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to be frank I read the fw update process 3 times, I don't understand what I'm supposed to do or plug... (so I plugged held service button, plugged jvs (usb data when jumpers?) then micro usb (power?)

I have my pc open on the flashing page and the device manager and get nothing at all.

(just micro usb without jumpers plugged in gives me a blinking blue led so I guess I didn't fry it at least)

don't want to sound entitled or anything but I don't get why there's no jumper pins in there in the first place, with a couple jumpers (because you can just do all this without this and use a A to A usb cable I guess? no super clear either, a picture or video would be useful)

I hope this evolves in something with 4buttons and a super small oled b&w display in a couple years.
 

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got the updating part to work partly thanks to @ShootTheCore (thanks man deeply appreciated!) and partly due to using a different pc and holding the service button for the whole process of plugging both usb cables to the computer, also for some reason I still can't see the device in windows device manager in the first computer I tried, so you might be SOL like I was before and I still don't know why...

Any how, I will try to make a quick tutorial on how to do a FIRST TIME fw update :
(after that you'll only need to bother with the windows device manager and choosing drivers if you use a different computer or windows install, to update the fw of the board)

1) bridge/ use jumpers there :
fw_fig.jpg

fw_fig_v2.jpg


3) on a windows computer open : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/firmware_en in CHROME (make sure you didn't block chrome notification windows service if issue) also,
open Windows Device Manager (right click on the windows flag on the lower left corner by default>Device Manager) (collapse everything in Windows Device Manager if needed to see the bottom of the list)

4) HOLD SERVICE button one the MP07-IONA-US JVS/USB I/O Board

5) plug the micro usb (or type-c if you have the newer model) cable to a usb2.0 or lower port on your computer (alternatively, you can use a beefy enough charger here)

6) KEEP HOLDING SERVICE button

7) plug the JVS port (USB type B) to a usb2.0 or lower port on your computer with a usb cable known to have the data wires (not only the vcc and gnd wires))

8 ) IT WORKED ! you can now let go of the service button because you just heard windows notification sounds (I heard a set of 2 I think) that are usual with plugging/unplugging usb stuff

9) in Windows Device Manager, right click on the new unknown device that just popped up, right click, go to the details tab and check that the property of "device instance path" has the same VID/PID as on this picture (if it's not, you are looking at another device inside or outside your computer but plugged in and not working, so something else completely)
2022-03-27 11_33_41-Device Manager.png


10) if your VID/PID matches, hit cancel, and right click again on the same item but choose Update Drivers, then :
  1. In the wizard, select Browse my computer for driver software.
  2. Select Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.
  3. From the list of device classes, select Universal Serial Bus devices.
  4. The wizard displays WinUsb Device. Select it to load the driver. (Hit next)

2022-03-27 11_38_59-Update Drivers - Unknown Device.png


11) open : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/firmware_en in CHROME and scroll all the way down (make sure you didn't block chrome notification widows service if issues)

12) choose the version of the firmware you want to update to and hit "flash".
2022-03-27 11_42_40-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png


13) you should see something like this in the top left corner of your Chrome window Unknown device from WinChipHead
(sorry for the french, running an english install of win10pro, everything should be set in eng...anyhow.)
2022-03-27 11_41_06-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png


14) click on Unknown device from WinChipHead
2022-03-27 11_41_48-toyoshim.github.io tente de se connecter.png

15) hit Connection button, and you device should flash :)
2022-03-27 11_43_32-Firmware Updates _ MP07-IONA-US Support Site.png

16) unplug both cables
17) REMOVE THE JUMPERS
18 ) I'M NOT KIDDING, DO IT BEFORE YOU FORGET
19 ) have fun with your updated device! please provide unsupported controller info here : https://toyoshim.github.io/iona-us/report_en (Direct Message him on Twitter with the info reported by the site at twitter "@toyoshim" / https://twitter.com/toyoshim ) it is crucial that we provide Toyoshim with this info to grow what this device can do for us :)

Type-C was a step in the right direction in my book but this needs a small oled screen, 4 buttons, wifi with web interface that can be deactivated if needed to set all this up.
 
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The above steps worked!

@Shin Thank you for posting the informative guide.

Before, on the same USB ports I couldn't get my PC to recognize the device, now setting the jumpers and holding the service button and using a USB C cable for power and a USB A-B cable from the JVS port, the device installed correctly. I went onto the site and it flashed quickly.
 
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Hi! :)

I just updated the pcb to 1.42d. & always the same problem X/


No Connection between the Ehrgeiz Namco System 12 and still searching in a loop.

The Blue Led of the MP07-IONA-US flashes continuously.

