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Custom JVS I/O - MEGA JVS

Just to clarify and not confuse this project with the other JVS project going on with USB compatibility; this pcb would be a direct replacement for a Type 1 I/O at a reasonable price and offers some mapping abilities so basically if a game "requires"a Type 2 or Type 3 board, this board can be mapped to serve in that capacity? It is a universal JVS I/O Board and can be used with virtually any JVS game due to the mapping ability?

Does it allow for the mapping of various peripherals to be used with JVS systems? Or perhaps that is the other project that would allow for USB peripherals on Sega arcade hardware. Just want to make sure and not confuse it with the other project.

Great project and awesome work! Just wanted to clarify all the features and options with it as many things were discussed in the forum during development.

Thanks.
 
winteriscoming said:
All through-hole components.

-1 60 pin header
-1 26 pin header
-1 resistor
-4 diodes
-1 5 pin header
-1 4 pin header
-probably 7 3-pin MOSFETS
-maybe up to 50 header pins for plugging into the Arduino - not sure on final count of populated pins
-maybe a few optional headers

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
Click to expand...
Ok. Similar to my S-JIHP. If you want I will buy one kit from you and assemble it to see how long it takes. I may be able to help as well.

BTW, I can do surface mount assembly so if you want to use some SMD components to simplify your final design that would be ok. If you had a different type of help in mind just let me know.
 
I can't speak for the rest, but I know @Mitsurugi soldering skills and they are good :)

Ideally I can help you to take this project a step up and convert it to a SMD board with the arduino's AVR already integratedin one single PCB.
 
arcadeWC said:
Does it allow for the mapping of various peripherals to be used with JVS systems? Or perhaps that is the other project that would allow for USB peripherals on Sega arcade hardware. Just want to make sure and not confuse it with the other project.
Click to expand...
I'm not planning for USB peripherals. @'invzim''s project looks to accommodate that quite well and I don't want to horn in on that space.

arcadeWC said:
Just to clarify and not confuse this project with the other JVS project going on with USB compatibility; this pcb would be a direct replacement for a Type 1 I/O at a reasonable price and offers some mapping abilities so basically if a game "requires"a Type 2 or Type 3 board, this board can be mapped to serve in that capacity? It is a universal JVS I/O Board and can be used with virtually any JVS game due to the mapping ability?
Click to expand...
It's still a work in progress on the software side, but that's the basic idea. It accepts the wires from your cabinet and can remap the controls as the motherboard sees them so that other games are playable with your cab's controls. For any game requiring a board with more features than the Type 1 has, the additional features can be faked. However, if a game required a Type 3 and you were hoping for more than 6 output lamps, I'm not really planning for that. You can get the game to boot by telling it you have Type 3 features, but you'd have to manage picking and choosing which outputs you prioritize and map to the lamps in your cab.

For example, my OR2 cab has only 2 lit buttons. One for Start and one for View Change. If I boot a game that has 3 lit buttons, my cab can only accommodate 2 of them (unless I retrofit a 3rd button in) so I have to decide which in-game lamps I want to align with my cab's buttons/lamps.

I mostly designed this with driving cabs in mind as that's all I have, but I suppose it could be useful for other types of games, I just don't have specific examples. Can anyone think of examples of a given cabinet configuration that has enough controls, but they just don't align with a given game?

My best example for that is Crazy Taxi High Roller booted in OR2. OR2's cab has enough controls, but they don't map up. With my board in place I can have the shifter work for forward/reverse and the View Change button becomes Jump.

The other thing I'm not sure of is response time. If you were using this board in a fighting game, is it responsive enough? The game sends out requests for inputs and the board reads the inputs and responds. As far as I can tell, I'm responding quickly enough to every request, but I haven't mapped out full blown 2 player controls and tested it out. I generally only have to poll about 5 digital inputs and 3 analog inputs for my cab. Do fighting cabs even use Type 1 I/O's, though?

I'm not sure when I'd get a chance, but I could build an adapter for the 60-pin header to a JAMMA edge and see how games play in my Neo Geo cab.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
winteriscoming said:
All through-hole components.

-1 60 pin header
-1 26 pin header
-1 resistor
-4 diodes
-1 5 pin header
-1 4 pin header
-probably 7 3-pin MOSFETS
-maybe up to 50 header pins for plugging into the Arduino - not sure on final count of populated pins
-maybe a few optional headers

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
Click to expand...
Ok. Similar to my S-JIHP. If you want I will buy one kit from you and assemble it to see how long it takes. I may be able to help as well.
BTW, I can do surface mount assembly so if you want to use some SMD components to simplify your final design that would be ok. If you had a different type of help in mind just let me know.
Click to expand...
Sounds good. I've not gotten into SMD soldering yet.

Darksoft said:
Ideally I can help you to take this project a step up and convert it to a SMD board with the arduino's AVR already integratedin one single PCB.
Click to expand...
That would be pretty cool! A concern I would have is the potential to kill the board by wiring up incorrectly. In the case of using an off the shelf Arduino board, it's generally just a matter of replacing the board and you're good to go. So far I've killed 2 MEGAs and 1 MAX485 module, and it was easy to swap in replacements. I'm happy to discuss options, though. Having it all in one board would be nice.
 
