FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

[kuze]

The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.

 

[Hatsune Mike]

I expect you can pair an MS-293x chassis to the Windy 2 tube, at least?

really is about yoke setting. Mostly horz inductance. Either way would be easy with yoke swap anyway if you have. if you don't yoke swap here are your values from my read:
Toshiba A68LBT696x (...with stock pair with yoke for Nanao ms2931 aka "blast city")
V - 6.6Ohm 16.0 mh
H - 0.5 ohm 0.19mh

Toshiba A68kzn696x (with stock pair with yoke for toshiba pb7534-1 aka windy 2)
V- 4.7ohm 11.2 mh
H - 0.6ohm 0.22mh

As a rule of thumb, the horizontal circuit is generally the more sensitive one. On nearly all monitors, the horizontal oscillation is part of the power supply as well. In the case of the 293x, I'm not sure that is the case. Either way, the horizontal values look very close, so I'll bet there won't be any yoke compatibility problems. I'm willing to bet the vertical is close enough where it is not a problem either.

Do you have a recommended portable LCR meter? It would be nice to measure everything and get a good idea of the acceptable ranges for these various common chassis.

 

[kuze]

Here's the LCR meter I purchased for this purpose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071WNNYQT

 

[RealMFnG]

My Windy II chassis is at PnL Video. Might have different results even if the flyback is dead. Will update you guys in about a week.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

I unwrapped everything to get a better look at what I'm working with. Here is a pic of the missing piece of the control panel side on the Q25. No way for it to end up inside.

What confused me though is this mess of wires that were just shoved inside the NNC. Anyone have ANY idea what this shit is? I see a 220v transformer.

This is what's left after I removed all of the wire mess. Is this what is supposed to be in there?

 

[8bitforlife]

I unwrapped everything to get a better look at what I'm working with. Here is a pic of the missing piece of the control panel side on the Q25. No way for it to end up inside.

What confused me though is this mess of wires that were just shoved inside the NNC. Anyone have ANY idea what this shit is? I see a 220v transformer.

This is what's left after I removed all of the wire mess. Is this what is supposed to be in there?

you could use plsatic epoxy and shape it and sand it to remake that side. But then that leaves discoloration. So youd have to sane both sides and repaint so they match. there was q25 parts on ebay but not sure if that part.

 

[BlinG]

I think some of that rats nest of wires was for a ghetto rigged VS set up. That's not the official sega VS pcb, but it's using the same mounting kit and wiring.

 

[Cereth]

Oh that corner. Yeah I'm pretty sure that was like that before. As for the inside of the NNCs, that mess of wiring was in all of them, but I don't remember how it's supposed to look after

 

[RealMFnG]

All 4 of the NNC's that I got my hands on (2 for me, 2 for my buddy), all had that same rat's nest. It took me 20 minutes to unravel the first rats next because I didn't want to pull something out I shouldn't have. But in the end, it was just stuffed in there. Not even going to bother trying to hook up whatever that is. Making my own JAMMA loom. As for what an NNC is supposed to actually look like, I don't know. But what you have after pulling that out is exactly what I have, deadly imported Chinese mold and all.

Can you (or anyone else that picked up an NNC in this group buy) remove the front panel. There is another AC switch there. Can you see if the frame is cut haphazardly around the AC switch?

 

[PascalP]

@Mitsurugi-w this is what the wiring should look like;
New Net City refurbish / restoration

 

[Hedonism Bot 2.0]

I expect you can pair an MS-293x chassis to the Windy 2 tube, at least?

The 2932 I tried arrived dead. The replacement is on its way, but I’ll have to figure out some yoke adapters in the meantime. My tube isn’t that bad and I’d be okay with it being vga only, as long as it works.

 

[Thamiel]

The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.

Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.

 

[kuze]

The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.

Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.

One thing I considered was unscrewing the chassis tray and flipping it upside down assuming it would still fit.

