Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Nice! I'd check for cold/cracked joints next. Something might have gotten loose in shipping.
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
I'm on it! Just need to take it out first.
Left it on, went to the other room, came back and I had a picture!
Adjusted down the brightness and contrast, went to the other room to grab my phone to take a pic, and it's out again. Definitely a bad solder joint somewhere.
Will get some Simple Green tomorrow and get to the bottom of this.
Adjusted down the brightness and contrast, went to the other room to grab my phone to take a pic, and it's out again. Definitely a bad solder joint somewhere.
Will get some Simple Green tomorrow and get to the bottom of this.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
The only thing I've seen so far that's loose is Yatons definition of "tested working".
Waka waka waka
anyone that got a windy2 marquee holder with the blue insert could you ether scan it at high rez or maybe do trade for the yellow one?
I can help dispose of that if you end up with another NNC, no problem!Finally got my birdie home. Interestingly enough, Donkey Kong has to be cast aside to put it where I want; 1st world problems.
Good news! You're 2nd in line bud. But I think Donkey Kong is going to be buried with me. Picking it up almost took me to the grave, twice. Honestly, I don't even play it that much. But it can't be beat in the nerd cred arena and has actually gotten me laid once.
Took the chassis and neckboard out for a cleaning. But I don't see anything suspect on either PCB. Even with the magnifying lamp.
Put it back in hoping maybe it was dirty connectors getting a bad connection or something, but no luck. Not getting neck glow anymore either.
Put it back in hoping maybe it was dirty connectors getting a bad connection or something, but no luck. Not getting neck glow anymore either.
has anyone started working on a cap list for windy2 psu?
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
I am going to try, it’s tough to get that psu out of there, and I’ve never done a cap list/map before.
me ether. I wish I could help though but my cab in la
It's only a few screws. I have it in my house, was planning on getting around to the cap list, but got distracted by the Domy, ha.
Top PCB:
C31 - 4.7uf 250v
C52 - 2200uf 10v
C53 - 2200uf 10v
C55 - 22uf 25v
The two big guys are 180uf 400v
Middle PCB:
C107 - 390uf 250wv
C108 - 390uf 250wv
C151 - 3.3uf 400v
C507 - 22uf 25v
C505 - 2700uf 10v
C506 - 2700uf 10v
C508 -2700uf 10v
C511 - 2700uf 10v
Bottom PCB:
820uf 25v (x2)
120uf 400v (x2)
4.7uf 250v
4.7uf 50v
I did not do the audio amp or the very rear connector PCB, just the three main power line PCB's.
Last edited:
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Haha nice, I just finished mine. My psu reeks, oddly the caps are fine though. Changing the fan, it also smells terrible.
cant caps look fine but go bad? Because you tested it and was barely at 1. I'm curious is the power cord connected or does it detach?
Also try a step down for shits and giggles.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Might be some dry joints. I put mine back together for now, it’s almost 2am here. I am going to do a full recap eventually, and go over all the joints. I saw a few that were suspect that I reflowed while I was in there. These cabs def saw extended water damage, the smell in my psu is nuts, I have the case off so it can air out overnight. Most of tomorrow I am going to spend trying to find a way to make it neat and tidy in the cabinet along with getting the rust out of the coin box.
Last edited:
They sure can.
@radiantsvgun When I actually dismantle the PSU I'll get locations for the bottom board, and values/locations for the amp and that other PCB. I just grabbed what I could without completely disassembling it. It's a good thing the Windys are mostly plastic. If they were metal they'd probably look like the MAS cabs
.Yes for caps you need both a capacitance meter and ESR meter to compare manufacture spec. Visual inspection says nothing if it looks good, only bad if it's obviously bad (such dome top, split, etc). Since they are 20+ year at this point you are safe bet just to replace. While you have boards out it will give you chance to clean, reflow soldering, and inspect anyway.
