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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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Took the chassis and neckboard out for a cleaning. But I don't see anything suspect on either PCB. Even with the magnifying lamp.

Put it back in hoping maybe it was dirty connectors getting a bad connection or something, but no luck. Not getting neck glow anymore either.
 
radiantsvgun said:
I am going to try, it’s tough to get that psu out of there, and I’ve never done a cap list/map before.
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It's only a few screws. I have it in my house, was planning on getting around to the cap list, but got distracted by the Domy, ha.

Top PCB:
C31 - 4.7uf 250v
C52 - 2200uf 10v
C53 - 2200uf 10v
C55 - 22uf 25v
The two big guys are 180uf 400v

Middle PCB:
C107 - 390uf 250wv
C108 - 390uf 250wv
C151 - 3.3uf 400v
C507 - 22uf 25v
C505 - 2700uf 10v
C506 - 2700uf 10v
C508 -2700uf 10v
C511 - 2700uf 10v

Bottom PCB:
820uf 25v (x2)
120uf 400v (x2)
4.7uf 250v
4.7uf 50v


I did not do the audio amp or the very rear connector PCB, just the three main power line PCB's.
 
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Haha nice, I just finished mine. My psu reeks, oddly the caps are fine though. Changing the fan, it also smells terrible.
 
All the caps in this one look fine too. Makes me wonder where the issue is.
 
rewrite said:
All the caps in this one look fine too. Makes me wonder where the issue is.
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cant caps look fine but go bad? Because you tested it and was barely at 1. I'm curious is the power cord connected or does it detach?
Also try a step down for shits and giggles.
 
rewrite said:
All the caps in this one look fine too. Makes me wonder where the issue is.
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Might be some dry joints. I put mine back together for now, it’s almost 2am here. I am going to do a full recap eventually, and go over all the joints. I saw a few that were suspect that I reflowed while I was in there. These cabs def saw extended water damage, the smell in my psu is nuts, I have the case off so it can air out overnight. Most of tomorrow I am going to spend trying to find a way to make it neat and tidy in the cabinet along with getting the rust out of the coin box.
 
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8bitforlife said:
cant caps look fine but go bad?
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They sure can.

@radiantsvgun When I actually dismantle the PSU I'll get locations for the bottom board, and values/locations for the amp and that other PCB. I just grabbed what I could without completely disassembling it. It's a good thing the Windys are mostly plastic. If they were metal they'd probably look like the MAS cabs :(.
 
Yes for caps you need both a capacitance meter and ESR meter to compare manufacture spec. Visual inspection says nothing if it looks good, only bad if it's obviously bad (such dome top, split, etc). Since they are 20+ year at this point you are safe bet just to replace. While you have boards out it will give you chance to clean, reflow soldering, and inspect anyway.
 
This one:

BSIDE ESR02 PRO- cheap tool recommendation

It really opened my eyes. I had thought that regular, good quality brand name caps (like Nichicon or Panasonic) have at least as good ESR as something that has been in use for 20 or 25 years in a power supply circuit. Same capacitance, equal voltage rating or higher, that's all you need?

Wrong. Over the years I've actually put worse caps in than I have taken out. Oops.
 
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nem said:
Remember to replace with low ESR caps as they're switched-mode PSUs.
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Industry typically refers to these as low impedance, high frequency, long life for their series. Some will actually say "For switching PSUs". You can also cross reference the existing caps to get the newer series equivalents as well.

Personally, most of these cabs being 20+ yrs old, PSUs and amps, I replace everything as OPs rarely did this. I also use dial calipers to get equivalent package sizes and lead widths.

With sound amps, I also check Cap series, as good designs use better quality audio capacitors.

May sound silly, but its just my method. Some just grab all ESRs and go, sometimes getting the wrong package sizes...
 
Yaton parted out at least one of the remaining Q25s:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589986401, front door
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312423951390, coin box
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589984353, left and right sides
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589980720, monitor surround
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589920844, surround outer frame
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589970712, outer frame support
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312424108697, monitor supports
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312424094453, lower CP enclosure
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312423934384, upper CP enclosure

Humbug, I wish I had known he still had two cabs when I made my offer.
 
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nem said:
Yaton parted out at least one of the remaining Q25s:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123590011207, coin box
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589986401, front door
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312423951390, front drawer
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589984353, left and right sides
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589980720, monitor surround
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589920844, surround outer frame
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123589970712, outer frame support
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312424108697, monitor supports
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312424094453, lower CP enclosure
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312423934384, upper CP enclosure

Humbug, I wish I had known he still had two cabs when I made my offer.
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First link is not a Q25 coin box. "Front Drawer" is the Q25 coin box.
 
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