What's new

FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

For Sale
All 4 of the NNC's that I got my hands on (2 for me, 2 for my buddy), all had that same rat's nest. It took me 20 minutes to unravel the first rats next because I didn't want to pull something out I shouldn't have. But in the end, it was just stuffed in there. Not even going to bother trying to hook up whatever that is. Making my own JAMMA loom. As for what an NNC is supposed to actually look like, I don't know. But what you have after pulling that out is exactly what I have, deadly imported Chinese mold and all.

Can you (or anyone else that picked up an NNC in this group buy) remove the front panel. There is another AC switch there. Can you see if the frame is cut haphazardly around the AC switch?
 
Hatsune Mike said:
I expect you can pair an MS-293x chassis to the Windy 2 tube, at least?
Click to expand...
The 2932 I tried arrived dead. The replacement is on its way, but I’ll have to figure out some yoke adapters in the meantime. My tube isn’t that bad and I’d be okay with it being vga only, as long as it works.
 
kuze said:
The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.
Click to expand...
Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.
 
Thamiel said:
kuze said:
The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.
Click to expand...
Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.
Click to expand...
One thing I considered was unscrewing the chassis tray and flipping it upside down assuming it would still fit.

But yeah other than that a riser, or way to mount the chassis horizontally across the cab may be needed.

Also I wonder if a frame could be mounted to the tube then the chassis could simply mount to that like in a Blast City?
 
kuze said:
Thamiel said:
kuze said:
The inductance seems to be within range for using a MS293x chassis on Windy 2 tube/yoke.

The yoke connector for horizontal doesn't mate correctly with MS293x chassis though, so you have to build an adapter.

I did that and the next problem I ran into was the neck board cables aren't long enough to make it to the neck from where the chassis sits.

I may "ghetto rig" it just to confirm the chassis works nicely on the tube, then lengthen the neck board cables so I can properly seat the chassis - or I may find another way of mounting the chassis higher up.
Click to expand...
Same problem I have with mine. Big issue is the anode wire on the 293x chassis are too short to reach from the chassis mounting spot. Gunna have to figure out building a riser or something.
Click to expand...
One thing I considered was unscrewing the chassis tray and flipping it upside down assuming it would still fit.
But yeah other than that a riser, or way to mount the chassis horizontally across the cab may be needed.

Also I wonder if a frame could be mounted to the tube then the chassis could simply mount to that like in a Blast City
Click to expand...
Pretty sure you can't do it without cutting out some plastic. Pain in the arse.
 
acblunden2 said:
All 4 of the NNC's that I got my hands on (2 for me, 2 for my buddy), all had that same rat's nest. It took me 20 minutes to unravel the first rats next because I didn't want to pull something out I shouldn't have. But in the end, it was just stuffed in there. Not even going to bother trying to hook up whatever that is. Making my own JAMMA loom. As for what an NNC is supposed to actually look like, I don't know. But what you have after pulling that out is exactly what I have, deadly imported Chinese mold and all.

Can you (or anyone else that picked up an NNC in this group buy) remove the front panel. There is another AC switch there. Can you see if the frame is cut haphazardly around the AC switch?
Click to expand...
Mine does not appear cut haphazardly. You have a pic?

still dont have mine up and running yet. My only JVS board is giving me issues, so I ordered a jammafier today. Hopefully the cab is fine otherwise. Looks to be in good shape.
 
caloge said:
Mine does not appear cut haphazardly. You have a pic?
Click to expand...
Haphazard2.jpg

caloge said:
still dont have mine up and running yet. My only JVS board is giving me issues, so I ordered a jammafier today. Hopefully the cab is fine otherwise. Looks to be in good shape.
Click to expand...
Wahhhh? Hook up a laptop to that VGA connection at least to see some 31khz glory.
 

Attachments

  • Haphazard1.jpg
    Haphazard1.jpg
    355.2 KB · Views: 114
My NNC has the cut too. I wonder if it's a factory mod. Looks almost like the power switch was supposed to be further right.

I messed with my cabs more today.

