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Finally got my hands on a monitor, a 32GK850F-B, and I believe it'll work with this. I've just tried placing a preorder though and getting "This order can’t be shipped to the address you entered." - Are you not able/willing to ship to Norway?

Also, related: This monitor isn't in the monitor compatibility spreadsheet but a similarly named one is (32GK650F-B), however that one has the note that it needs a 100x100 sub-bracket. Is that the case for this?
 
Finally got my hands on a monitor, a 32GK850F-B, and I believe it'll work with this. I've just tried placing a preorder though and getting "This order can’t be shipped to the address you entered." - Are you not able/willing to ship to Norway?

Also, related: This monitor isn't in the monitor compatibility spreadsheet but a similarly named one is (32GK650F-B), however that one has the note that it needs a 100x100 sub-bracket. Is that the case for this?
I just installed a LG 32GQ850-B using the rev c bracket and it worked flawlessly. I think any of the LG monitors have a similar if not the same case design and should work.
 
Cheers, that's reassuring, because the 'sub-bracket' stuff is coming up blank for me. Still has to manage to be shipped to me over here though!
 
Cheers, that's reassuring, because the 'sub-bracket' stuff is coming up blank for me. Still has to manage to be shipped to me over here though!
It looks like that particular monitor is vesa 100x100 so you shouldn't need the extra sub bracket, I didn't for mine.
 
I have a Vewlix L, what is the best monitor to use ? I'm assuming I need a RevC bracket kit?

Im in Australia.

Thanks
 
I have a Vewlix L, what is the best monitor to use ? I'm assuming I need a RevC bracket kit?

Im in Australia.

Thanks
I’m using a lg 32gp850-b and I am happy with it. I don’t think you can buy an older revision from the maker and not sure why you would :)
 
Installed my Rev C with an LG 32GP750-B. Works great.

Observations:
  • During the install, I somehow didn’t notice the cutout on one side of the bracket, and I ended up putting it at the top. Is it for wire routing? It actually might have been handy on the bottom for access to the monitor’s input joystick, but I’m not motivated enough to redo the install right now.
  • I should have used the monitor for a bit before doing the install. Turns out that at any non-native res, it will display a warning for a long time, but it can be dismissed permanently with access to the input joystick… that I now can’t reach without redoing a lot.
  • The hardest part ended up being aligning the monitor within the Vewlix housing. Are people putting the housing down first, then the monitor face-down? Or the other way around? Or something smarter?
  • I was hugely relieved too find that I can just use longer M3s + nuts and skip drilling M4 holes and countersinks, since I was afraid of screwing it up (har har). Unless the M3 route is not recommended, IMO it should be the default in the instructions, not drilling for the M4 screws.

Questions:
  1. The Rev C came with four L brackets that I didn’t see mentioned in the instructions. What are these for?
  2. Do people transfer the transparent monitor “protector,” or is it permanenty attached to the old monitor?
 
I should have used the monitor for a bit before doing the install. Turns out that at any non-native res, it will display a warning for a long time, but it can be dismissed permanently with access to the input joystick… that I now can’t reach without redoing a lot.
Before installing, I kept the monitor out for a bit and plugged in everything I was going to use with the monitor i.e. ps4, xbox, etc.. and tweaked color/contrast position etc..just to make sure they all looked good before installing. Also set the monitor to turn on as soon as there was power.
Which leads me to the next point...

The hardest part ended up being aligning the monitor within the Vewlix housing. Are people putting the housing down first, then the monitor face-down? Or the other way around? Or something smarter?
Couldn't agree more. It took me a while to get mine right and ended up using lego pieces to hold the monitor in place while I positioned and adjusted it so it'd be centered. I started by placing it face, putting lego pieces, then raising it to gauge how centered/off it was and readjusting. If I had a glass table that'd be a lot easier!
If you are going to recenter it again, might be a good opportunity to also adjust the monitor for inputs and color balance etc...Just a thought though
 
Installed my Rev C with an LG 32GP750-B. Works great.

Observations:
  • During the install, I somehow didn’t notice the cutout on one side of the bracket, and I ended up putting it at the top. Is it for wire routing? It actually might have been handy on the bottom for access to the monitor’s input joystick, but I’m not motivated enough to redo the install right now.
  • I should have used the monitor for a bit before doing the install. Turns out that at any non-native res, it will display a warning for a long time, but it can be dismissed permanently with access to the input joystick… that I now can’t reach without redoing a lot.
  • The hardest part ended up being aligning the monitor within the Vewlix housing. Are people putting the housing down first, then the monitor face-down? Or the other way around? Or something smarter?
  • I was hugely relieved too find that I can just use longer M3s + nuts and skip drilling M4 holes and countersinks, since I was afraid of screwing it up (har har). Unless the M3 route is not recommended, IMO it should be the default in the instructions, not drilling for the M4 screws.

Questions:
  1. The Rev C came with four L brackets that I didn’t see mentioned in the instructions. What are these for?
  2. Do people transfer the transparent monitor “protector,” or is it permanenty attached to the old monitor?
I installed mine upside down the first time as well. It aggravated me so much I removed the rear casing of the monitor and soldered in an extension to the little lg nub which now sits where the original vewlix monitor controls were. Pain in the ass but worth it.
20230307_232727.jpg
 
I just made my own brackets instead of buying this, but I have access to tools not everyone does like a laser cutter. I think the Hadouken bracket is still a great idea.

One thing I did as part of my install though that might be helpful for everyone was 3D print brackets to perfectly center the monitor and hold it in place. There are a lot of ways you could apply that idea, even without a 3D printer.

For instance, if you're using one of the popular LG monitors that all have the same basic case dimensions as mine I could make a PDF with spacer measurements that you could print on paper, glue onto a piece of cardboard, and cut out. Lay the cardboard pieces in and use it to align your monitor.

I don't know how the the Hadouken bracket installs exactly, but the way I did it was lay the metal frame face down, put foam gasket around the edge, and then place the monitor face down on that. You don't need to see the front since the spacers will let you align it from the back.

Lemme know if that seems like it would be helpful.
 
That probably would be. I was lazy in my installation, and while I did have the monitor lined up perfectly, it *can* shift if you don't tighten everything perfectly. Having some spacers to shove in there would probably save some trouble and guarantee good positioning
 
Mine are held in place using the existing screws, but I guess you need those for the bracket.

Vewlix-3D-mounts.jpg
 
The included Lego pieces are for positioning but I think monitor specific spacers would be ideal. The only problem is not everyone has a 3d printer or the same monitor. Maybe a series of shims that can be installed permanently would be ideal. I just did mine (again because the monitor was damaged in shipping...you should always turn a monitor on before installing it.) I ended up using the white lego peices long ways, rather than stacking them, to space out the monitor from the top. I did it with the monitor face down in the frame. When tightening the vesa mount to the intermediate bracket, I pressed down on it to make sure it stayed flush when flipped around.


Mine are held in place using the existing screws, but I guess you need those for the bracket.
...

The Hadouken bracket actually uses the 3 middle bezel holes, not the original monitor mounting holes, so I think this approach could still be useful.
 
The only problem is not everyone has a 3d printer or the same monitor.
Right. For the first part that's why I was suggestion you could make cardboard spacers from a printed template. No special tools needed, print at home or at a local office place, glue onto cardboard, cut out with a knife or scissors. Everyone should have access to that.

The second part is legit, but it sure seems like we're mostly all using these similar LGs.

I made the PDF for everone, see attached file. Here's a preview of the PDF:

1678298022716.png
 

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