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What part of "they don't fit the curve" do you guys not get. I'd rather have a scanned print on overhead paper stick in there then this thing.
I had to look at the picture more closely to see what your talking about and ya i can see it pealing from the ends as its not the right curve.
 

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If that's the one from the dude in Australia or such... it's total garbage.
Like DZ said, it doesn't fit the curvature and the print quality wasn't all that good.
 
Sucks it doesn’t fit, didn’t know that... :(

But still better than none for some folks ;)
Hoping @acblunden2 project turns out nice for them E2 owner, really filling a gap here bro!
From talking with @'Cereth'' and his friend, my buddy and the graphic artists that work with him, and the more I think about the task, casting a resin mold is the way to go for the panel blank. Vaccuum forming printed plastic for the art work. Finally fusing them together should get us a faithful long lasting reproduction.

The panel that Rg111 loaned is not going to work however; it is too damaged to be the template to make a cast of. I do have my E2 panel in tact. I'll look and see if there is a way to remove it without damaging it. But the best bet is a fella in my area that has a blank. But poor guys is going through issues with having loaned out his stuff for reproduction and is in a bad situation from that. Might have to wait on that for a bit until he is comfortable with loaning it out. So marathon on this one fellas, not a sprint.

In the meantime, I am going to do two things:
  1. Look to repro the art faithfully
    • My buddy's business has some really good pro artists that can do the work (this part I am least worried about)
  2. Practice the resin casting process with my NNC illuminated panel
    • That I believe comes out with screws
    • By default, that is orange in color
    • I want to produce a clear one for my personal use which I will illuminate with RGB LED lighting
    • Having been an Astro City owner for so long, I like that green glow and maybe having an option on switching up the lighting color depending on the game
    • Any work here, will be posted on the NNC thread for
 
Well, what you'd have to do is cast a mold, make something out of it, and get that shaped properly, then make a mold of THAT. Or, if we can borrow one of the NOS ones, either way
 
Nice, not an E2 owner myself but would be all over this if I was!

Regarding the NNC panel, that should be red, Net City is orange
 
I do have my E2 panel in tact. I'll look and see if there is a way to remove it without damaging it.
Unless yours is already loose I seriously wouldn't try. I was fortunate enough to buy one new from Taito when I had an E2 around 10 years ago and there was absolutely no chance of the original coming out in one piece. Even if it had it wouldn't have been good for much other than measurements due to how brittle it had become.
 
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Well, what you'd have to do is cast a mold, make something out of it, and get that shaped properly, then make a mold of THAT. Or, if we can borrow one of the NOS ones, either way
Then pray in the end the fit will be right. Those glued together pieces are slightly off. Rg111's panel will have its purpose as a reference for repro'ing the art.
Nice, not an E2 owner myself but would be all over this if I was!

Regarding the NNC panel, that should be red, Net City is orange
From what 300wins tells me, NNC's with red panels came only with Tekken 5. Otherwise by default, they are orange.
 
I worked on some monitors this week. Here's a top tip, when you have the chassis out, give all the pots on the chassis some good full, end to end turns. If you have contact cleaner, spray that on all of the pots. I went through everything, the pots on the chassis for adjusting the image, the B+ pot, both focus and screen pots on the flyback, the pots on the remote. I had some weird things happen before this. Since the cabs had been stored in a damp environment many of the pots have oxidation or even corrosion. Turning them and dousing them with alcohol will hopefully break down whatever crud is between the resistance element and the wiper.

Naturally, for things like the B+ pot, you want to make note of the original position very carefully.
 
They should be there by now-ish, everything else is showing up
 
They called me yesterday to schedule delivery. I'm taking delivery next Thursday. Need time to clean out the garage.
 
Cereth delivered me a 2nd NNC from the group buy. Pretty much the same condition as the first one. This one however isn't showing any RED.

Will swap out VGA cables and take things from there. Cap it if necessary. Hoping it isn't the tube. But if after some trouble shooting the basics and easy stuff, I can pull the chassis from my first NNC to test if it is the tube. Hoping it is anything but the tube. Wish me luck (fingers crossed).

Oh, and only 69 accepted coins in this one. Interesting number, yeah? :).
 
Cereth delivered me a 2nd NNC from the group buy. Pretty much the same condition as the first one. This one however isn't showing any RED.

Will swap out VGA cables and take things from there. Cap it if necessary. Hoping it isn't the tube. But if after some trouble shooting the basics and easy stuff, I can pull the chassis from my first NNC to test if it is the tube. Hoping it is anything but the tube. Wish me luck (fingers crossed).

Oh, and only 69 accepted coins in this one. Interesting number, yeah? :).
sir you can do tests without change chassis over. First if you have tube tester obviously best for getting emission reading from cathode. That will show exact strength (ie B&k 467,490, sencore c70, etc). If you don't have You can still check tube gun working by power up Mon and ground cathode on neckboard for whichever colour. Connect red cathode to ground for a few second and whole tube will turn red. Make sense? That will show problem is either on tube (no colour show up) or chassis (colour show up). you essentially bypass chassis issue doing that. From there if problem on chassis would definitely start check colour drive transistor on neckboard. There will 3 with heatsink. R,G,B. You can test with multimeter on diode check. IF no multimeter can easily swap all three around to see if problem move. for instance take red and green swap. Now red work but no green? colour drive transistor :).
 
sir you can do tests without change chassis over. First if you have tube tester obviously best for getting emission reading from cathode. That will show exact strength (ie B&k 467,490, sencore c70, etc). If you don't have You can still check tube gun working by power up Mon and ground cathode on neckboard for whichever colour. Connect red cathode to ground for a few second and whole tube will turn red. Make sense? That will show problem is either on tube (no colour show up) or chassis (colour show up). you essentially bypass chassis issue doing that. From there if problem on chassis would definitely start check colour drive transistor on neckboard. There will 3 with heatsink. R,G,B. You can test with multimeter on diode check. IF no multimeter can easily swap all three around to see if problem move. for instance take red and green swap. Now red work but no green? colour drive transistor :).
Thanks sir. Got lucky. Best case scenario came to fruition.

Removed back panel, unplugged VGA cable, connected one of the extra VGA cables from rat's nest that came with the NNC's in the group buy, connected the other end to the NAOMI, and boom! Red is back in business. Will route a new VGA cable this weekend to get all squared away.

Thanks again @XeD, another happy customer.
 
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