FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

[fuzzbuddy]

I guess these are the bad PSUs to use for the Egret 2s?

They are NOS, wondering if I should recap them first.

I would still get these recapped (even if they are NOS).Had a NOS E2 PSU go nuts and fry a PCB. The cost of a recap really is a drop in the ocean when you consider all the other expensive crap this thing is driving.

Just for the record, any old power supply is going to do that. Doesn't have much to do with it being an E2 power supply.
Putting it out there not for you so much as the E2 PSU hate camp around here.

Always always always test new to you, recently repaired, or long time storage power supplies with test PCBs or junk boards.

Didn't realise there were E2 PSU haters out there

Agreed NOS PSU doesn't mean anything if it's over 20 years old. Just to level this out, I had a mint/pristine Capcom cute PSU, but that was leaky as heck when getting recapped.

 

[RealMFnG]

I always use Tekken, so I don’t accidentally fry my Blast City Test PCB on accident.

I use Final Round!

For whatever reason, i end up using a hammering Harry m84 board as my test board

Neo Geo MVS 1 slot has always been my trusty test board

I use Ibara Black Label

Psssssh.....! You haven't lived until you've seen PitFighter's attract mode screens for testing purposes.

 

[RealMFnG]

Alright, swapped the yoke and 29E31S chassis over to the Toshiba tube. So far so good. But I can't get it it sync vertically and there isn't a vertical sync pot to be found anywhere on the 29E31S chassis. Silver lining here is that before the swap, I could not get the 29E31S to sync to Windows VGA video either. Given that, everything went well. Any of you guys know where the vertical sync pot is on this chassis or if it even exists?

Will cap kit this sucker next week and feed it NAOMI 31khz video and see where it goes from there.

 

[ThisGuy]

Alright, swapped the yoke and 29E31S chassis over to the Toshiba tube. So far so good. But I can't get it it sync vertically and there isn't a vertical sync pot to be found anywhere on the 29E31S chassis. Silver lining here is that before the swap, I could not get the 29E31S to sync to Windows VGA video either. Given that, everything went well. Any of you guys know where the vertical sync pot is on this chassis or if it even exists?

Will cap kit this sucker next week and feed it NAOMI 31khz video and see where it goes from there.

I had one in my wmmt2 cab and it did not have vertical sync wired. It was vga plug on one end and a molex connector on the other end. I had to locate the vertical sync wire in wiring sleeve and wire to the chassis to p101. I wired sync and ground. Vertical sync was the middle plug on p101. I had the same issue running a naomi in my wmmt2 cab where it would not sync vertically. This link helped me out. I just did this a few weeks ago

 

[RealMFnG]

I had one in my wmmt2 cab and it did not have vertical sync wired. It was vga plug on one end and a molex connector on the other end. I had to locate the vertical sync wire in wiring sleeve and wire to the chassis to p101. I wired sync and ground. Vertical sync was the middle plug on p101. I had the same issue running a naomi in my wmmt2 cab where it would not sync vertically. This link helped me out. I just did this a few weeks ago

Word. I'll check that out. That is great info. I might be able to ressurect the Windy II this week with the 29E31S. I know this chassis has some weird fold over action going on top of the screen since as long as I've had it. Will see if there is pot that fixes this (a la the 50/60 hertz pot on a K7000 chassis). I also have the cap kit ready if no such pot exists.

Also an update from the PNL Video front. They've since refuse to send me back Toshiba PB7534-1 chassis. But for good reasons. John @PNL Video sees the chassis as a personal challenge to himself. He tells us that the flyback that is on there is not OG. He is searching his boneyard for a suitable flyback. Once he has sourced one, then will fix the chassis and send it back. We gave him a deadline of another month to send it back. Will keep you guys updated.

 

[RealMFnG]

I had one in my wmmt2 cab and it did not have vertical sync wired. It was vga plug on one end and a molex connector on the other end. I had to locate the vertical sync wire in wiring sleeve and wire to the chassis to p101. I wired sync and ground. Vertical sync was the middle plug on p101. I had the same issue running a naomi in my wmmt2 cab where it would not sync vertically. This link helped me out. I just did this a few weeks ago

Success!

So the chassis synced up with the Namco System 246 previously. But would not sync up to Windows. Sanwa 29E31S manual says the chassis can accept C-Sync from pin 13 of the D-sub connector. VGA of course is RGBHV. So that tells me that System 246 outputs C-Sync on pin 13 and connects to P101 on the chassis. There is only one connection at pin 1 on P101.

I broke open the VGA D-sub connector on the 29E31S and wired a jumper from pin 14 to pin 2 on P101. Boom, got sync! But didn't like having a jumper wire even though this is a temporary situation. So I cut the jumper wire. Then jumpered pin 13 and 14 at the D-sub connector to get C-sync on pin 13 connected to pin 1 on P101.

Plugged that in and boom! It worked. Moral of the story, if the video source can output C-sync at pin 13, then connect that to pin 1 on P101. If video source is H/V separate sync, then you have to either:

1. Jumper pin 13 and 14 to get C-sync at pin 13 on the VGA connector. Then feed that to pin 1 on P101, or
2. Run separate H/V sync as standard on a VGA connector and connect H-Sync to pin 1 and V-Sync to pin 2 on P101

Here it is being feed a white background to check for burn (virtually none) but does need a demag:

And here it is with the fold over issue. Hope it is a pot that can fix this. But I plan to recap anyway:

Some geometry stuff I have to deal with. Convergence too. That's a two man job. But the Windy II shall breath life once again soon.

