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Troubleshooting Tips

Cheers for the reply.

"The last picture seems to show that the program is trying to boot."
If you are talking about the one with the triangle patterns, just to confirm, this is with the decrypted romset

"I would inspect the soldering on the program rom PCB and the interconnect"
I've inspected the soldering on the boards, can't spot anything fishy. I have taken close ups as clear as possible, maybe you can find something?
https://i.imgur.com/mCYJ8Dw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HkCXUil.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dEDGpga.jpg https://imgur.com/a5hM6Su.jpg
EDIT: took some pics of the underside of the boards: https://i.imgur.com/N5Nkz12.jpg https://i.imgur.com/w1nj7fu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lcP8Vle.jpg

As mentionned before I first had the interconnect inverted, but fixed it now as can see in provided pictures.

"as well as examine the sockets on the b-board for damage."
I'll have a look but the b board was working perfectly before the install.
EDIT: had a look, couldn't find any damage.

"Did you mention if you used PC or MAC to load the card?'"
I formatted FAT32 using both windows format tool and the SD formatter utility.:
https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/eula_windows/
 
Last edited:
4GB Transcend card arrived today, tested that too, Same results.
So here are all the cards I have tested with:
OuR7RgZl.jpg
 
OK. Let's do things right. Can you please post pics of your setup with the kit installed. Let's see how it looks.
@Mitsurugi-w
 
Darksoft said:
OK. Let's do things right. Can you please post pics of your setup with the kit installed. Let's see how it looks.
@Mitsurugi-w
Click to expand...
I have already posted full install and troubleshooting information as well as many detailed pictures
Porthos said:
This pin is broken?
Click to expand...
Mitsurugi-w said:
Yes it is. @Darksoft should be able to help you.
Click to expand...
Yes guys that pin is broken, as mentionned previously, while installing the kit I broke that pin. I soldered a jumper wire, tested continuity successfully, no shorts on nearby pins. so this should not be the problem.
qrWHLD5m.jpg



For calrity's sake I'll do a mega post with all up to date info and pictures so there is no confusion about what has been or hasn't been done.
If you believe I should post this in a separate thread, let me know.
Stay tuned....
 
Ok so here is the full up to date story:

Symptoms: Blank/solid screen. the programming seems successful as I can see the "Now Playing" on the LCD.

Install & troubleshooting:
Using a fully working Japanese (green) SF Zero board, Rev7
I preordered my kit from saveyourgames in May 2018 and received in late September 2018.
Not exactly sure which FW is on my kit but I assume the latest?

Installled the 4 programming wires:
I3c6BGEl.jpg

hm15jNi.jpg

I set up jumpers per Mitsu's video. jumpers 10 and 12 are still open despite cutting them deep, but Darksoft confirmed the symptoms are not related to jumpers

Using "CPS2 Roll-Up Base Pack 2018-04-26.7z". Have also tried with a decrypted romset: "OldCPS2BasePack.7z", which either gives a blank/solid screen or a triangle pattern, depending on the loaded rom:
yWVngSnm.jpg

Board had a PAL E originally, I purchased and installed a PAL G from "saveyourgames". I tried putting back the original PAL E to see if i was getting grabbled graphics, but the results were the same.

While installing the kit I broke one of the flimsy pins of the main board. I soldered a jumper wire, tested continuity successfully, no shorts on nearby pins.
I initially installed the interconnect backwards but put it back the right way after reading this thread.
N5Nkz12.jpg

I have reseated the board multiple times and ensured there's a tight fit.

I tried 4 diff SD cards : Sandisk 16gb, Samsung 32gb, Nokia 1gb, 4GB Transcend.
I formatted FAT32 using both windows format tool and the SD formatter utility.
I tried both extracting the roms directly to the card and copying the extracted roms in one copy/paste command
OuR7RgZm.jpg

I have shorted all 3 pins of EXC5 for over 10 seconds multiple times to no avail.

I have inspected the DS kit boards as well as the sockets on the Bboard for physical damage or issues but could not find anything.

