IIRC they're all 10K ohm'd like the exact resistance value for those resistors to be honest
IIRC they're all 10K ohm'd like the exact resistance value for those resistors to be honest
Ah, thanks!IIRC they're all 10K ohm
Pushing M2 thru a JAMMA is asking for trouble. Way too much current draw for this system. With the Game Bd, I/O Bd, Sound Bd all connected it will melt the JAMMA connections. I have seen people do this on Model2A, 2B and 2C also with burnt JAMMA adapters. As for Model 3, its a pig for current and you will only damage the Game Bd beyond repair starving it for current.
Also in regards to telling Ken I use a 5v 10a in my setup outside my cabinet:What is needed is a good PSU to use on all of these and adapters for such. Especially M3. I have seen many ATX setups that will not regulate and torture the Game Bd till it does. I have been recommending the Happ 44-1095-00 for these for about 5 years but recently I believe something was changed on these as they will no longer power M3.
10amps on the 5v is about half of what it really needs to run stable. Otherwise, low current will cause excessive heat on specific ICs on pcb from starvation and pop them.
Would a Mini Fit Jr connector be possible?Well, I've been thinking, and why don't I just make a board that handles the RGB, Input/Outputs, and an amplifier for the JAMMA portion and then just make universal adapter cables for power?
Like maybe AMP UP connectors that I can distribute to the power board and then just build a connector to match the PSU of the client that connects to the end of the AMP UP connector?
what "something else" are you thinking? because that looks like a classic over-draw burn to me.looks like something else happened there...
That assumes I pick the right Mini Fit Jr connectorsMini Fit Jr connectors and crimp pins are relatively easy to find and people can repurpose Lindbergh looms or use an ATX PSU.
The Sega Lindbergh PSUs are exactly that, they even have a switch for ATX and JVS modes (auto start and start on trigger pin)Is there a viable ATX solution that has adjustable pots or a mod that allows it?
Now imagine being an arcade operator where a "long session" means the unit is on from before opening to after closing.This kinda concerns me a bit to be honest as I tend to play for a long sessions when I sit down to play.
you're missing the whole point being discussed here.Lots of Japanese Arcades run the exact same harness and PSU I own and never had a problem. I do wonder if the issue that Ringo's friend had may have been influenced by voltage conversion (being that Ringo's location is the UK)? Just speculation on my part. Granted, I also use a voltage converter on mine, but I also use a Mean Well on one of them since I got one without the Sanwa PSU. All that said, I've had multiple sessions over weekends where friends and I played SpikeOut for 8+ hours (no joke), and we didn't have a single problem. Nothing melted, nothing caught fire.
I understand the level of concern here due to the power draw of these boards, plus Ken's comments, but I think as long as you're using a high-quality adjustable power supply with the correct input voltage for your region, there shouldn't be a problem.