After removing the rats nest, the NNC had everything wired the way it was needed so I put my Naomi in it and it looks and sounds great. The controls all need a complete redo. I still need to order all new buttons and joysticks for all three cabs. But for the NNC I need to remove the bezel to get a look at how the I/O is wired.

How do I remove the clips without breaking them?

Here is a pic of the cab running:

dmcfar.jpg



The Egret 2 is also working well. It has a very nice picture on the monitor. It needs all new controls and for some reason the joysticks are wired 100% backwards. This one just needs a lot of cosmetic work. It also needs a new pcb mounting board. If anyone else is having one cut get another one done and I'll pay you for it. ;)

dpwv8z.jpg



The Q25 is easily the one that needs the most work. It needs to be cleaned really good. I was considering myself very lucky because the monitor came on and gave a good image. i adjusted it awhile and it was working great until I bumped the cab and the monitor died. Should be an easy fix since it points to cold solder.

Yaton has agreed to sell me some yellowed but undamaged end caps to fix the control panel.

I have a few questions regarding Q-Sound. The sound works fine from JAMMA but the Q Sound amp is installed and the RCA plugs to plug into the pcb are present. Do you need to switch between JAMMA audio and Q-Sound somehow? There is a connector labeled Q-Sound on the service panel below the volume buttons. What is this used for?

Here is a pic of the cabinet working 100% before I bumped it:

1z4zol4.jpg
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
I wonder if it's a factory mod.
Click to expand...
Not sure, but I've had 4 or 5 NNC's across my time, and I've never seen that cut.

Glad most of your stuff is working nicely! Hopefully @ReplicaX can answer how things work in the Q25.

Also, that last pic is the same as the second, rather than one of the Q25.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
How do I remove the clips without breaking them?
Click to expand...
Along the edge towards the outside of the cab, insert two small flat head screwdrivers one towards the top of the clip, one towards the bottom. In the middle is the key that holds it it. Pry the screwdrivers back towards the back of the cab and the clips should come out with minimal effort.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
The Egret 2 is also working well. It has a very nice picture on the monitor. It needs all new controls and for some reason the joysticks are wired 100% backwards. This one just needs a lot of cosmetic work. It also needs a new pcb mounting board. If anyone else is having one cut get another one done and I'll pay you for it. ;)
Click to expand...
My E2 has the same joystick controls issue, left on the joystick corresponds to up over JAMMA.

I suspect the reason is the repro CP only has mounts that fit the joystick one direction, so you can't rotate the stick so the directions are correct.

On mine the CP harness seems to have been hacked/spliced too, so I guess that could be why if it isn't the above reason.

I picked up a new CP harness from @Lemony Vengeance and will install the new harness and fresh buttons + sticks when my Alberto panel arrives.
 
I also need a mounting board cut for my Egret II, though it is not from the group order. If anyone can do that, I'd also be much appreciative!
 
My Egret was "wired" backward as you guys say. Down= up etc. Just remove the gate and rotate microswitch board around then perfect. Easy peasy all mine was.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
I have a few questions regarding Q-Sound. The sound works fine from JAMMA but the Q Sound amp is installed and the RCA plugs to plug into the pcb are present. Do you need to switch between JAMMA audio and Q-Sound somehow? There is a connector labeled Q-Sound on the service panel below the volume buttons. What is this used for?
Click to expand...
[align=center]You are close. In the image below I just mocked up everything. If you want to use QSound which is via RCA only, move the connector from the JAMMA Sound to the QSound Plug. Vice Versa going from QSound back to JAMMA.
CPS3 Mobos aren't BGS so you have to use the Pot on the CPS3 board itself to adjust the volume.
As always any CPS2 or CPS3 game remember to go into the settings and change the sound to: QSound.
If you ever connect back into a non-QSound cab, if you have no sound, it saved the setting so you have to switch it back.
Edit: I also switch between QSound and JAMMA Sound powered off. I'm changing a PCB out anyway.


fdSFS03.jpg
[/align]
 
good chance buttons and sticks were just thrown on the cabs. It's not uncommon for me to have to rotate sticks when I move panels from one cab to another
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top