But yeah other than that a riser, or way to mount the chassis horizontally across the cab may be needed.

Also I wonder if a frame could be mounted to the tube then the chassis could simply mount to that like in a Blast City?

 

[Thamiel]

The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.

Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.

One thing I considered was unscrewing the chassis tray and flipping it upside down assuming it would still fit.
But yeah other than that a riser, or way to mount the chassis horizontally across the cab may be needed.

Also I wonder if a frame could be mounted to the tube then the chassis could simply mount to that like in a Blast City

Pretty sure you can't do it without cutting out some plastic. Pain in the arse.

 

[caloge]

All 4 of the NNC's that I got my hands on (2 for me, 2 for my buddy), all had that same rat's nest. It took me 20 minutes to unravel the first rats next because I didn't want to pull something out I shouldn't have. But in the end, it was just stuffed in there. Not even going to bother trying to hook up whatever that is. Making my own JAMMA loom. As for what an NNC is supposed to actually look like, I don't know. But what you have after pulling that out is exactly what I have, deadly imported Chinese mold and all.

Can you (or anyone else that picked up an NNC in this group buy) remove the front panel. There is another AC switch there. Can you see if the frame is cut haphazardly around the AC switch?

Mine does not appear cut haphazardly. You have a pic?

still dont have mine up and running yet. My only JVS board is giving me issues, so I ordered a jammafier today. Hopefully the cab is fine otherwise. Looks to be in good shape.

 

[RealMFnG]

Mine does not appear cut haphazardly. You have a pic?

still dont have mine up and running yet. My only JVS board is giving me issues, so I ordered a jammafier today. Hopefully the cab is fine otherwise. Looks to be in good shape.

Wahhhh? Hook up a laptop to that VGA connection at least to see some 31khz glory.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

My NNC has the cut too. I wonder if it's a factory mod. Looks almost like the power switch was supposed to be further right.

I messed with my cabs more today.

After removing the rats nest, the NNC had everything wired the way it was needed so I put my Naomi in it and it looks and sounds great. The controls all need a complete redo. I still need to order all new buttons and joysticks for all three cabs. But for the NNC I need to remove the bezel to get a look at how the I/O is wired.

How do I remove the clips without breaking them?

Here is a pic of the cab running:

The Egret 2 is also working well. It has a very nice picture on the monitor. It needs all new controls and for some reason the joysticks are wired 100% backwards. This one just needs a lot of cosmetic work. It also needs a new pcb mounting board. If anyone else is having one cut get another one done and I'll pay you for it.

The Q25 is easily the one that needs the most work. It needs to be cleaned really good. I was considering myself very lucky because the monitor came on and gave a good image. i adjusted it awhile and it was working great until I bumped the cab and the monitor died. Should be an easy fix since it points to cold solder.

Yaton has agreed to sell me some yellowed but undamaged end caps to fix the control panel.

I have a few questions regarding Q-Sound. The sound works fine from JAMMA but the Q Sound amp is installed and the RCA plugs to plug into the pcb are present. Do you need to switch between JAMMA audio and Q-Sound somehow? There is a connector labeled Q-Sound on the service panel below the volume buttons. What is this used for?

Here is a pic of the cabinet working 100% before I bumped it:

 

[rewrite]

I wonder if it's a factory mod.

Not sure, but I've had 4 or 5 NNC's across my time, and I've never seen that cut.

Glad most of your stuff is working nicely! Hopefully @ReplicaX can answer how things work in the Q25.

Also, that last pic is the same as the second, rather than one of the Q25.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Also, that last pic is the same as the second, rather than one of the Q25.

Fixed it while you were reading.

 

[RealMFnG]

How do I remove the clips without breaking them?

Along the edge towards the outside of the cab, insert two small flat head screwdrivers one towards the top of the clip, one towards the bottom. In the middle is the key that holds it it. Pry the screwdrivers back towards the back of the cab and the clips should come out with minimal effort.