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nekojeeta

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what’s the best way to remove the EPROMs to burn the games on them? They are super close to each other and can only get under one side with my tools and worried I’ll break off pins on one side - thanks
 

hatmoose

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+1 for kikaso's excellent advice - best five bucks I've ever spent on this hobby

I resisted buying one for several years, it's just a bent screwdriver, right? But now that I have one I would never go near an eprom without it.

Also Digikey and mouser if stock is a pain (spoiler alert: stock is a pain) various sizes
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wiha/27922/11585736
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wiha/26810/510546
https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wiha/26810?qs=VVKQmw408U9t5bpiLK9Png==
 

9999 Damage

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Optional: Rotary Selector Installation

<Information to be supplied here once available>

Optional: Reset wire installation:

If you are using a selector, the reset wire can be installed. This needs to be connected to the reset wire position on the selector board

oneleaf86 S16 Selector
<Photo to be added here>

I got the oneleaf86 S16 Selector from @Kavas. Thought it might be helpful to collect the bits I had to find or guess.
  • The mini PCB with the 10-pin header connects to CN5 on the Apocalypse PCB, with the Ethernet jack facing EPROM 04. It does not connect to JTAG1.
  • The reset wires connect to pins 2 and 4 in CN5 on the mainboard. Picture. It doesn't matter which wire is connected to which pin.
This is for the Frank_fjs revision, which doesn't require soldering a reset wire.
 

nekojeeta

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I have a TL866+ and bought an adapter and now need to burn my eeproms.

I’m a little confused on the settings to use and how to seat the chip in the adapter to the TL866+. Is there a guide or video somewhere?

One concern I have is that the adapter has more slots than pins on the chip.

Pic included - thanks!

C65FD651-58CE-4498-A322-0E58106F7C12.jpeg
 

ShootTheCore

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I haven't used a TL866+, but here's a few pointers:

- The chip should be aligned all the way down, closest to the lever (as per the illustration on the programmer). Don't worry about the unused rows at the end.
- The chip should be flat all the way across. You may have to bend a few of the legs slightly with your fingers or tweezers to get everything lined up so the chip seats down properly in the socket.
- The System 16 kit uses one 27C801 chip and fourteen 27C322 chips. The chip programmer software should have a button you can click on to select the chip type.
- You'll need to Load the ROM into the programmer software, Write the ROM to the chip, and then Verify that it programmed correctly.
- The 27C322 chips hold a lot of data, and the TL866+ doesn't handle them very well. It has to program them one 512kb bank at a time - it's very tedious and time consuming.
- You'll need to set the S1 switch on the adapter to 27C322 and the Bank Switch dial to 0.
- Then you'll need to split each ROM file into 8 smaller 512 kb files, set the selector dial to a corresponding bank, then Load, Write and Verify the file for each bank one at a time, incrementing the bank selector dial after each bank is programmed to the chip - banks 0 through 7. Rinse and repeat for all 14 EPROMs. 8 times 14 equals 112 files to cover all 8 banks across the 14 EPROMs.
- You can use the program GSplit to split each ROM into eight 512 kb smaller files for you.
- 27C322 EPROMs have a high failure rate when programming - somewhere between 10 and 20% in my experience - so if a bank won't Write and Verify, wipe the EPROM in an eraser then try one more time. If it fails programming the second time, throw the chip out and try another one.

FYI: I offer free EPROM programming services for just the cost of shipping, and I have a high-end programmer than can knock out those 27C322 chips very quickly without having to split up the ROM files beforehand. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you'd like me to program the EPROMs for you.
 
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mathewbeall

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- 27C322 EPROMs have a high failure rate when programming - somewhere between 10 and 20% in my experience - so if a bank won't Write and Verify, wipe the EPROM in an eraser then try one more time. If it fails programming the second time, throw the chip out and try another one.

I would echo this seems in line with my experience as well - even brand new, never written to 27C322 chips!
 

nekojeeta

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I haven't used a TL866+, but here's a few pointers:

- The chip should be aligned all the way down, closest to the lever (as per the illustration on the programmer). Don't worry about the unused rows at the end.
- The chip should be flat all the way across. You may have to bend a few of the legs slightly with your fingers or tweezers to get everything lined up so the chip seats down properly in the socket.
- The System 16 kit uses one 27C801 chip and fourteen 27C322 chips. The chip programmer software should have a button you can click on to select the chip type.
- You'll need to Load the ROM into the programmer software, Write the ROM to the chip, and then Verify that it programmed correctly.
- The 27C322 chips hold a lot of data, and the TL866+ doesn't handle them very well. It has to program them one 512kb bank at a time - it's very tedious and time consuming.
- You'll need to set the S1 switch on the adapter to 27C322 and the Bank Switch dial to 0.
- Then you'll need to split each ROM file into 8 smaller 512 kb files, set the selector dial to a corresponding bank, then Load, Write and Verify the file for each bank one at a time, incrementing the bank selector dial after each bank is programmed to the chip - banks 0 through 7. Rinse and repeat for all 14 EPROMs. 8 times 14 equals 112 files to cover all 8 banks across the 14 EPROMs.
- You can use the program GSplit to split each ROM into eight 512 kb smaller files for you.
- 27C322 EPROMs have a high failure rate when programming - somewhere between 10 and 20% in my experience - so if a bank won't Write and Verify, wipe the EPROM in an eraser then try one more time. If it fails programming the second time, throw the chip out and try another one.

FYI: I offer free EPROM programming services for just the cost of shipping, and I have a high-end programmer than can knock out those 27C322 chips very quickly without having to split up the ROM files beforehand. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you'd like me to program the EPROMs for you.

Lifesaver! Just PM’d you
 

SCUBA King

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+1 for kikaso's excellent advice - best five bucks I've ever spent on this hobby

I resisted buying one for several years, it's just a bent screwdriver, right? But now that I have one I would never go near an eprom without it.

Also Digikey and mouser if stock is a pain (spoiler alert: stock is a pain) various sizes
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wiha/27922/11585736
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wiha/26810/510546
https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wiha/26810?qs=VVKQmw408U9t5bpiLK9Png==
The Wiha is awesome for the little guys, but for Eproms, once you this, you will wonder how you ever survived without it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y8LXYCR

I buy them 4-5 at a time as everyone who uses my bench falls in love with this puller so I just give them one.
 

nekojeeta

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My video is garbled and no sound - any ideas? Confirmed board itself has no issues. Thank you
 

ShootTheCore

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Make sure you have the EPROMs in the correct sockets. Make sure the board is receiving 5.0V voltage. Does your main board have a regular Z80 sound CPU? Some boards have a custom one in a plastic case.
 

notsonic

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Is there a meaningful difference between an MC68000L12 and MC68000P12? Best I can tell is ceramic vs plastic housing.
 
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