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Had to custom up some labels for my 16B.
Will post some pics of the completed board once I burn, and test.
These labels look awesome but they stick like crazy so I dont want to install until I know all the roms work.
@jamesv833 you know i have a set for you on your next shipment ! Hope you enjoy.
 
Had to custom up some labels for my 16B.
Will post some pics of the completed board once I burn, and test.
These labels look awesome but they stick like crazy so I dont want to install until I know all the roms work.
here she is all decked out:
 

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Hello

What options are there and that can still be acquired currently, to change games in the Multi?

LCD screen? rotary selector?

Thank you

@ShootTheCore
 
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I finally got this thing all put together, and am just getting a black screen, no audio. I have confirmed it works with the original ROM board, it has the MC68000.

I'm about to start the process of verifying/reburning ROMs, but is there anything else I can do while waiting for them?

EDIT: Well, this sucks. I put the original Aurail ROM board back on and am having the same issue. I recapped the board this morning, and tested Aurail immediately after and it worked fine.
 
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Make sure you don’t have any pins bent inwards or outwards on any of the socketed chips, including the 68000 CPU.
 
Definitely no bent pins, the 68k never left the board but I checked anyway. My first thought was the processor, but it still seems like quite the coincidence that it would die mere hours later after testing, but things happen. My plan when I get home is to check all the caps since that is something I altered, then zero in on the CPU since I'm getting power. Is there any information or guide on how to properly check CPU functionality? I'm getting into uncharted waters for my skillset but want to learn more.
 
Afaik there's no terribly useful diagnostics. I think Golden Axe has one of the better test menus, but that would require you to get at least that far. I found the multi to be pretty finnicky to seat the roms and the board itself to the main board.

Ultimately I ended up sending both of my System 16 boards out to irepairsega, and he was able to resolve a number of not obvious issues when the boards were running their original games.
 
Definitely no bent pins, the 68k never left the board but I checked anyway. My first thought was the processor, but it still seems like quite the coincidence that it would die mere hours later after testing, but things happen. My plan when I get home is to check all the caps since that is something I altered, then zero in on the CPU since I'm getting power. Is there any information or guide on how to properly check CPU functionality? I'm getting into uncharted waters for my skillset but want to learn more.

First of all, just to make sure sockets aren't the problem, I'd try removing each socketed chip, blowing the socket out with compressed air, and then reinstalling the chip again.

Also, generally speaking, make sure your DIP switches are all set off, that the board is receiving 5.0V from the power supply, and that you're using a System 16 to JAMMA adapter (System 16 isn't JAMMA).

If the board still doesn't boot after that, you can check CPU functionality with an inexpensive logic probe, such as this Elenco that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electronics-LP-560-Logic-Probe/dp/B000Z9HAP4

Once you have a logic probe, do the following:
1) With the power off, connect the positive lead of the logic probe to a 5V source on the board. Connect the negative lead of the logic probe to a Ground source on the board.
2) Set the TTL / CMOS switch on the logic probe to TTL. Set the MEM / PULSE switch to PULSE.
3) With the power on, place the probe tip against pins on the 68000 CPU and monitor the activity:

Pin 14 = Vcc = High
Pin 53 = GND = Low
Pin 15 = Clock = Pulse between High and Low
Pin 18 = Reset = Should read Low briefly at power on, then go High.
Pin 17 = Halt = Should read High at all times.
Pin 29 = A1 = Should pulse between High and Low as the CPU changes addressing on the bus.
Pin 5 = D0 = Should pulse between High and Low as the CPU reads and writes data on the bus.

If Pin 14 and Pin 53 don't read as expected, the CPU isn't getting power correctly. Check for bad caps or a short.
If Pin 15 isn't pulsing then the CPU isn't getting the clock signal it needs to operate. Check for bent pins on the CPU or damaged traces on the Clock circuit.
If Pin 18 never goes Low or is held Low all the time then the CPU isn't getting reset properly. The CPU needs to be Reset once at power on to start processing. Check the watch dog circuit.
If Pin 17 is Low then the CPU is being halted. Check for a circuit short to ground. Some games have a Halt function that can be set with a DIP switch - try setting all DIP switches off.
If Pins 29 and 5 aren't pulsing then the CPU isn't processing. Assuming everything else is in order, the CPU likely processed code for a short while, then crashed.

