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FS Stereo + Kick Harness Add-on Boards (Everten)

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Adding F3, STV, and GNET/ZN stock to Tindie in a few minutes. Very limited number of F3 boards.

After 4+ revisions, the MV1FZS stereo board is pretty much ready to go. I sent a few out to people for testing, pending feedback. They're free to post feedback/comments in this thread if helpful to others.

Also, for those who sign up for stock notifications on Tindie; if the board you want is restocked and sells out before you can purchase I believe you need to sign up for notifications again.
 
I was taking a break from the forums in general. *cough*drama*cough*
However I just got this (@everten MVS-stereo) in the mail yesterday/Saturday, installed today/Sunday and being totally unrelated to the above...
fHKGfSW.jpg


So the install, yes this time (ie unlike other everten adapters) you are required to solder.
mURybwk.jpg


Removing the surface mounted resistors (three in total) is the most difficult part of the job.
My advice is to keep adding solder to both sides (left/right) until you can create a bridge (either above or below) to the resistor...
Essentially heating both sides (left/right) at the same time, then simply swiping it off the PCB, going back after to clean with some wick.

Align the PCB and screw it down (using the screws you removed) pile on the solder until you see a clear bridge.
I didn't find it necessary to apply solder ahead of bridging the PCB (use whatever method is most comfortable for you).
wlliLGL.jpg


Victory!
8Z94PSp.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
jassin000 said:
I was taking a break from the forums in general. *cough*drama*cough*
However I just got this (@everten MVS-stereo) in the mail yesterday/Saturday, installed today/Sunday and being totally unrelated to the above...
fHKGfSW.jpg


So the install, yes this time (ie unlike other everten adapters) you are required to solder.
mURybwk.jpg


Removing the surface mounted resistors (three in total) is the most difficult part of the job.
My advice is to keep adding solder to both sides (left/right) until you can create a bridge (either above or below) to the resistor...
Essentially heating both sides (left/right) at the same time, then simply swiping it off the PCB, going back after to clean with some wick.

Align the PCB and screw it down, pile on the solder until you see a clear bridge.
I didn't find it necessary to apply solder ahead of bridging the PCB (use whatever method is most comfortable for you).
wlliLGL.jpg


Victory!
8Z94PSp.jpg
Click to expand...
Nicely done!

Excited to grab one when they go on sale
 
you guys need a NeoBios Masta on those boards. 😁I also installed the latest revision on my 1FZ, here’s a how it looks without a fancy acrylic case.
847F5C76-0C43-4222-A80C-4DFF4FDCF665.jpeg


It’s two parts, a top and bottom board.
One of them is soldered as aforementioned, the other screws down through the amp securing holes. A cable attaches between them. (I might look into crimping a ribbon cable for the later, to shorten the length for more of a compact connection)
There is a switch to go from Jamma audio to RCA out. Really nice to have this feature so you can still retain the original functionality of the board.
E5676B0F-ADFD-4D64-B3AE-58BA5A99138B.jpeg


Here’s the bottom board soldered in.
0367BFCA-78ED-4766-8A06-4F26AB90EB81.jpeg

Don't mind the jumper wire, I ended up ripping a pad off when I was removing the previous revision of the board.
Which is also something I wanted to mention, it’s a bitch to remove these. If for whatevet reason you needed to take this board off, I suggest using a solder sucker or Braid to take off as much of the solder, then a heat gun to heat up the rest to gently remove the pcb. It’s definitely a delicate job to remove, especially with the 1FZ pads being so fragile.

All in all this mod is worth it. Stereo sound out of a 1FZ is a dream come true.

Big thanks to @everten for letting me test out his revisions of this mod. Hopefully you all will get to enjoy this soon!
 
For clarification, there is no reason to ever remove the bottom board. Some testers had to remove it to install a newer prototype/revision. Consider the MVS stereo board installation permanent if you are not skilled and patient with de-soldering. While the installation requires little skill, removal is definitely not something the average person should be doing. I personally ripped up a pad on my board after trying so many different revisions of this on the same MVS board.

I appreciate everyone who is helping me test because they're spending time and effort (and risking hardware!) to help me get it right. I couldn't do this without the collective knowledge of AP.

If you have questions about installation go to the Tindie page and click Datasheet. This document is being updated as I receive feedback and will always be the most up-to-date source.

For those messaging or asking how to buy, please go to the Tindie page and signup for stock notifications so I know how many to build. I've given out 5 x MVS stereo boards and don't even have one for myself at this point. I ran out of parts required to build, but have a small amount on order. I expect parts to arrive in a month or two.

https://www.tindie.com/products/everten/mvs-mv1fz-stereo-board-neo-geo/
 
Are there any STV boards in stock? If not, are any restocks happening soon?
 
diosleon said:
Are there any STV boards in stock? If not, are any restocks happening soon?
Click to expand...
I may have parts for STV boards, but I’m still waiting on parts for other boards. I try to stock every board type at once so people who want multiple boards can save on shipping.

I just shipped a small batch to @djsheep to get some out to our Australian friends. That depleted the stock I was building up for Tindie.

I’ll assess my parts inventory and try to give you a better idea of timing.

Thanks for being patient!
 
Did the MVS stereo board for 1FZ get released publicly? It's been a while since I've checked but I don't recall seeing anything aside from some beta install pics.
 
BroadwayJose said:
Did the MVS stereo board for 1FZ get released publicly? It's been a while since I've checked but I don't recall seeing anything aside from some beta install pics.
Click to expand...
Not yet, another one where it's impossible to get parts for. Anything coming out of Japan or China is most likely going to major manufacturers and very little makes its way to retail distributors. I've had parts on order from JST for over 6 months now.
 
hey Everten. I have a question. I bought one of your STV stereo adapters, just regular stereo without the kick harness adapter. For some reason when I played it on my STV recently I noticed I was not getting stereo, but just regular mono....I know I followed the picture and installation, but just want to seek clarification if there was something that I am possibly doing wrong. I didn't get the CPS2 kick harness version was because I had a friend make me a stv to cps2 kick harness already so found it unnecessary to have it ya know. Thank you again~
 
kazuyajin1080 said:
hey Everten. I have a question. I bought one of your STV stereo adapters, just regular stereo without the kick harness adapter. For some reason when I played it on my STV recently I noticed I was not getting stereo, but just regular mono....I know I followed the picture and installation, but just want to seek clarification if there was something that I am possibly doing wrong. I didn't get the CPS2 kick harness version was because I had a friend make me a stv to cps2 kick harness already so found it unnecessary to have it ya know. Thank you again~
Click to expand...
Confirm the wire harness has continuity and is straight-wired as pictured below:
1651879633956.png


I've seen this happen with a failed DAC chip (TDA1386T) and fixed by replacing the chip. Since you're getting the left channel, the digital input on this chip is probably ok and the issue is on or after the DAC output. You can get this chip from a dead Sega Saturn or eBay.

Logic probe TDA1386T (datasheet available here) on the following pins:
18 - left channel output
21 - right channel output

You should be able to hear noise in additional to a hi tone on working outputs (make sure game is outputting sound when probing). If you get a simple hi tone then it could be bad.

Let me know what you find!
 
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