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Console JAMMAizer! Easily connect home consoles to your JAMMA arcade cabinet.

finally, after almost a year i got around to fix my jammaizer which was unusable because i f'ed up when i tried to update my remapping chip.

Well, it turns out the update works perfectly fine once you mange to correctly download the hex file from github X/

god i hate that site, so utterly unintuitive.

At least my buttons are working again and i can play the cave 360 ports again on my cab...

Now i need to find a way to get a 240p hdmi signal from the retrotink 5xpro into the jammaizer, the hdmi to scart converter i got doesn't recognize the output signal from the retrotink.
 
Anyone tried gun games with the jammaizer? I try to play sega saturn gun games on my sega blast city and the gun detection is not working . I only get shot inputs in the middle on the blast’s crt . Every aim outside of the middle of the screen is detected as « reload »

Any clue ?
 
First thing i tried when i got the Jammaizer at the time was the DC version of House of the Dead 2 on my Blast City - did't work for me either.

I'll try again later because i can't remember what exactly the problem was. I think i used my RGB-Scart cable at the time and stayed in 15khz mode.
Also, y Blast City has some serious convergence problems in the corners, i don't know if that could affect the lightgun usage. 31khz mode of the tube also is extremly wonky (or i haven't set it up correctly) that's why i never use it.:unsure:
 
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kasaski said:
Cant find the exact BOM but here's my cart from digikey which should help: https://www.digikey.com.au/short/ndfn3tfw a few parts are on backorder but alternatives should be easy to find.

It includes the parts needed for the VGA input hat and extras of a the 0603 components so double check quantities if you want to save a little money. You will need to source a scart connector from ebay or aliexpress and a heatsink for the power resistor. I think Arthrimus used this heatsink: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/heat-sink-to-220-14-fins-25mm-aluminium-black.html

Please be aware this doesnt include the ic's needed for the button remapping and rapidfire features.

https://github.com/Arthrimus/Console-JAMMAizer gerber files can be found here if you want to order through another pcb manufacturer, gold plating and a chamfered edge connector are recommended
Click to expand...
If anyone in the US put in an order for pcb's and has a spare for one, I'm looking at putting one together. Thanks
 
kasaski said:
Cant find the exact BOM but here's my cart from digikey which should help: https://www.digikey.com.au/short/ndfn3tfw a few parts are on backorder but alternatives should be easy to find.

It includes the parts needed for the VGA input hat and extras of a the 0603 components so double check quantities if you want to save a little money. You will need to source a scart connector from ebay or aliexpress and a heatsink for the power resistor. I think Arthrimus used this heatsink: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/heat-sink-to-220-14-fins-25mm-aluminium-black.html

Please be aware this doesnt include the ic's needed for the button remapping and rapidfire features.

https://github.com/Arthrimus/Console-JAMMAizer gerber files can be found here if you want to order through another pcb manufacturer, gold plating and a chamfered edge connector are recommended
Click to expand...
Replicated this cart using Excel for US orders: REMOVED THE DIGIKEY CART - TONS OF ERRORS WERE IN IT>

EDIT:
  • Revised the cart and removed the backordered parts with instock/available parts. I believe it is correct.
    • Use this cart instead: REMOVED THE DIGIKEY CART - Tons of errors in it.
  • Also, noticed there are not any standoffs for the MC PCB's and VGA hat in the cart. So you'll need to add those too.
 
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Can someone do me a favor and and convert the diptrace file for the VGA Hat to a gerber file and post it here for me?
 
kasaski said:
Cant find the exact BOM but here's my cart from digikey which should help: https://www.digikey.com.au/short/ndfn3tfw a few parts are on backorder but alternatives should be easy to find.

It includes the parts needed for the VGA input hat and extras of a the 0603 components so double check quantities if you want to save a little money. You will need to source a scart connector from ebay or aliexpress and a heatsink for the power resistor. I think Arthrimus used this heatsink: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/heat-sink-to-220-14-fins-25mm-aluminium-black.html

Please be aware this doesnt include the ic's needed for the button remapping and rapidfire features.

https://github.com/Arthrimus/Console-JAMMAizer gerber files can be found here if you want to order through another pcb manufacturer, gold plating and a chamfered edge connector are recommended
Click to expand...
@kasaski, do you know the dimensions/specs for the VGA hat stand-off?

I believe I have spare standoffs for the MC PCB's, so should be good in that regard. Also, I made sure I took advantage of the bulk SCART connectors that Arthrimus bought back in the day and picked up a few from him, so I am good there too.

The only things up in the air are if the heat sink you linked is the the correct one. And what is the proper ATMEGA16 chip to use for the button remapper.
 
RealMFnG said:
@kasaski, do you know the dimensions/specs for the VGA hat stand-off?
Click to expand...
I couldn't quite work out the proper standoffs in time for my digikey order when i made mine so i hacked something together with some small piping I had laying around for model making, they were cut to be 15mm tall. The holes for them are 2mm wide, so I would think anything smaller than m2 threads and 15mm tall standoffs should work.

edit: I think the Atmega chip is a ATMEGA16A-P, fairly hard to get from authorised sellers at the moment
 
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I got tired of waiting :( , and bought tim worthington jamma driver.

