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UD-USB Decoders

Dear Undamed,

May I please kindly ask if the Place to buy the DB15 USB Adapter is through Paradise Arcade Shop ?

Kind Regards
 
so, I'm just sanity checking here since the user guide hasn't updated yet to reference the new 20 pin header and I'm brand new to this stuff.

This is an alternative to the screw terminals and would lead to the jamma harness?

Or would this take input from a controller rigged for 20 pin and pass thru to the board, instead of usb, so you could swap out?
 
Robodevil said:
so, I'm just sanity checking here since the user guide hasn't updated yet to reference the new 20 pin header and I'm brand new to this stuff.

This is an alternative to the screw terminals and would lead to the jamma harness?

Or would this take input from a controller rigged for 20 pin and pass thru to the board, instead of usb, so you could swap out?
Click to expand...
All the functions of the new 20 pin header are labeled on the PCB (both top and bottom). You'll notice that they are the same function as the screw terminals. It's just another way for people to hook things up. It actually follows the same pinout as Brook's UFB 20 pin header.

BMXer3s said:
These decoders are the friggin' best. Thank you so much!!!!
Click to expand...
Glad you got your setup going! Good times ahead! :D
-ud
 
undamned said:
All the functions of the new 20 pin header are labeled on the PCB (both top and bottom). You'll notice that they are the same function as the screw terminals. It's just another way for people to hook things up. It actually follows the same pinout as Brook's UFB 20 pin header.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's what I figured, but since I was seeing the pre-wired headers all terminate with the female quick disconnects for buttons and sticks I was worried I was missing something.
 
I was wondering if there are currently any issues with the brooks universal PCB or the MC Cthulhu and the decoder?

I seem to have an issue where to re assign the buttons does not work. This is being used on the HAS.

To head off a few things,

Updated to latest version of FW 1.4C

Held 3 buttons down to get into reprogram mode, plug in stick, decoder flashes green.
Hit P1 P2 P3
K1 K2 K3

Decoder stops flashing.

On both those sticks I have K2 and K3 swapped and cant seem to reprogram it.

Have I missed something?
 
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@undamned: Hope you will be able to get me some pointers to get my UD USB Decoder (15 Pin D-Sub version) going again.

Have been using it with a MAK Stike Supergun without any issues, but all of the sudden without any changes to my setup, the Led indicator is flashing Red (immediately when plugging it into the 15 Pin connector, with- or without a controller attached to USB). Because the manual is indicating USB Power problem for this state, I've opened- and measured the voltage (Pin1-8), which is a nice- and clean 5V. Tried to perform the Firmware Update Procedure (Firmware v.1.4c beta from May 2018), and have been successful doing so without any issues, but the problem remains.

Clueless on what I can / should do to further analyse the issue at hand. Is my decoder damaged? Would appreciate some pointers to further analyse / troubleshoot before concluding this is beyond repair.

Thanks in advance for your time- and reply.
 
The Spaniard said:
This is being used on the HAS.
Click to expand...
HAS has it's own programmable mapping, too. No sense in programming both, just program the HAS, which holds the mapping after power gone.

@Ahoud, do you recall how long ago you purchased the decoder? There are 2 hardware revisions of the DB15 decoder. The later version has changes specifically to combat them being damaged by the MAK Strike (big voltage spike at power up).
-ud
 
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undamned said:
do you recall how long ago you purchased the decoder? There are 2 hardware revisions of the DB15 decoder. The later version has changes specifically to combat them being damaged by the MAK Strike (big voltage spike at power up).
Click to expand...
Quickly looked it up; packing slip from Paradise Arcade is dated 11/05/2015.
 
undamned said:
HAS has it's own programmable mapping, too. No sense in programming both, just program the HAS, which holds the mapping after power gone.
Click to expand...
I am only trying to program the decoders. If programmed on the HAS they need to be reset each time a stick is changed. Not good for tourneys or multiple users swapping in and out.

Either way HAS activation is start plus one button so I don't understand why this is not programming as normal on the decoder? I would imagine I could do it on either HAS or the decoder and set via my preferred method.
 
The Spaniard said:
undamned said:
HAS has it's own programmable mapping, too. No sense in programming both, just program the HAS, which holds the mapping after power gone.
Click to expand...
I am only trying to program the decoders. If programmed on the HAS they need to be reset each time a stick is changed. Not good for tourneys or multiple users swapping in and out.
Either way HAS activation is start plus one button so I don't understand why this is not programming as normal on the decoder? I would imagine I could do it on either HAS or the decoder and set via my preferred method.
Click to expand...
Ok, then change the mapping on the HAS once so that after you've done mapping on the Decoders, it works right (to fix your K2/K3 problem).
-ud
 
The Spaniard said:
undamned said:
HAS has it's own programmable mapping, too. No sense in programming both, just program the HAS, which holds the mapping after power gone.
Click to expand...
I am only trying to program the decoders. If programmed on the HAS they need to be reset each time a stick is changed. Not good for tourneys or multiple users swapping in and out.
Either way HAS activation is start plus one button so I don't understand why this is not programming as normal on the decoder? I would imagine I could do it on either HAS or the decoder and set via my preferred method.
Click to expand...
It's actualy start + two buttons to change the button layout. Start + one button is for autofire programming.
 
RGB said:
It's actualy start + two buttons to change the button layout. Start + one button is for autofire programming.
Click to expand...
Yep, I was going off memory from reading the manual at first.

Managed to get it to work, basically you need to "sync" the HAS button output with the decoder and then you can reprogram how you like.

@RGB The button remapping is a bit tedious having to push a button 6 times to get it to remap to button 6. The 123456 sequentially is a much easier and less time consuming option. :)
 
The Spaniard said:
@RGB The button remapping is a bit tedious having to push a button 6 times to get it to remap to button 6. The 123456 sequentially is a much easier and less time consuming option. :)
Click to expand...
Yes and no, depends on how you look at it. That's exactly 21 presses to set all 6 buttons, but you don't always need that many. The system also gives you the ability to create button clones, which is handy in games where you want two "A" buttons, a vanilla button "A" and button "A" with rapid fire. Also, 21 presses is like nothing when you compare it to the number of times you press buttons during the actual gameplay.
 
RGB said:
Yes and no, depends on how you look at it. That's exactly 21 presses to set all 6 buttons, but you don't always need that many. The system also gives you the ability to create button clones, which is handy in games where you want two "A" buttons, a vanilla button "A" and button "A" with rapid fire. Also, 21 presses is like nothing when you compare it to the number of times you press buttons during the actual gameplay.
Click to expand...
Yep when I was doing it I realised that you can clone buttons and have multiple of the same button should you wish. After your comment it seems this is an option that you wanted to be available.

I was finding that I was maybe remapping too slowly or two quickly and was getting clones of buttons. I guess it was something I needed to get used to.

Either way the HAS is a great device and so is the UD decoders. :thumbup:
 
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I'd also like one or two of the USB version, feel free to poke me whenever it's available :D
 
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