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CPS2 I/O Interface

KingSopz said:
coaxial cable
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That cable you got is a beast, its so rugged the thing is actually resistant to even flexing.
Beats the hell out of my first draft... A stripped right RCA audio cable. :whistling:

Glad you got sound working without having to make that drive back, jumpers... Who knew!
Wish I had seen some directions. :P
 
jassin000 said:
KingSopz said:
coaxial cable
Click to expand...
That cable you got is a beast, its so rugged the thing is actually resistant to even flexing.Beats the hell out of my first draft... A stripped right RCA audio cable. :whistling:

Glad you got sound working without having to make that drive back, jumpers... Who knew!
Wish I had seen some directions. :P
Click to expand...
Thanks @jassin000 you did your job flawless it was my mistake for misdirecting you with un clear instructions. :whistling: :D
 
The pico psu is very handy bud and sorts out the correct voltages for board, just wire up the relevant 12v and 5v the only advice I would say is the the cps2 uses just over 3amps and if your integrating a HDMI mod I would make sure when wiring up the 5v you do so over 2 pins of the 5v rather than 1 solder point as 1 solder point can only carry 3amp and use good cabling at least 22awg.
 
These pictures ARE NOT MINE! Credit goes to @ifixretro on Twitter. Here he's used Undamned Decoders and installed the Pico PSU.
 

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yuro said:
These pictures ARE NOT MINE! Credit goes to @ifixretro on Twitter. Here he's used Undamned Decoders and installed the Pico PSU.
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looks great. finally an answer to consolizing the cps2. Im curious to know if its possible to tap the 3p - 4p?
 
How do you get an analog RGB signal out from the board besides from a supergun? I am looking for an internal solution. I remember undamned made a PlayStation 1/2/3 output for his consolized cps2.
 
darksofter said:
RGB signal out from the board besides from a supergun
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You could trace the RGBs pins from the JAMMA edge back into the PCB with a multimeter in conductivity mode.
jamma_pinout.gif


Looking for a clever place to solder along the path (something like a unused/unfilled via junction or a resistor/cap leg.

Only word of warning is make sure you are grabbing the video signals between onboard components and the JAMMA edge...
Don't bypass any components necessary for proper video output/ie grab the signal too early before its processed onboard.
 
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Received my unit today after missing the courier yesterday, gave it a quick test with some ST and is working great.
Now just to fix up my messy ud-usb wiring situation ;(

Thanks RGB! :thumbsup:
 

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MRTCPS2 said:
Received my unit today after missing the courier yesterday, gave it a quick test with some ST and is working great.
Now just to fix up my messy ud-usb wiring situation ;(

Thanks RGB! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
so were you able to just plug the pico psu in and it worked? Mine wouldn't turn on at all.
 
FakeNoose said:
MRTCPS2 said:
Received my unit today after missing the courier yesterday, gave it a quick test with some ST and is working great.
Now just to fix up my messy ud-usb wiring situation ;(

Thanks RGB! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
so were you able to just plug the pico psu in and it worked? Mine wouldn't turn on at all.
Click to expand...
Yeah, just had to switch my wall outlet on which lights up my pico and then I moved the on/off switch on the I/O interface.
 
Does anyone know if the 12V line can be removed if you are using HDMI and not utilizing the sound amp in the CPS2?

I've received the Jamma connectors and board from OSHPark. Now I just have to wait for the remaining parts to be received from Digi-Key. Thank you RGB for sharing this project.

DSC00168.jpg
 
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xterc said:
I ordered it from OSHPark and selected the 'After Dark (Black Substrate + Clear Mask)' option.
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You have a lovely setup!
When you look at the progress here this is really arcade 2.0 we've arrived at.
I really enjoy your choice of supergun stick, I too use a gutted matcatz tvsc (100% same body type).
 
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