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The CR7000, if one ever goes up for sale, will cost you slightly more than half the cost of your candy cab. After watching a highly respected KLOV monitor tech 'Buffet' demo the B&K 467, I picked one up with all adapters for ~$60 shipped. It even came with a universal adapter. Works great and is inexpensive. Check out Buffet's video where he simplifies the process for users and you can see the merits of this rejuvenator for yourself.
you can't go wrong with B&K 467 and all the info that is out there... it's easy to use .

I also had the same problem with my aero city monitor, so I feel you pain.
 
You need to adjust your chassis for your particular monitor. What looks good on one tube may not look good on another, but it doesn't mean the tube is bad. Are you following the adjustment procedure correctly? It looks like the cutoffs aren't right. Arcade Buffett has a YouTube video. I'm no repair expert but I have spent hours on several of my games and this looks like textbook adjustment issue or the condition of the caps aren't working for your tube but may work on your friend's (different tube condition). Sorry for playing devil's advocate but I think there's still hope!
 
I don't believe it's the chassis based on Roger's test.
I am very suspicious of the pots on the neckboard however.
 
I have a 26'' sega nanao monitor, changed the flyback and re caped it... and still the green would bleed.
I adjusted it and still nothing... then got the B&K and did a clean restore and it's like I have a new monitor.
 
I would re-cap it and replace all pots before suspecting the tube.
Meh.. I'm not a big supporter of just going ahead and replace caps if there's no indication. If it ain't broken don't try to fix it. Mind you.. I base this on all the CRT horror stories I read on the various forums.
 
Go on your neckboard and swap the pots for red and green around to eliminate that as the problem.
 
Hey, when your buddy tested your monitor chassis, did you include the remote board as well?
 
The CR7000, if one ever goes up for sale, will cost you slightly more than half the cost of your candy cab. After watching a highly respected KLOV monitor tech 'Buffet' demo the B&K 467, I picked one up with all adapters for ~$60 shipped. It even came with a universal adapter. Works great and is inexpensive. Check out Buffet's video where he simplifies the process for users and you can see the merits of this rejuvenator for yourself.
Thanks for the link, this will be very helpful when I get my rejuvenator.
Have you made any progress with your CRT issues?
I just bought a B&K467 from ebay today, got it for $130 so I will keep ya updated. I have 7 candy cabs so I think this will be useful for future repair. I know that this is a last resort move cause it could damage my tube with multiple uses. I will update with pics soon, I should get this 467 by next week or so.
 
Ok so the BK467 came in today but I am confused on the adapters, I looked up my monitors serial and it turns out that I need the 23 adapter but can't seem to find one online or eBay. I do see some pics online of it or maybe I'm wrong but some pics have the #3 on the adapter. Now is this the right one? Ive tried plugging it in but it doesn't seem to fit. Can someone lead me to where I can find one?

Tube# A68KJU96X

BK467.jpg
adapters.jpg
 
Update:

So I bought the universal adapter but it was tricky connecting it to the tube one of the connecters didn't really seem to make contact with one of the pins on the gun. But I found a guy on Klov who makes the adapters and got one from him. This adapter just slid in perfectly.

When I first used the Universal adapter I got a low reading on all 3 colors, I researched online and looked at a few videos on how to correctly test and rejuvenate the tube. I first started off with a clean and balance which is the lowest and safest way to clean your tube. Nothing really changed so I switched it to the rejuvenate option, after I did that It gave me no reading at all in the test mode. I left it alone for a few days and got the new adapter from Klov which correctly fit on the neck.

I wouldn't recommend getting the Universal adapter, first its $80 bucks and second it doesn't slide in, rather its small hooks that hook onto each pin, maybe I must have had it hooked on a wrong pin, not sure. I used a diagram that I found online to see what connected where but maybe I did it wrong.

After receiving my new adapter I did the test again and still got zero reading from the needles. I wasn't sure if my rejuvenator was fucked or if the monitor was just dead. So I decided to test out my Neo29's tube, did the same setup and test and I got good reading on the tube. So that means it must have been on its last legs and I killed the monitor.

I also noticed when I did the test on my neo29 I would get a red glow on the neck and I wasn't even getting that on my NAC tube.

So that sucks, now how do I go by getting a similar tube that will work with my chassis?

The NAC tube I have is a Toshiba 29" A68KJU96X and my chassis is a Nanao MS9.
:(
 
Before you trash the tube test it with the chassis.
 
I have a Nanao MS8 in an American woody; its tube tested dead like yours but still looks acceptable after a cap kit. And replace pots like I said before. It's cheap to do and you want to be absolutely sure before replacing the tube.

If the tube really is done, sell the chassis and find a replacement tube with chassis. It'll be an aftermarket tri-sync. They're out there but it may take some time to find semi-locally. Worst case is you'll need to buy a whole game that has one and part it out. (remember that the 29" designation is actually 27" in the US)

Another option is find a 27" TV (with curved glass, not flat) with component video, de-case it, and use Mike Moffitt's NeoVGA which supports component video for MVS and CPS2. Looks fantastic.
 
Before you trash the tube test it with the chassis.
I did, still no picture and no neck glow. I do hear the game though.
I have a Nanao MS8 in an American woody; its tube tested dead like yours but still looks acceptable after a cap kit. And replace pots like I said before. It's cheap to do and you want to be absolutely sure before replacing the tube.

If the tube really is done, sell the chassis and find a replacement tube with chassis. It'll be an aftermarket tri-sync. They're out there but it may take some time to find semi-locally. Worst case is you'll need to buy a whole game that has one and part it out. (remember that the 29" designation is actually 27" in the US)

Another option is find a 27" TV (with curved glass, not flat) with component video, de-case it, and use Mike Moffitt's NeoVGA which supports component video for MVS and CPS2. Looks fantastic.
Well the tube is dead for sure, a cap kit was done to the chassis a year before. Thanks for the info on the tube sizes. I did send out an email to a local arcade group here in seattle, might be able to find something here locally, fingers crossed.

Anybody try Ken from the game room? I was thinking about emailing him to see if he had a tube he could sell me. I bought my neo25 from him a few years back.
 
Sucks dude, check with Ken. Also, check with KC, he might have some tubes in his warehouse. There was another arcade place on the west coast that had a lot of tubes, obviously they used them for their restoration projects, but they might sell ya a tube. I have to see if I remember where I read about them.
 
did you check make sure the neck part was flush in all the way?

and do you see any hair line cracks on the plastic piece that is mounted on the neck ?
 
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