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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

GeorgeSpinner said:
First, thank you for your service as the mayor of Metro City. I'm glad you got your daughter back.

Did you try the buttons directly, without going through the entire harness/setup you have?

Connecting the buttons directly to ground should be an easy enough test and it eliminates any potential issues with your cabinet or harness.

That's what I would do, to be certain.
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I ended up trying what you suggested just now and it further confirms that those two extra buttons are not working. Direct wire straight from ground in cab to the pins. The other 4 extra buttons worked fine and were triggered by the wire upon touch. I'm working with Darksoft now via PM, thank you for your help!
 
mikehaggar said:
I ended up trying what you suggested just now and it further confirms that those two extra buttons are not working. Direct wire straight from ground in cab to the pins. The other 4 extra buttons worked fine and were triggered by the wire upon touch. I'm working with Darksoft now via PM, thank you for your help!
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Sorry to hear it's not working correctly, but at least you've confirmed the issue.
 
RickyTTT said:
Only 2 left!!
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I sent Ricky a note...he has none left I just missed these. If anyone else has an unmodified compatible A board (one of the three best options for the multi) please let me know. I would be interested in buying at least 2 and up to 4 of them, as I sadly don't have any of them in inventory and can't play the multi until I get at least 1 of them. Thanks!
 
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Ola!

I don't really know if this counts as an "issue", but today I was blasting through a few beat'em ups on the multi with my son and after completing Cadillacs and The Punisher, we went on with Final Fight. Fought my way through until the 3rd stage, lost all my lives but then something strange happened: I couldn't continue the game. It wasn't even offering me the option. No countdown, nothing. I tried every version, even the anniversary one, but as soon as you lose all lives, the dynamite screen comes up and in the upper left corner You can enter your intials and that's it.

It's somewhat strange, because all the other games do not behave like this and I got them from the "official pack" so, yeah. Any ideas, perhaps?
 
GhaleonUnlimited said:
Have you checked your dip switches?

Mine happened to be on "no continues" for GnG and I was like WTF, this didn't let you continue on arcades???
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No, I didn't. They are in the "universal" position, but in this case I will look up the combination. It was strange, since this was the only game tricking me :) Thank you very much!
 
I haven't had any luck with obtaining a non-desuicided C board (though am still looking). Meanwhile, I bought a digital microscope and decided to 're-suicide' a de-suicided C board from ebay that I had. It worked, and now so does the multi :-)

My soldering skills are medium, but the microscope enabled me to accurately re-earth the 3 cut tracks, and remove the wire. I also found that Weller leaded solder (lower melting point than unleaded solder so won't melt the circuit board/damage tracks), and a cheap electrical soldering iron (again, lower temp than my super-hot Dremel gas soldering iron) helped a lot.
 
the Goat said:
Leaded solder is much easier to work with. It melts at lower temperatures. So it puts less stress on the PCB traces and components. Less chance of cold solder joints. etc. etc. etc.
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Also, those boards were made in an era before lead-free solder was mandated. Mixing lead-free and leaded solder together can lead to solder joints failing over time. So always use leaded solder on arcade PCBs. I'm not even sure if any arcade PCBs were made after the mandatory switchover to lead-free solder.
 
Jdurg said:
Also, those boards were made in an era before lead-free solder was mandated. Mixing lead-free and leaded solder together can lead to solder joints failing over time. So always use leaded solder on arcade PCBs. I'm not even sure if any arcade PCBs were made after the mandatory switchover to lead-free solder.
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RoHS -- the EU rule that forced the industry switch to lead free solder -- is nearly twenty years old (January 2003). So not much of the hardware we discuss on this forum is affected. But still a non-zero amount.
 
Still looking for the recommended C board for this multi. It’s sitting in the box unfortunately until I can obtain one. Willing to pay above market price for an unmodified board please PM me if you have one you are willing to sell or trade.
 
Due to unleaded solder, I damaged a track on a Namco 256 board, and lifted one side of an adjacent resistor because of the higher temperature. Subsequently I repaired it with leaded solder, microscope etc. This is how I learned about garbage unleaded solder- never again!
 
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