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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

My multi was already set up in terms of the SD card before it came into my possession, but I'm fairly sure it's from a multipacks directory listing from a certain archival site. If people need more info beyond that just PM me and we can sort it out.
 
Zepherino said:
My multi was already set up in terms of the SD card before it came into my possession, but I'm fairly sure it's from a multipacks directory listing from a certain archival site. If people need more info beyond that just PM me and we can sort it out.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’ll do some research first before bugging you in PM’s. 👍
 
Easy question just to see if I got it right:

Will the HAS kick harness cable be compatible with the header indicated in the below picture ? (It is the cable that I use with my SF2 board - Kick harness for P1 and P2 of course))

Screenshot 2024-04-03 140614.jpg


This one to be precise
Screenshot 2024-04-03 142256.png
 
Is it normal that the CPS1 multi takes a while to erase a game when programming another? (First stage of the process when selecting a new game)

I haven’t used the CPS2 multi in a couple months, but from what I remember it pretty much starts programming the new game immediately or almost.
 
Hey all, could use a hand here, if anyone has a moment.

Helping a friend out, by installing the crystal mod, dipswitch mod, and case for a friend who had an already working CPS1 multi.

Voltage at the filter board is 5.05
C board is 92641C-1 w/battery (Swapped later during testing with a working 92641C-1 board with the battery removed.

We were testing the multi, using SF2HF rom that had been written to the multi before I touched it, and everything worked fine.

All dipswitches were off.


We powered down the cabinet, flipped on the dip switches for Demo Sound (C6) and Freeplay (C3, but I may have accidentally flipped C2 instead, as freeplay didn't activate)

We booted the game back up, everything was normal, and then suddenly there was corrupted graphics. Game still ran, sound still worked, but graphics were corrupted.

Powered down the cabinet and turned dipswitches back to off, and powered the cabinet back on. Corruption still present.

Wrote a new CPS1 game to flash memory, corruption still present.

Wrote a new CPS1.5 game to flash memory, corruption still present.

Pulled the board, did a complete re-seat on the multi, checked to make sure no jumpers were shorted, and replaced the Cboard with the working board w/out a battery notated above.

Graphic corruption still present.

So my question is this....if I did accidentally run the game with C2 dipswitch in ON, can anyone tell me what that might have done?
If I did get it right, and flipped C3, and freeplay didn't work, is there something that might have happened there?

I have a spare working multi, and a spare CPS1 SF2CE board to use as testers, so if swap testing is needed, I can do that, with no issues.

Thank you all for your guidance and time.
 
bagheera369 said:
Hey all, could use a hand here, if anyone has a moment.

Helping a friend out, by installing the crystal mod, dipswitch mod, and case for a friend who had an already working CPS1 multi.

Voltage at the filter board is 5.05
C board is 92641C-1 w/battery (Swapped later during testing with a working 92641C-1 board with the battery removed.

We were testing the multi, using SF2HF rom that had been written to the multi before I touched it, and everything worked fine.

All dipswitches were off.


We powered down the cabinet, flipped on the dip switches for Demo Sound (C6) and Freeplay (C3, but I may have accidentally flipped C2 instead, as freeplay didn't activate)

We booted the game back up, everything was normal, and then suddenly there was corrupted graphics. Game still ran, sound still worked, but graphics were corrupted.

Powered down the cabinet and turned dipswitches back to off, and powered the cabinet back on. Corruption still present.

Wrote a new CPS1 game to flash memory, corruption still present.

Wrote a new CPS1.5 game to flash memory, corruption still present.

Pulled the board, did a complete re-seat on the multi, checked to make sure no jumpers were shorted, and replaced the Cboard with the working board w/out a battery notated above.

Graphic corruption still present.

So my question is this....if I did accidentally run the game with C2 dipswitch in ON, can anyone tell me what that might have done?
If I did get it right, and flipped C3, and freeplay didn't work, is there something that might have happened there?

I have a spare working multi, and a spare CPS1 SF2CE board to use as testers, so if swap testing is needed, I can do that, with no issues.

Thank you all for your guidance and time.
Click to expand...
I installed the remote dip switches this week, and tried turning all them on, then off, to check that they were soldered correctly, and I used (I think) Final Fight (with the test menu dip switch on) test menu to check they were at the expected position. Other than one of them not being properly soldered (now fixed) everything has been fine.

Probably dumb question, but did you turn off all the dip switches on the A board?
 
gamezer0 said:
I installed the remote dip switches this week, and tried turning all them on, then off, to check that they were soldered correctly, and I used (I think) Final Fight (with the test menu dip switch on) test menu to check they were at the expected position. Other than one of them not being properly soldered (now fixed) everything has been fine.

Probably dumb question, but did you turn off all the dip switches on the A board?
Click to expand...

Yes, and metered them at the installed pcb to ensure they were working, before hooking up to the remote board.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
If you have a spare A-board I would swap the multi over to see if it follows the multi.
Click to expand...

Can the multi be run safely, without the Qsound and Reset jumpers, for testing in this case?

Or, do I need to have those jumpers installed, for it to operate at all?
 
@Darksoft
@Mitsurugi-w

So, I drug out my personal cps1 multi setup, did my crystal mod, tested my board and ensured it worked fine.

I then swapped the multi-pcb's between the two "A" boards (mine and friends), and the problem stayed with my friends "A" board.

So no my question is, would dipswitch 2 or 3 being on, have done something to kill an "A" board, or did whatever happened, just coincidentally happen at the same time?

With the garbled graphics, should I assume the A-01 custom on the "A" board is the issue?

Any further guidance is appreciated, and thank you both.
 
No chance that dip switches could harm your PCB as they are intended just to be used. The most commonly failing IC in the A boards is the A01, but could be well something else. I'd just buy another A board or take this one to someone who can fix it.
 
Darksoft said:
No chance that dip switches could harm your PCB as they are intended just to be used. The most commonly failing IC in the A boards is the A01, but could be well something else. I'd just buy another A board or take this one to someone who can fix it.
Click to expand...

K...thank you for the confirmation, and ya'lls time.

Will get that sorted with my friend.
 
The A-board I was first using with my multi just crapped out overnight a few months ago. Super frustrating. Wouldn't boot the multi at all but still worked ok with a street fighter 2 romboard...
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
The A-board I was first using with my multi just crapped out overnight a few months ago. Super frustrating. Wouldn't boot the multi at all but still worked ok with a street fighter 2 romboard...
Click to expand...

Good to know....with the graphic corruption, I don't think I'll get that lucky....but I have some sacrificial cps2 mobos for parts, and I can hopefully get a friend to go through it, and replace whatevers needed.
 
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