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Taito Type X 3 (TTX3) Owners Thread - Pics/Info/Stuff

So I got to the bottom of my TX3 woes today, I have my Lindy down my garden shed which can get quite cold during the winter & my CMOS battery posibly been years old ect the voltage must of dropped a bit causing the bios to reset to its default values & of course re-adding security & not allowing my 4.1 image to load so all sorted now after I accessed the bios.

I did add some "bling" though with some newer ram :P

Big thanks to yosai for sending me in the right direction 8)
 

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Just got a X3 with Artax v4, doesn't get past the X3 splash screen. Red light and beep, then after goes green, screen blanks.... reboots.
Any ideas?
 
Does anyone know what pin headers on the mobo to use to put a regualar on/off switch as my PCI-ecard has maybe died & I want to test that the rest still comes on.
 
Chihiro said:
Does anyone know what pin headers on the mobo to use to put a regualar on/off switch as my PCI-ecard has maybe died & I want to test that the rest still comes on.
Click to expand...
Have you tried cleaning the pins with alcohol and strip and new thermo paste on the gpu
 
Trickyj99 said:
Have you tried cleaning the pins with alcohol and strip and new thermo paste on the gpu
Click to expand...
I meant the JVS/Fast IO PCI-e Taito board but thanks it looks like 2 chips fried.

I was only using it 2 days ago & turned it on last night & had nothing apart from 2 solid lights on the daughter board on he front of the case where you connect JVS/Fast I/O I tested the PSU with pins 4&5 & it comes on so took out the PCI-E Taito board & saw the melted chips.
 

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Oh my! Those do look a little crispy 8|
FYI, the JVS portion of that card is separate to the FastIO… you could still feasibly run it JVS only, although I may be inclined to remove the PCI-E connector in that case…
 
On Taito X3 what is the best upgrade processor and Grafic card we can add .Need to flash the Bios certainely but any risk ?
 
X3 supports up to Sandy Bridge processors.
You’ll need the latest motherboard bios to use UEFI gpus, but with that any modern card will be supported.
A GTX 780 is as high end as you can go with a non-UEFI support bios…
 
So after a few days of trying different things to get the Type X3 mobo to come on I gave up & looked for a old micro ATX mobo (9.6"x9.6") that supported Legacy bios boot, PCI-E 3.0, DDR3 1600 ram & LGA1155 socket & found the Intel Desktop Board DQ77MK to meet all these requirements & so got a used one on eBay & I also got a new PSU from Amazon as well as a pwr toggle switch, got it all fired up last night with the old components, i52400 + heatsink & fan, Twin frozen III gfx card, 8gb ram ect using my trusty JVS-PAC for controls, multi image so far has worked just as well as it did on the stock mobo.

Strangely enough after all that I gave the oem mobo a go again & the psu came on so something must of got disturbed for the better in the process so maybe I can get that going in the future to possibly sell on.
 
Well I could only run SFV on the high settings before as max would only get about 30fps so it looks like the Intel mobo is all good.
 

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Chihiro said:
I meant the JVS/Fast IO PCI-e Taito board but thanks it looks like 2 chips fried.

I was only using it 2 days ago & turned it on last night & had nothing apart from 2 solid lights on the daughter board on he front of the case where you connect JVS/Fast I/O I tested the PSU with pins 4&5 & it comes on so took out the PCI-E Taito board & saw the melted chips.
Click to expand...


I wonder if you were having the same issue I was. I would connect the AC power to the ttx3, but the PC would not power on. iirc, I would get a solid green light on this board.
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Using this same board, I was able to create a sudo switch by using the properties of capacitors. With the correct voltage rating and capacitance, you can create a temporary short across the power switch that would power it on. The perfect value that worked for me was a 10V 680uF capacitor. Do take note that too small of a capacitance would emulate a rapid power switch tap that is unrecognizable by the system. Too large of a capacitance would emulate a long press on the power switch which would power on then power off the system.

Here is how I soldered the cap to the board. Take note of the polarity of the cap.

1682408064031.jpg


I had this issue with two SFV cabs and one NesicaxLive2 cab. All three were fixed using this method. I haven't had issues ever since.

I hope this info helps you or anyone else with a similar issue.
 
Thanks :) I got solid green/red & no powering up I first of all knew something was up when I didn't hear the "hover" fan start up sound.

I've got another i5 2400 on the way to test the original mobo some more.
 
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