I used that on my Astro City:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-astro-city-restored.18550/post-293981
Color match is acceptable.
- Thread starter Thomas
- Start date
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-astro-city-restored.18550/post-293981
Color match is acceptable.
Hackcell
Grand Master
as I can't find a paint center here in Costa Rica capable to match the colour, I was thinking to buy the paint online.
will this work?
https://expresspaint.com/products/f...nda-acura-honda-nh-538?variant=31798998958158
will this work?
https://expresspaint.com/products/f...nda-acura-honda-nh-538?variant=31798998958158
Last edited:
Yes, it's the same as the Dupli-Color scratch fix paint.
Hackcell
Grand Master
Both sides under the control panel base were cracked:
Applied Bondo filler then sprayed with paint to seal it:
I put some white paint on the front to cover the crack. It's not a very visible area but I might try to make it look better later.
For the rust, and there was a lot, I soaked the metal pieces in vinegar for a few days:
I've learned that soaking in vinegar and then rinsing isn't enough. To prevent "flash rust", something I'd never heard of until recently, I should have rinsed the parts in baking soda to neutralize the vinegar, then rinsed in hot water, then dried immediately. I didn't do this step but I did do the next step below which is much more important.
After removing the rust I sprayed everything with either CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor or CRC 3-36:
The Heavy Duty Inhibitor has a strong smell that lingers for weeks and it stays a little bit tacky. It also gives the metal an amber color. Other than that I think it will work well. The 3-36 I'm not too sure about. I saw a video where someone tested it outside and the results were good so I guess I don't need to worry.
isn't it pure vinegar too aggressive with the metal? for how long did you leave it?
Yes, it's aggressive and will take off all the rust and plating. Takes about 2 days of soaking. I recommend not using the CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. It stays slightly tacky even after curing. Check my Net City thread for a better product that I found. Or pay to have the metal pieces re-plated. Or if you're feeling adventurous you can try a re-plating kit to use at home. Or if the rust isn't bad the best solution is to ignore it.
Hackcell
Grand Master
mind to share the link of the net city thread?
I've been working on them for a year and a half... I'm very slow.
They are my favorite's as well. The seller had exactly what I wanted to buy.
I want to say I don't worry about it, but the truth is I'm afraid of other people touching it. Even more so with the Astro City. Every time someone plays on my Astro I think about how they might scuff the doors with their shoes or scratch the control panel with their watch. I'm trying to get over it.
I would say if you could bring it back from its terrible condition, a touch up down the road should be a walk in the park..
Hackcell
Grand Master
The cab I love the most is the Swing. However, I wouldn't complain at all if I can get an Astro or a Blast
mike hancho
Student
hi! I have so many questions!! are you still using this setup?The original volume control is a 100 ohm linear rheostat and that won't work for the new sound system. I replaced it with a 25K ohm logarithmic potentiometer.
The reason the potentiometer wires are removed and separated from the AMP UP connector is because I was getting a lot of hum and buzz noise. I can eliminate the noise by not grounding the potentiometer and line converter but then I get an oscillating noise. So either one or both needs to be grounded. I was able to minimize, but not completely eliminate, the buzzing noise by routing the potentiometer wires away from the AC wires that go to the front power switch. I also needed to add electrical tape around the potentiometer and mounting hole to prevent contact with the monitor frame which was also causing buzz/hum. And lastly I switched from a 50k potentiometer to a 25k for additional noise reduction. I could put the potentiometer down by the amplifier and away from the monitor to eliminate the noise but I like having it in the original position under the control panel. The noise isn't too bad and really only noticeable when game music is silent.
I used AMP UP 3 pin connectors to route the potentiometer wires separately:
The original knob fits over the new potentiometer (needed to file the inside slightly). Electrical tape was added to prevent the potentiometer from touching the metal frame that is not earth grounded and is connected to the monitor:
Routed the wires over the terminal board to keep them away from the power wires as much as possible:
And here's how it all looks:
Yes, still using
mike hancho
Student
What Amp are you using? Did you ever try to just replace the blast city power supply with a different psu and keep current amp.