I finally assembled it last week and it works fantastic
 

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serge85 said:
I got tired of waiting :( , and bought tim worthington jamma driver.

I finally assembled it last week and it works fantastic
Click to expand...
I own both JAMMAizer & SCART2ARC3 and have used both for over 2 years now and can speak on the merits of both.

TL;DR: I use both quite often. Knowing what I know, and given availability circumstances, I would just grab SCART2ARC3. Some shortcomings with getting it into a state of usability at the beginning, but after those challenges have passed, Tim Worthington's SCART2ARC3 is a fine product.

JAMMAizer Pro's:
  • Single unit device w/self contained mounting for MC PCB's
  • Does not need to be mounted to a PCB backing board
  • Excellent usability with a built-in button remapper
  • Has an option for CHAMMA connection for those unfortunate souls with a cab wired (rigged) as such
  • Has a separate video channels for SCART and VGA connections, which I feel makes reconnecting different video sources easier
  • Someone in the future might be able to make a daughter board that will connect a MiSTer, relatively easily
    • EDIT: You can use MiSTer and JAMMAizer today. But powering MiSTer has to be done separately. A daughter board, if one is ever made, should be designed to pull power for the MiSTer. This is what I mean by "relatively" easily
JAMMAizer's Con's:
  • It is currently OOP
  • Almost twice the price of SCART2ARC3
  • VGA connection option is an added expense, but this impacts both products
  • Don't mess with the RGB pots!! You'll have to balance them if you do. There is a possiblity that you can knock them off from their factory setting over time
SCART2ARC3 Pro's:
  • A slight advantage with still screens over JAMMAizer. JAMMAizer in my set up produced a barely visible wave in my NAC MS9 setup. SCART2ARC3 did not. Still screens on the SCART2ARC3 were astonishingly crisp. With screens during play, the artifact is not noticeable. SCART2ARC3 does win out when it comes to the image produced. But that is coming from an arcade snob. I don't think a typical user would notice.
  • SCART2ARC3 is readily available and ships fast even from the land down under
  • Has an option for amped stereo
    • Though, I'll never use such a feature, others might
SCART2ARC3's Con's:
  • A significant amount of assembly is required, but it is all through-hole soldering and doesn't require advanced soldering skills
  • The button mapper is done through manual jumper wiring and is a hot mess
  • You must mount both of SCART2ARC3's modules to a PCB backing board. It simply cannot freely hang off your JAMMA edge connector. I tried to let it freely hang in my cab and some things came loose
  • You must mount your controller device as well, whether they be pad hacks or MC PCB's
  • VGA connection option is an added expense, but this impacts both products
    • The VGA connection is a dongle off the SCART connection, which I am admittedly nitpicking about, but honestly don't like
      • EDIT: Going from VGA to SCART requires the removal of the dongle, which can be easily misplaced. Hence my distaste.
JAMMAizer was the first to adopt the 2x10 MC PCB standard allowing users to freely use what ever devices they chose for controller interfacing. All such devices before then, required users to buy proprietary console controllers (a set of controllers for each console), which from a user standpoint is a bit disheartening and downright silly. Arthrimus must have realized that companies such as Akishops, Brook, and and Toodles did this already and he didn't have to sink time into engineering into JAMMAizer controls interfacing. Simply put, why bother? Akishops, Brook, and Toodles did it already.

JAMMAizer wins out in my opinion. It holds a special place in my heart because of the previous paragraph and Arthrimus listened to the users as he was developing it. VGA hat was a user requested feature. It is just easier to get up to use than the others.
 
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kasaski said:
I couldn't quite work out the proper standoffs in time for my digikey order when i made mine so i hacked something together with some small piping I had laying around for model making, they were cut to be 15mm tall. The holes for them are 2mm wide, so I would think anything smaller than m2 threads and 15mm tall standoffs should work.

edit: I think the Atmega chip is a ATMEGA16A-P, fairly hard to get from authorised sellers at the moment
Click to expand...
Damn about the Atmega chip. But there is always the option of manual wiring. Also, if using MAME and I think MiSTER, button mapping can be programmed in software.

I have the dimensions for the MC PCB standoffs, so I'll add that to the US BOM. And I'll figure out the dimensions for the VGA hat. Most likely best to get that off of eBay or elsewhere.
 
T
RealMFnG said:
I own both JAMMAizer & SCART2ARC3 and have used both for over 2 years now and can speak on the merits of both.

TL;DR: I use both quite often. Knowing what I know, and given availability circumstances, I would just grab SCART2ARC3. Some shortcomings with getting it into a state of usability at the beginning, but after those challenges have passed, Tim Worthington's SCART2ARC3 is a fine product.