 

[nem]

And here it is with the fold over issue. Hope it is a pot that can fix this. But I plan to recap anyway:

It's a cap issue.

Good work!

 

[Mrhide]

Anyone know how to remove the original panel without damaging it?

HERE you go:


then heat the sides cause there's a lot of glue:

no really, this took 15 minutes

 

[SnakeGrunger]

Tales of my Windy2... Container lands in Montreal, rent a truck, me and some friends all go to pick our cabs up. Unload the unit in my house, dirty but not damaged.



Plug in the SNES with a scart to VGA to test out 15kHz mode, I get an image but geometry and severe color bleeding issue..



Clean the chassis nice and tidy.



Change all the caps. All of them. Careful with the bipolar caps, and even do the small surface mount ones.



Power it on, oh ! Very clean pixels, geometry way off.



Adjust geometry, try to get a nice square, some color convergence issue in one corner, no big deal..



Cool !! I can play now, so happy !

Power off the unit, do something, power it back on... No image. Power off again, on again, OK get an image this time, but I'm worried.

I go and test 31kHz mode, I get severe horizontal sync issue and figure some testing is in order, check online etc.

Power off, power on the next day, nothing. Power off, on, nothing. Screen doesn't come on.

Rest in peace, flyback transformer model TFB5078AD with no replacements.

 

[Hatsune Mike]

Geometry looks good, it looks as though your green bias is a bit low (see how the dark area is purple?) and then the total "brightness" control is a little high (where black is dark grey instead).

 

[SnakeGrunger]

@Hatsune Mike yeah, you're right, I didn't adjust colors... But I can't do anything more at this stage as the flyback died. I get neck glow, but as soon as I hear the monitor charge up it discharges before showing anything and stays dead.

 

[Hatsune Mike]

Are you sure it's the flyback? Is there a crack in it? If not, it might be something more mundane, like the HOT having blown, or the B+ voltage being wrong. Having to measure and adjust B+ after a recap isn't uncommon, and Toshiba chassis have a reputation for blowing HOTs after having been recapped. If you get neck glow, that's a sign your flyback might have a chance, since it usually comes off of a secondary winding to get the ~6.3VAC.

 

[90sCyberThriller]

Are you sure it's the flyback? Is there a crack in it? If not, it might be something more mundane, like the HOT having blown, or the B+ voltage being wrong. Having to measure and adjust B+ after a recap isn't uncommon, and Toshiba chassis have a reputation for blowing HOTs after having been recapped. If you get neck glow, that's a sign your flyback might have a chance, since it usually comes off of a secondary winding to get the ~6.3VAC.

that is some good information, thanks. I'm having the same issue where it would turn on and then as soon as you power off it won't cut back on again. I change the hot once and it worked one time then it wouldn't power back on again. I'm assuming it keeps blowing the hot but not sure yet. Was going to order more but they're kind of expensive to test like that.
There is a pot by the fly back to adjust HV but I don't know what to set it at. My fly back was either replaced or repaired at one point as it had been badly re-soldered at one point in time I posted a pic a couple pages back

 

[90sCyberThriller]

Kuze can you please verify part # of q431. On heatsink near flyback. Thank you

K1358 7F

Just noticed my HOT is completely different, it's K2847 and definitely has been changed at one point in time

 

[brad808]

Kuze can you please verify part # of q431. On heatsink near flyback. Thank you

K1358 7F

Just noticed my HOT is completely different, it's K2847 and definitely has been changed at one point in time

Sir please note that is not your horizontal output transistor

 

[SnakeGrunger]

@'brad808 which one is it ? the 2SC4288 ?

 

[brad808]

Q425

 

[kuze]

Just heard back from Sharp Image Repair, unfortunately the flyback is bad on my Windy 2 chassis and it is being sent back to me as unrepairable.

They said they fixed the HOT which was bad and an issue in the vertical section as well before confirming that the flyback is bad. He said it makes a cracking sound inside when he turns it on now.

 

[baklakiller]

Just heard back from Sharp Image Repair, unfortunately the flyback is bad on my Windy 2 chassis and it is being sent back to me as unrepairable.

They said they fixed the HOT which was bad and an issue in the vertical section as well before confirming that the flyback is bad. He said it makes a cracking sound inside when he turns it on now.

How reliable/honest is Sharp? I have friend who sent out a chassis and they said the same thing almost. Its unrepairable. My only experience was for them to have a working chassis for my AWSD, i almost waited 6 months until they stop communicating with me. I ended up selling my cab so no big deal. Want to send out a couple of chassis to be fixed, but kind of worried of the long waiting game, end up paying for something they cant fix or worse lose a working chassis as im not sure if its the chassis or the monitor that's not functioning correctly.

 

[rewrite]

How reliable/honest is Sharp?

I've yet to have reason to believe they're anything but honest. Parts aren't always available (like the Windy 2 chassis' flyback). We're /way/ past the point where most people are regularly having these things fixed at all, so it's not surprising that some things are simply beyond repair at this point from a parts availability standpoint.

I'm currently 4/5 repairs that went fine. The other is a chassis they've never seen before, replaced just about everything, and got stuck at one burnt out resistor they couldn't read the value of.

They only charge their diagnostic fee if it's not repairable, even if they do work on it and replace half the components. That's a pretty honest business practice if you ask me. They could charge for the work and parts too but don't.