What's new
By:

Console JAMMAizer! Easily connect home consoles to your JAMMA arcade cabinet.

short question, since i'm now rocking recos on both cabs i don't need the remapping/autofire function any more - i there a simple way to deactivate that function? perhaps removing the jumper JP6 ?
 
kasaski said:
I think Arthrimus used this heatsink: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/heat-sink-to-220-14-fins-25mm-aluminium-black.html
Click to expand...

Right you are! So that just about settles it. Only last things are:
  • The dimensions for the VGA Hat standoffs
    • That is an easy thing I'd imagine
    • Soon as I find my digital calipers, I am on it
  • The dimensions for the 2x10 PCB stand-offs
    • I have that already and will post when i find it
  • And then the elusive IC for the button mapper
    • Now this is going to be a real pain due to the supply chain shortages
    • EDIT: actually, found them off eBay rather easily
IMG_5310.JPG
 
Last edited:
@kasaski, Do you remember what capacitor value you use for C13 (boxed in green)?

One a side note, boxed in red is a cosmetic error. C14 is listed twice. The aluminum electrolytic cap that is under the Player 1 MC PCB is also listed as C14.
 

Attachments

  • 1645292699060.png
    1645292699060.png
    314.7 KB · Views: 154
MoppelTheWhale said:
short question, since i'm now rocking recos on both cabs i don't need the remapping/autofire function any more - i there a simple way to deactivate that function? perhaps removing the jumper JP6 ?
Click to expand...
Access the programming mode for button remapping and autofire modes (LED's will light up). Each time you do, JAMMAizer wipes out the previous settings. So all you have to do is not program anything and exit out of programming mode each time you access it.

Quoted from the Manual:
Button configuration mode
1. Press and hold down two arbitrary buttons and the START button for 3 or more seconds.
After 3 seconds an appropriate status LED on the board will light up and buttons will no longer
register – this means the remapping chip has entered the button remapping mode and you
can release the buttons................

4. To exit the button configuration mode and save your new layout, press the START button.

Side note: Every time you access this mode, your previous layout will be erased and you will
need to set your layout anew. This is an easy and fast way to reset your settings.

Autofire mode
Press and hold down one arbitrary button and the START button for 3 or more seconds. After
3 seconds an appropriate status LED on the board will light up and buttons will no longer
register – this means it has entered the autofire mode and you can release the buttons.............

4. To exit the autofire mode and save the settings, press the START button.

Side note: Just like in the button remapping mode, your previous autofire settings are being
erased the moment you access the autofire mode. Consequently, if you want to reset all
autofire settings, just enter the autofire mode and exit it without pressing any button.
 
kasaski said:
I left mine unpopulated as its related to the remapping/autofire circuit and i didnt include that on mine to save some money. I assume its a 0.1uf filter cap as it looks to be on the 5v power line
Click to expand...
I'll pull mine off circuit and check the capacitance and report back then.

The chips required for the button mapper aren't too difficult to acquire, if I am not mistaken. Arthrimus says here that you can use the ATMEGA164 which I have found plenty in stock at Digikey still.

Also, the ATTINY87 chip is only used for HOME/SELECT emulation and if you keep that jumpered at all times, I don't think it is required as it is disabled. I measured it out on my JAMMAizer anyway and found that it is in SOIC package, so it should correspond to this chip: ATTINY87-SURCT-ND.

EDIT:
  • Height on the MC PCB standoffs are 16mm and are M3 thread
    • Digikey US doesn't carry these (or I couldn't find them), so get them elsewhere
  • Height on the VGA hat standoffs are 18mm and should work for M2 thread/size
 
Last edited:
Alright, so C13 measured on my Fluke meter at 115nF or 0.115uF. So it is indeed a 0.1uF 0603 capacitor that is within 20% tolerance. The bad news.......as I was reinstalling it, it pinched out of my tweezers and slingshotted itself into the ether. Never to be seen again.

Ahhh, well. I am putting together a parts order to whip up five JAMMAizers. Will just add in a few extra caps.

EDIT: Found the cap in the ether and reinstalled it. All is well with my JAMMAizer again.
 
Last edited:
RealMFnG said:
Alright, so C13 measured on my Fluke meter at 115nF or 0.115uF. So it is indeed a 0.1uF 0603 capacitor that is within 20% tolerance. The bad news.......as I was reinstalling it, it pinched out of my tweezers and slingshotted itself into the ether. Never to be seen again.

Ahhh, well. I am putting together a parts order to whip up five JAMMAizers. Will just add in a few extra caps.
Click to expand...
Are you building spares, could I buy you one? 😇
 
RealMFnG said:
Access the programming mode for button remapping and autofire modes (LED's will light up). Each time you do, JAMMAizer wipes out the previous settings. So all you have to do is not program anything and exit out of programming mode each time you access it.
Click to expand...
I know that, that was not what i meant. I now i have the Jammaizer connected to a RECO, which i don't want to replace every time i use the Jammaizer. That's the reason i wnat to completely remove this functionality from the Jammaizer, otherwise i trigger the functionality an both devices at the same time, which, iguess, could get confusing.
 