I tested with another Namco System 12 Tekken 3 same problem as Ehrgeiz it runs in a loop

With Namco System 12 Fighting Layer it's another problem.

There is no menu on the start screen, black screen ?(

I just hear the screen switching 8|

Thank you for Help :thumbup:
 
Final batch of these from me are due to arrive tomorrow and will be shipped the following morning and everyone will be updated with tracking and pics.

There’ll be 3 units left over and available on www.CandyCabClub.com for anyone who missed out down under or wants to order from me.

Thanks to everyone who copped one or two and apologies for the delay on this last batch :)
 
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I don't wanna derail the thread too much, but... anyone willing to print a case for a V1? If so please shoot me a PM.

Thanks!
I printed mine at https://printathing.com/

B2FC09D9-D034-4D58-87EA-A7F72BE6B7FA.jpeg


Surely if you can get someone to help it would come out less expensive. I personally thought that price was fair all things considered.
 
I printed mine at https://printathing.com/

B2FC09D9-D034-4D58-87EA-A7F72BE6B7FA.jpeg


Surely if you can get someone to help it would come out less expensive. I personally thought that price was fair all things considered.
Eeeek! That's too much imo. Did you want ABS in particular?

Here's my receipt for 5 prints from craftcloud, just one of them was the MP07 case. $22.72 shipped for everything.
 

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Eeeek! That's too much imo. Did you want ABS in particular?

Here's my receipt for 5 prints from craftcloud, just one of them was the MP07 case. $22.72 shipped for everything.
That's an even better deal. Print a Thing didn't have PETG as an option actually. LOL. I'm also not well versed with 3DPrinting. PETG was the recommended filament from Zephrino's instructions. I'll take a look at CraftCloud for next projects.

TBH it didnt really dent my wallet, i agree better more cost effective places to print :D
 
Right on. I shopped around a bit because I don't have the space or desire to own my own 3D printer, and I looked through several different services. I like this one because you pick materials and it gives you a list of companies and their prices to print it. Kinda a middle man situation but a good one; you can pick any plastic/color/etc and see your options. Honestly, with it like that, I have little desire to own my own printer right now.... I would go crazy on accessories and stuff lol.
 
Right on. I shopped around a bit because I don't have the space or desire to own my own 3D printer, and I looked through several different services. I like this one because you pick materials and it gives you a list of companies and their prices to print it. Kinda a middle man situation but a good one; you can pick any plastic/color/etc and see your options. Honestly, with it like that, I have little desire to own my own printer right now.... I would go crazy on accessories and stuff lol.

Thanks for the recommend on CraftCloud @skate323k137 . I just ordered a V1 case through them with PETG material and the total was $12.34 after shipping.

Yea this is awesome! Thank you again. Looking forward to V2 print now
 
UPS finally delivered this last batch and everyone who has ordered has got photos of their packages and tracking in their PM.

Thanks kindly to everyone who purchased. The demand for this little device was well and above what I imagined. I won’t be doing another batch for a little while, but have a couple hanging around still if anyone needs.

FE7813C5-D2B6-42B2-B520-0415DD4B880C.jpeg

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378D9741-63B4-4B95-8FB2-8FDD1E9848B2.jpeg
 
I was inspired by an earlier post and made a case for the USB-C version of the board. It is very BETA. I need to make some minor adjustments and there are some features I would like to add (lightpipe for the LED and a better top). I put the files online for any one to use.

https://www.printables.com/model/159069-mp07-iona-us-usb-c-case
 

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Finally got around to testing very briefly the v1 board I recently received. Only had a chance to try it on Naomi 2 and even then, just some digital control games. Works perfectly with the two controller options I quickly had on hand:
  • PSOne OEM pad via Xbox 360 converter dongle
  • Xbox 360 OEM wired pad
Tested on Marvel vs Capcom 2 & Capcom vs SNK 2 (the latter of which is a game that seems to be very picky about the IO board connected), results were good. No issues at all detecting the IO board and each digital signal worked. Default button mapping is a bit strange for the action buttons (directions, start and select operate as you would expect, with select = coin) but at least consistent between these two tested controllers. Hopefully it is straight forward to remap buttons as needed.

20220329_143009.jpg


It's a good start so far, will definitely test further as my availability allows moving forward and I hope to see this product mature over time in both firmware and possible hardware revisions. Not looking forward to the firmware update process based on what I've seen in this thread but on the flip side I'm thankful for the 3D print case ordering info that has been posted. That's the next item on the agenda for this device from my end.
 
Anyone having any luck on RE2? I'm using a V2 board, with Brook UFB and not getting anything.

I get the flashing LED, then solid once the board is booted, but nothing I do gets any inputs working. I've tried reading down the instructions, but no luck thus far.

Any suggestions?
 
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