I made a tutorial video a while back on using a logic probe to diagnose a faulty EPROM - it's the same principle here, just with CPU signaling instead of EPROM signaling. Check out the video to see how the logic probe behaves when probing a circuit.
View: https://youtu.be/2PAtTIAijeA
 
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Got it! It was just a bad solder joint from when I recapped it. Must have just barely been hanging on because it worked when I tested after the recap. A few remaining issues:

  1. My rotary selector doesn't seem to work. It's the style with the purple leads, plugged into CN5. The assembly looks rough so I plan to check it all, but figured I'd mention it in case there is an installation step I'm unaware of
    1. who is selling the OLED selector these days? I plan to make a case for this and would rather design around that than the rotary switch
  2. I still have audio noise. I'm going to replace the pot next, but don't know the next move if that doesn't work (anyone have an item number for the pot?)
  3. Anyone selling labels? @SCUBA King did you make your own? They look great.
 
How high is the volume pot on your board? I found mine has to be up pretty high and then attenuated with an external knob (like the original Sega jamma adapter has, or an Astro City) to avoid audio noise.
 
As in how high is the audio turned up? Not much at all; it gets loud very quickly. Its barely turned from completely off, maybe 15-25*?
 
As in how high is the audio turned up? Not much at all; it gets loud very quickly. Its barely turned from completely off, maybe 15-25*?
Yeah I wanna say I have the pot on my board around 50-75% and then attenuated back down with an external volume pot. Any lower and there's a lot of noise.
 
Got it! It was just a bad solder joint from when I recapped it. Must have just barely been hanging on because it worked when I tested after the recap. A few remaining issues:

  1. My rotary selector doesn't seem to work. It's the style with the purple leads, plugged into CN5. The assembly looks rough so I plan to check it all, but figured I'd mention it in case there is an installation step I'm unaware of
    1. who is selling the OLED selector these days? I plan to make a case for this and would rather design around that than the rotary switch
  2. I still have audio noise. I'm going to replace the pot next, but don't know the next move if that doesn't work (anyone have an item number for the pot?)
  3. Anyone selling labels? @SCUBA King did you make your own? They look great.
I did make them myself. I used labels from sheetlabels.com and printed on color laser.
I had to mess with printer settings to get the toner to adhere, but once I got the right settings, it worked great. I think it had to tell it to use "transparency" settings due to the gloss on the labels.
 
I did make them myself. I used labels from sheetlabels.com and printed on color laser.
I had to mess with printer settings to get the toner to adhere, but once I got the right settings, it worked great. I think it had to tell it to use "transparency" settings due to the gloss on the labels.
I just looked back, here is what I had to do to get them to adhere with color laser:

I changed settings to glossy HP paper and it takes longer to fuse, but they looked awesome.
 
After getting this set up and and testing all games I’ve discovered that System 16 had quite a few games with unconventional controls.

1) Have any of the trackball/analog games been modded for 8-way stick support?

2) If so, is there a roll-up pack with these substituted?

3) I read somewhere that 16A roms might be modded for 16B use, any way of putting Alex Kidd or Dump Matsumoto in place of the trackball games?
 
Had issues with this kit. Shinobi, golden axe and altered beast dont work. Roms verified. All those games have black screens. Strangely i can hold down the test button and get into the test menus and run all tests as good for each game. But reentering game mode is back to a black screen.

Any tips? Ive tried a new 68kcpu and z80 with same results. This is an original altered beast mother board and it works fine on that. Why is this kit some damn finicky.
 
Had issues with this kit. Shinobi, golden axe and altered beast dont work. Roms verified. All those games have black screens. Strangely i can hold down the test button and get into the test menus and run all tests as good for each game. But reentering game mode is back to a black screen.

Any tips? Ive tried a new 68kcpu and z80 with same results. This is an original altered beast mother board and it works fine on that. Why is this kit some damn finicky.
I think there is an issue somewhere in your setup. Maybe others can suggest what to try.

The history of this kit is this:

--kit wasn't booting a few games and it was sent back to me for testing.

--after receiving his kit NO games would boot for me with known good eprom set. His eproms all tested good on my kit here.

-- decided to just swap a brand new kit to him. Kit was fully tested with his eproms and every game booted and played well.

--after receiving his new multi he still has the same issues.

If anyone else has suggestions please let us know.
 
Thanks. If it was my motherboard, why would an original altered beast rom cart work prefect and not the altered beast on the kit? I also have an eswat cart original that works fine as well. I wish more was shared how it works for troubleshooting.

With the built in scratch ram and other video tests as well as 98% of the games functioning its seems almost certainly my pcb is ok, but i guess its possible.

With the way test button needing to be held upon powerup for the games in question to even show life at least in test is weird. I did find a completely cold solder joint on the kit. Perhaps there are more.

I dont know of anyone local with a sys16 setup. Are golden axe, shinobi and altered beast sharing similiar circuit areas on the multi pcb?
 
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