MoppelTheWhale said:
I know that, that was not what i meant. I now i have the Jammaizer connected to a RECO, which i don't want to replace every time i use the Jammaizer. That's the reason i wnat to completely remove this functionality from the Jammaizer, otherwise i trigger the functionality an both devices at the same time, which, iguess, could get confusing.
Click to expand...
Ahh, k.

Your options probably aren't more feasible than unplugging the RECO each time, methinks. On the PCB under the button mapper IC, it says clearly "CUT TRACES IF USING BUTTON MAPPER IC". So with the traces uncut, the button signals must pass right through to the JAMMA edge. But seeing as the traces are cut since you have the button mapper IC installed, you'd probably have to remove the button mapper IC and reconnect the traces.

There is a jumper just above C13 shown in my previous post. I suspect if you remove the solder blob on that jumper, it supplies power the the button mapper IC. This is reversible, so give it the good ol' college try. I am thinking however, if you did this, your button signals will never reach your JAMMA edge connector because of the cut traces. But give it a shot at your own risk.
 
MoppelTheWhale said:
I'll try this later @RealMFnG reapplying the solder bridge makes it easily reversible .

Thanks
:thumbup:
Click to expand...
Instead of completely removing the remapping chip and trying to reconnect the cut traces underneath, you could map the controls to the default for your cabinet, then lift pin 1 and pin 28 of the remapping chip out of the vias on the PCB. This will remove the P1 and P2 start button inputs from the remapping chip, effectively locking it from entering remapping mode unless the connection is restored. That should be a lot less work.

Also @RealMFnG I'm happy to see that you guys have pretty much figured out what you need to do to build these. Sorry I never really got around to putting out detailed build documentation. I do want to clear up a few things about the setup process and what each of the jumpers are for.

  • JP1: Sets the supply voltage of the audio amp. I set it to 12v on the production model, but you can use 5v if you have a reason not to use 12v with a particular cab. Using 5v does limit the volume you get though so I would generally recommend 12v
  • JP2 and JP3: Bypass the start button signals for the Home/Select emulation chip. If you don't want/need the emulation you can omit the chip entirely and just bridge JP2 and JP3.
  • JP4: Not marked but located under the audio output capacitor at the jamma edge. Bypasses the output capacitor for the audio circuit, meant only for future use in the event of a different audio amp being used.
  • JP5: Speaker ground, in 99.99% of cases you should close this jumper, but leave it open with NEO-GEO MVS cabinets this in theory could avoid potential damage the the stereo amp.
  • JP6: This jumper electrically isolates the Home/Select emulation chip from the main 5v rail of the JAMMAizer. This is meant to be open while programming the Home/Select emulation chip from the ISP header located above the button remapping chip. Once the Home/Select emulation chip is programmed you need to close this jumper to power the Home/Select emulation chip.
Also a tip about the order of operations for assembly. You can add all of the SMD components first, but make sure you program the Home/Select emulation chip before you add the button remapping chip. If both are installed before programming the Home/Select chip you will get bus conflicts on the ISP bus and the emulation chip will fail to program. In the event that you accidentally do this anyway, you can still program the Home/Select chip, but you will have to have the JAMMAizer plugged into a cabinet or supergun to power the button remapping chip so it's I/O is floating and won't interfere with your programming operation.

As for the button remapping chip, I recommend programming it externally before you install it if you can. The original JAMMAizer PCB was not designed with reprogramming the button mapping IC in mind, so it doesn't have a programming header exposed. You might also want to socket the remapping chip. I didn't do that in the production version because I didn't expect to ever need to upgrade the chip, but also because it saves vertical space under the controller PCB which was important for the MC Cthulhu EZ PCB since it is so tall once fully assembled.
 
Last edited:
Hey hey hey @Arthrimus! Hope all is well during these crazy times.

The solder blob thing on JP6 is all speculation too. EDIT: No longer speculation after Arthrimus updated the previous post. Thanks again brutha!
 
Last edited:
xb74 said:
@RealMFnG Very late to the party I know - is there a prospect I could acquire one of your built Jammaizer units? Happy to trade or swing some funds your way of course.
Click to expand...
I could use a sheila .)

I should have an extra one in this round. Still acquiring components, parts, and tools for the job. Will work out the details then.
 
Arthrimus said:
Also a tip about the order of operations for assembly. You can add all of the SMD components first, but make sure you program the Home/Select emulation chip before you add the button remapping chip. If both are installed before programming the Home/Select chip you will get bus conflicts on the ISP bus and the emulation chip will fail to program. In the event that you accidentally do this anyway, you can still program the Home/Select chip, but you will have to have the JAMMAizer plugged into a cabinet or supergun to power the button remapping chip so it's I/O is floating and won't interfere with your programming operation.

As for the button remapping chip, I recommend programming it externally before you install it if you can. The original JAMMAizer PCB was not designed with reprogramming the button mapping IC in mind, so it doesn't have a programming header exposed. You might also want to socket the remapping chip. I didn't do that in the production version because I didn't expect to ever need to upgrade the chip, but also because it saves vertical space under the controller PCB which was important for the MC Cthulhu EZ PCB since it is so tall once fully assembled.
Click to expand...
Just to be certain, but I had planned on programming the ATTINY87 and the ATMEGA16x out of circuit. Then soldering them in.

Any issues with that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top