Pictures:
imgur.com/zsH5p89 imgur.com/ILET3rF imgur.com/qrWHLD5 imgur.com/47x0VD4 imgur.com/I3c6BGE imgur.com/pk5jeRnimgur.com/cs2BukY imgur.com/09Etklf imgur.com/1vlk9F3 imgur.com/hm15jNi
i.imgur.com/mCYJ8Dw.jpg i.imgur.com/HkCXUil.jpg i.imgur.com/dEDGpga.jpg imgur.com/a5hM6Su.jpg
i.imgur.com/N5Nkz12.jpg i.imgur.com/w1nj7fu.jpg i.imgur.com/lcP8Vle.jpg
 
djcalle said:
Not exactly sure which FW is on my kit but I assume the latest?
Click to expand...
Yes it comes with the latest.

djcalle said:
I initially installed the interconnect backwards but put it back the right way after reading this thread.
Click to expand...
Please post a pic of the setup installed

djcalle said:
Board had a PAL E originally, I purchased and installed a PAL G from "saveyourgames". I tried putting back the original PAL E to see if i was getting grabbled graphics, but the results were the same.
Click to expand...
The problem may come also from a non working PALG. Try installing again the PAL E and see if you get it working, even with grabled graphics.

djcalle said:
I set up jumpers per Mitsu's video. jumpers 10 and 12 are still open despite cutting them deep, but Darksoft confirmed the symptoms are not related to jumpers
Click to expand...
Try cutting it for sure. I'm 99.9% sure that problem is not coming from there, but I want to discard any possible issue.
 
"Please post a pic of the setup installed"
dEDGpgam.jpg
If you need to see more, all the pictures are in my previous post (308)

"The problem may come also from a non working PALG. Try installing again the PAL E and see if you get it working, even with grabled graphics."
Yes, that is what I had done. no garbled graphics, just same symptoms, solid screen.

"Try cutting it for sure. I'm 99.9% sure that problem is not coming from there, but I want to discard any possible issue."
Ok, I'll try again, but at this stage I'm afraid of damaginf the board, I have already cut pretty deep, isn't possible that continuity is comingg from elsewhere on the board?
 
djcalle said:
isn't possible that continuity is comingg from elsewhere on the board?
Click to expand...
I doubt it.
djcalle said:
If you need to see more, all the pictures are in my previous post (308)
Click to expand...
I checked that post and I couldnt see much. Please post a picture from the sides so I can see if all pins get inside properly, etc. Also the interconnect PCB that you took a picture of, must be properly making contact on both sides with each PCB. Show a pic of the side from that one as well please.
 
When I first put together my CPS2 multi I had similar issues where I would get solid screens. I think it could have been due to not being seated fully in.

If it hasn't been said make sure all the pins and boards are pushed right in. Seems like you are putting them in excessively deep but slowly use two thumb pressure to seat it till it stops.
 
The Spaniard said:
When I first put together my CPS2 multi I had similar issues where I would get solid screens. I think it could have been due to not being seated fully in.

If it hasn't been said make sure all the pins and boards are pushed right in. Seems like you are putting them in excessively deep but slowly use two thumb pressure to seat it till it stops.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate.
I tried pushing way harder, I think It may have gotten in just a little further.
Man installing this kit is so not intuitive...

anyway, we might have progress, I now get this kind of pattern with encrypted roms, which i never had before.
B79Rk8Rl.jpg
 
Can you send pics from the side. I can't see the small interconnect PCB when it's attached to the bigger PCB of the kit.
 
And....there seems to be your problem. I hope I'm right.
The left side seems to be not fully inserted. Pull up from the right side a little if you need to.
 
Darksoft said:
And....there seems to be your problem. I hope I'm right.
The left side seems to be not fully inserted. Pull up from the right side a little if you need to.
Click to expand...
yeah, i know the left board side looks not fully in, but i pressed so hard already, using a credit card on the solder points to not puncture my fingers...I will try again but not sure how to apply more force without damaginng the board
 
if you think it's fully in, then try pulling a little bit the right side. If you have a meter check for continuity. A screen like the one you get it means that the CPS2 is not executing any code or wrong code. PAL/GAL seems not to be an issue and you confirmed that you discharged the EXC5. You can see the Now loading which means that the kit is loading properly the content to the flashes, so problem must be either in the kit itself or the installation.
Maybe a shortcut nearby the points where you installed the cables? A solder drop somewhere? Kits are extensively tested following a procedure before being shipped, so I'm 100% confident that it left working.
 
Ah that rings a bell, might have been what sorted out my issues.

Take it off and push it down evenly until it stops on both sides. I don't think you need to go that hard to puncture your fingers but some force is required.

Hopefully that fixes your issues.
 
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