JAMMAizer Pro's:
  • Single unit device w/self contained mounting for MC PCB's
  • Does not need to be mounted to a PCB backing board
  • Excellent usability with a built-in button remapper
  • Has an option for CHAMMA connection for those unfortunate souls with a cab wired (rigged) as such
  • Has a separate video channels for SCART and VGA connections, which I feel makes reconnecting different video sources easier
  • Someone in the future might be able to make a daughter board that will connect a MiSTer, relatively easily
JAMMAizer's Con's:
  • It is currently OOP
  • Almost twice the price of SCART2ARC3
  • VGA connection option is an added expense, but this impacts both products
  • Don't mess with the RGB pots!! You'll have to balance them if you do. There is a possiblity that you can knock them off from their factory setting over time
SCART2ARC3 Pro's:
  • A slight advantage with still screens over JAMMAizer. JAMMAizer in my set up produced a barely visible wave in my NAC MS9 setup. SCART2ARC3 did not. Still screens on the SCART2ARC3 were astonishingly crisp. With screens during play, the artifact is not noticeable. SCART2ARC3 does win out when it comes to the image produced. But that is coming from an arcade snob. I don't think a typical user would notice.
  • SCART2ARC3 is readily available and ships fast even from the land down under
  • Has an option for amped stereo
    • Though, I'll never use such a feature, others might
SCART2ARC3's Con's:
  • A significant amount of assembly is required, but it is all through-hole soldering and doesn't require advanced soldering skills
  • The button mapper is done through manual jumper wiring and is a hot mess
  • You must mount both of SCART2ARC3's modules to a PCB backing board. It simply cannot freely hang off your JAMMA edge connector. I tried to let it freely hang in my cab and some things came loose
  • You must mount your controller device as well, whether they be pad hacks or MC PCB's
  • VGA connection option is an added expense, but this impacts both products
    • The VGA connection is a dongle off the SCART connection, which I am admittedly nitpicking about, but honestly don't like
JAMMAizer was the first to adopt the 2x10 MC PCB standard allowing users to freely use what ever devices they chose for controller interfacing. All such devices before then, required users to buy proprietary console controllers (a set of controllers for each console), which from a user standpoint is a bit disheartening and downright silly. Arthrimus must have realized that companies such as Akishops, Brook, and and Toodles did this already and he didn't have to sink time into engineering into JAMMAizer controls interfacing. Simply put, why bother? Akishops, Brook, and Toodles did it already.

JAMMAizer wins out in my opinion. It holds a special place in my heart because of the previous paragraph and Arthrimus listened to the users as he was developing it. VGA hat was a user requested feature. It is just easier to get up to use than the others.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the head ups, always useful to see user experience reflected, I'll go with Scart2arc3 for now and for button remapping I already have RECO pcb so it will be a good complement. Then I would surely buy jammaizer if it's back on stock.
 
MostroVeneno said:
T

Thanks for the head ups, always useful to see user experience reflected, I'll go with Scart2arc3 for now and for button remapping I already have RECO pcb so it will be a good complement. Then I would surely buy jammaizer if it's back on stock.
Click to expand...
You are welcome.

Don't forget to buy the VGA dongle when you swoop up SCART2ARC3. When I bought SCART2ARC3, it wasn't available. You'll need it for MAME and MiSTer and for those retro consoles for which you may already have a VGA adapter. Otherwise, you'll have to buy a SCART cable for those retro consoles which is a redundant expense. For instance, why buy a SCART cable for the DC when you can use your VGA adapter for the same purpose?
 
RealMFnG said:
You are welcome.

Don't forget to buy the VGA dongle when you swoop up SCART2ARC3. When I bought SCART2ARC3, it wasn't available. You'll need it for MAME and MiSTer and for those retro consoles for which you may already have a VGA adapter. Otherwise, you'll have to buy a SCART cable for those retro consoles which is a redundant expense. For instance, why buy a SCART cable for the DC when you can use your VGA adapter for the same purpose?
Click to expand...
Great great! Very useful to have a complete insight, thanks again I'll do
 
Barth0lin0 said:
Anyone tried gun games with the jammaizer? I try to play sega saturn gun games on my sega blast city and the gun detection is not working . I only get shot inputs in the middle on the blast’s crt . Every aim outside of the middle of the screen is detected as « reload »

Any clue ?
Click to expand...

I haven't tried this yet with Saturn but I have on PSX (Guncon) and NES (Zapper). Both worked great for me. I don't recall if this particular Astro City has the MS8 or MS9 in it, however. Can't tell you anything about a Blast City in this configuration, tho.

I did get inconsistent results with PS2 (Guncon2), where one gun worked perfectly while a different one could not be calibrated at all. I want to say it was probably an issue with the gun itself but I can't recall if I tested that one on an actual TV to confirm.

I have a Justifier in storage somewhere, so I still need to try out the Genesis and Sega CD setup. Maybe also one day with a SNES Super Scope if I can find one cheap enough.
 
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