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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

Darksoft said:
Let us know how it goes with the new A board. A couple of pictures of your setup installed and of your C Board could also help.
Click to expand...

I'll do that when I get home. There are photos of the soldering points for the install on my board on page 25.
 
GhaleonUnlimited said:
Heyo, got my C board from a forum member, and I just wanted to make sure that all I need to do are the following :

1. I remove the battery, and
2. I need to remove the solder bridge on the bottom of the chip as pictured here.

Is that correct? Just don't wanna mess anything up. Thank you all, can't wait to play some Slam Masters on a real cab again!

PXL_20220705_160759733.jpg
Click to expand...


That board looks like it's already been modified and demodified. I don't see the battery, maybe its just not in the pic. The solder bridge is on three pins which means the two pins that were routed to 5V has already been removed from 5V and reconnected to ground (the third pin involved in the bridge on the right side) to make it back to stock.
 
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obitus1990 said:
I will try it...I only have one C (90631C-5) board, and will have to redo the battery mod (it had the two pins tied to 5V, to make it battery-less when I got it, so now those pins are tied back to ground) to it for it to work again I suppose.
Click to expand...
Eh, up to you. That would just be an easy way to confirm if the A board had developed the issue (or had it all along).
 
@ekorz
Will the C board still work if I undo the mod, or, does a key need to be programmed before it works again? I'm not 100% familiar with the CPS1 system yet. Also, does the GAL/PAL I installed on the A-board from the multi need to be pulled and replaced with the original as well?
 
@obitus1990 safest to swap the pal though honestly I wouldn’t be surprised if a cps1 game works with it. I think the difference is that the replacement pal adds Qsound but otherwise isn't different for normal cps1 games. @Darksoft might be nice and confirm that guess though ;)

The c board pins being tied high puts it into 'default' mode where it runs without keys and without a battery. If your board had no battery to begin with, and those pins were tied high, then you should be able to use it again just by pulling those pins high again. Up to you if it's worth the effort though!
 
Easy enough since I left the kynar jumper wire that was used to make it battery-less intact and just moved it to a ground point.
 
obitus1990 said:
That board looks like it's already been modified and demodified. I don't see the battery, maybe its just not in the pic. The solder bridge is on three pins which means the two pins that were routed to 5V has already been removed from 5V and reconnected to ground (the third pin involved in the bridge on the right side) to make it back to stock.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much! So appreciate the help!

Yeah, battery is on there. If that's all I need to do, then awesome!
 
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Hi. All. I have C-Board c-4 without battery. I deleted it because it was empty on the Three wonders Cps1. Can I use this for the Darksoft multi pcb? without modification?
 
Bjt said:
Hi. All. I have C-Board c-4 without battery. I deleted it because it was empty on the Three wonders Cps1. Can I use this for the Darksoft multi pcb? without modification?
Click to expand...
which model is it? Can you post a picture?
 
As it's stated in the instructions, that PCB is compatible. I see no sign of modding to it, so I'd say you are good!
 
I was delighted to get this working on the first try, since CPS-1 Multi was the specific thing that motivated me to finally learn to solder and I was nervous about de-bodging my C-board.

The audio for both CPS-1 and 1.5 games is garbled over JAMMA. It sounds like the sound is cutting out and in many times per second. Am I doing something dumb?

I also got "RAM ERR" once from The Punisher, but it went away after I tried a few more games and came back to it.
 
Check your solder points again to make sure you’re on the right ones. Also ensure your PAL is changed over right and in the correct orientation. Also make sure your board stack is firm together alongside with the C-Board.

If you’re still having issues. Try another SD card. And post pics of the install here.
 
Returning to the problem I was having with sound constantly dropping out on all games.
I obtained another working board set and used its A-board. I have not yet noticed sound dropping out on it, and, putting the older A-board into the stack with
the new A-board's ROM board does not result in sound loss either. The newer A-board was modified to make it 12MHz by the end user I bought it from (bladeZX), while the prior one was a
factory DASH board. Both boards were of the same revision of short board. The ONLY difference I could spot between the two was that my original had a Hitachi branded 68000, while the newer one had an ST branded 68000. I have read recently on retro computer forums (Amiga specifically) that there is something DIFFERENT about Hitachi CPUs because some of the newer, user project expansions being made for the Amiga today have bugs that only arise when someone has a Hitachi branded 68000. If I remember correctly, there is a subtle timing difference in the HItachi that has been a known issue since back in the 1980s. This causes the Hitachi to overload the bus on the Amiga computer -- something to do with one being made via HMOS process and the other being CMOS process (HMOS would load the bus with errors). Could this be the issue?
 
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It rings a bell, probably some 68000 experts can shed some light here.
 
A QQ- where can the qsound.bin and firmware files be found? Cheers!
 
@obitus1990 can you share a picture of your DASH pcb please ?

Actually please share a picture of both. We need to see the complete pcb as well as the oscillator and silkscreen markings on the CPU.
 
@rtw
The DASH was depicted a few pages back (as you had requested previously -- I think your comment was that it looked pristine). Next time I am inside the cabinet, I'll snap pictures of the A board that is working 100% with the multi.
 
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