticker is looking tired and I planned to replace it. However, after the experience with the lower billboard I decided to compare my original sticker to the two reproduction stickers that look like good quality.
This one below is from arcadeartshop and has multiple differences from the original. They're easy to spot when comparing side by side:
This next one is from gateninety and the only (very minor) differences I see is that the top green line is slightly thin and the spacing above the line is also too thin, and the "insert coin" font looks slightly too thin and/or the letter spacing is off:
I'm sure I would be happy with either of these stickers. But now that I've seen these differences I don't feel like buying either. So I'm staying with my worn out original sticker for now. Which doesn't look so bad the more I get used to it.
I bought key screw stickers from gateninety along with a few other slick accessories. I preserved two key screw stickers during my painting with masking tape. But the sticker on the service door was already removed before I received the cabinet. I haven't decided if I want to put the new sticker on the service door. The font on the sticker is almost indistinguishable from the original but these new stickers are extremely reflective and might look funny if I put one on the service door and leave the other two as original. I could replace them all. Haven't decided.
Stools:
My Taito 43cm stools arrived with water and rust spots, plus a little damage. Bummer. I was looking forward to something new and in perfect condition but again needed to pull out the Barkeeper's Friend. Anyway, these are great stools. Look super sharp and are comfy.
I'm a little disappointed that a Taito logo is nowhere to be found on these. No identification at all. For the price I paid I want a Taito stamp somewhere to show people how hype my arcade gear is.
Here's a genuine NOS SEGA 100 Yen sticker:
https://www.arcadeinvaders.com/en/others/476-astro-denomination-sticker-100-yen.html
Expensive, but definitely legit.
https://www.arcadeinvaders.com/en/others/476-astro-denomination-sticker-100-yen.html
Expensive, but definitely legit.
Picture adjustments:
Monitor calibration can be as complicated or as simple as you want. I like to spend some time tuning to make the image quality as best I can without getting too extreme about it. Here's what I did:
I first turned down the Screen knob on the flyback just a tiny bit for the reason I stated in an earlier post. I still get some noise when powering on the cabinet that fades after a minute or less. I don't know if it's the flyback squealing or some other component but I do know that increasing the Screen value increases the noise. So I want to keep it low. I think it's best to make other adjustments first before boosting the Screen knob. And I think higher brightness or contrast on a CRT monitor can lessen the life of the tube. Maybe.
I then adjusted the geometry as best as I could. V.LIN is in a very inconvenient place and almost inaccessible with the cabinet fully assembled. But it is possible to squeeze your arm back there. There is some danger involved. A plastic screwdriver is a good idea. My test grid was looking better after the V.LIN adjustment but still needs more tweaks. Unfortunately this monitor doesn't have enough fine tuning options to improve the geometry any further. Which is okay because I could spend all day making little adjustments and not really improve anything if there were more tuning options.
Final setting:
Next, the colors. I first set Bright so that the background was deep black and the boxes under the 1 column were barely visible. Then I adjusted Gain for each color so that the gradation on the white row was dark grey to bright white with no tint of any color. Also while doing this I made sure that the boxes under the 1 column remained barely visible, just slightly above black, and the boxes under columns E and F remained distinguishable as separate shades. I adjusted the Bright knob as needed. I wasn't able to achieve the desired setting for red so I had to return to the back panel again. R-Bias is in an even more difficult spot than V.LIN. I wonder if these potentiometers are supposed to be accessible with the chassis installed in the cabinet. With a lot of difficulty and risk of electric shock I increased R-Bias, plus G-Bias and B-Bias a little, then returned to the front to set the Gains and Bright again. The SS.SW switch stayed in the A position.
These CPS2 calibration screens look familiar. That's because they are used in the 240p test suite software: http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=240p_test_suite
If you aren't familiar with screen calibration this webpage is a great resource (the software is great too).
Monitor calibration can be as complicated or as simple as you want. I like to spend some time tuning to make the image quality as best I can without getting too extreme about it. Here's what I did:
I first turned down the Screen knob on the flyback just a tiny bit for the reason I stated in an earlier post. I still get some noise when powering on the cabinet that fades after a minute or less. I don't know if it's the flyback squealing or some other component but I do know that increasing the Screen value increases the noise. So I want to keep it low. I think it's best to make other adjustments first before boosting the Screen knob. And I think higher brightness or contrast on a CRT monitor can lessen the life of the tube. Maybe.
I then adjusted the geometry as best as I could. V.LIN is in a very inconvenient place and almost inaccessible with the cabinet fully assembled. But it is possible to squeeze your arm back there. There is some danger involved. A plastic screwdriver is a good idea. My test grid was looking better after the V.LIN adjustment but still needs more tweaks. Unfortunately this monitor doesn't have enough fine tuning options to improve the geometry any further. Which is okay because I could spend all day making little adjustments and not really improve anything if there were more tuning options.
Final setting:
Next, the colors. I first set Bright so that the background was deep black and the boxes under the 1 column were barely visible. Then I adjusted Gain for each color so that the gradation on the white row was dark grey to bright white with no tint of any color. Also while doing this I made sure that the boxes under the 1 column remained barely visible, just slightly above black, and the boxes under columns E and F remained distinguishable as separate shades. I adjusted the Bright knob as needed. I wasn't able to achieve the desired setting for red so I had to return to the back panel again. R-Bias is in an even more difficult spot than V.LIN. I wonder if these potentiometers are supposed to be accessible with the chassis installed in the cabinet. With a lot of difficulty and risk of electric shock I increased R-Bias, plus G-Bias and B-Bias a little, then returned to the front to set the Gains and Bright again. The SS.SW switch stayed in the A position.
These CPS2 calibration screens look familiar. That's because they are used in the 240p test suite software: http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=240p_test_suite
If you aren't familiar with screen calibration this webpage is a great resource (the software is great too).
It's weird to me how people mess this stuff up so badly. I mean, it's really not that hard to do it right. It's a simple design, there aren't that many details to pay attention to.
These are some stickers I made for my arcade's brand, just for fun. Even with the text change I bet they're more accurate to the original than either repro you showed lol.
I agree. It is weird. I sent a friendly note to arcadeartshop about the design. Maybe it will get updated one day. The stickers look nice otherwise.
Thanks for the TIP. Actually I was worried that I messed up after the Vinegar phase.
Some parts still developed a rust patina afterwards, even after a 2nd soak.
I might try Chemical Guy's polish afterwards. And by the way, beautiful Astro!