Pyves said:
What about an extra button?
If you press it while a gear is active, it goes neutral, for new race start or while drifting.
If you press it while neutral, it goes to the previous shift (or, depending the game, to 1st gear for a new race start).
I don't know if it's feasible but it might be a solution.
And that kind of shifter could do the trick :
IMG_0272.JPG
I hope my explanations are understandable as my English is not so good 8| :/
Click to expand...
That's a good suggestion, though I've seen that type of shifter online and I think it's the kind that stays in position rather than self-centering. I'm not sure how well that would work in games that utilize the self-centering aspect.
 
Yes. Fighting game use a type 1 just fine. A lot of people use Capcom I/Os for fighting games but I have evolved beyond JAMMA. lol.

My S-JIHP handles remapping buttons with jumper wires since I don't have the skills to program software based remapping but it will still work great with your project since it will use the Type 1 connectors. My S-JIHP is great for people not using a cabinet as you can use the same modded controls via DB25 connectors.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
Yes. Fighting game use a type 1 just fine.
Click to expand...
I didn't mean CAN they use Type 1. :D
I meant are there cabs designed for fighters that use a Type 1 in the stock configuration, as in they've got the 60-pin connector ready to go to plug into a Type 1.

I was thinking more along the lines of this board being a drop-in replacement for Type 1 cabs, but hadn't considered using it outside of a cab.
 
Hmm good question. I think Naomi kits used mostly the JAMMA converters for fighters. But I wonder what I/O fighters on Lindbergh used like VF5 for example. I think you can use the Capcom I/O for VF5 (anyone confirm?) but I'm sure they weren't still using JAMMA JVS I/Os then.
 
I had asked in another thread about 12v on these I/Os. I was looking over the ID4 manual and noticed that it uses 12v to power some lamps.

On an unrelated note: An odd issue I'm seeing in ID4/5 on Lindbergh is that even though I have start and view change lamps mapped up correctly and testing fine in output tests, I never see these lamps lit in-game. I'm still reporting Type 1 features and this game uses some outputs on the extra connector on the Type 3, so maybe it disables all outputs if not on a Type 3.
 
I did a quick test with WMMT and gear management logic in my I/O software with the 2-position shifter and totally have it playable in manual transmission mode!

At the moment I'm ignoring neutral. I'm not entirely sure how necessary neutral is to this game. When I played with the 6 position shifter I tended to drift in neutral, but not sure if that's what you're supposed to do.

I just went through an early race with the 2 position shifter and was able to drift ok by tapping the brake and shifting down and won. I'll test it to some more to see how well this works.
 
Here's a quick video of the 2-way shifter in WMMT's input test menu:

@invzim, if you want to accommodate for this, the gear states are in the 2nd byte of player 1's controls on buttons 3, 4, 5 and 6, so basically the leftmost 4 bits. The test screen conveniently shows the binary interpretation of these bits per gear:
Gear 1: 1010
Gear 2: 0110
Gear 3: 1000
Gear 4: 0100
Gear 5: 1001
Gear 6: 0101

How I'm handing the logic is by reading the inputs on the 2-way shifter and keeping track of the gear, starting in gear 1. The changes simply increment/decrement a gear variable keeping it between 1 and 6 (i.e. lowest is 1, keep hitting shift down and it stays on 1). When the game polls for switch inputs, I check which gear I'm in and combine the necessary bits onto the player 1's 2nd byte.
 
winteriscoming said:
Here's a quick video of the 2-way shifter in WMMT's input test menu:

@invzim, if you want to accommodate for this, the gear states are in the 2nd byte of player 1's controls on buttons 3, 4, 5 and 6, so basically the leftmost 4 bits. The test screen conveniently shows the binary interpretation of these bits per gear:
Gear 1: 1010
Gear 2: 0110
Gear 3: 1000
Gear 4: 0100
Gear 5: 1001
Gear 6: 0101

How I'm handing the logic is by reading the inputs on the 2-way shifter and keeping track of the gear, starting in gear 1. The changes simply increment/decrement a gear variable keeping it between 1 and 6 (i.e. lowest is 1, keep hitting shift down and it stays on 1). When the game polls for switch inputs, I check which gear I'm in and combine the necessary bits onto the player 1's 2nd byte.
Click to expand...
Great work.
 
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winteriscoming said:
I had asked in another thread about 12v on these I/Os. I was looking over the ID4 manual and noticed that it uses 12v to power some lamps.

On an unrelated note: An odd issue I'm seeing in ID4/5 on Lindbergh is that even though I have start and view change lamps mapped up correctly and testing fine in output tests, I never see these lamps lit in-game. I'm still reporting Type 1 features and this game uses some outputs on the extra connector on the Type 3, so maybe it disables all outputs if not on a Type 3.
Click to expand...
I'm 80% positive my ID5 setup uses a Type 1. I'll confirm on my end today. Try testing the Start and View Change lamps during the license creation screen. If you don't have the card readers to test this, they may or may not light up at the end of the no card use screen. Any other time they don't light up. The view change screen will light up during the demo screens to browse through the time attack scores and top scores.
 
winteriscoming said:
If I can get pin for pin compatibility with Type 1 I/O, who would be interested in one of these boards?

I'm looking into maybe ordering a small batch of boards.

I wasn't originally looking to manufacture and sell these, but it looks like I can get boards manufactured at a decent price in small batches (maybe under $10). I'd be interested in getting a few nice looking commercially manufactured boards for myself. I might be willing to facilitate an order of boards and sell them unassembled at a minimal markup. Everything is through-hole, so soldering them together yourself shouldn't be too bad if you have basic soldering skills.

Maybe with DIY assembly and all components included (you supply the Arduino, though), we could be looking at $25 plus shipping.

I personally don't want to be involved in selling assembled boards. It's not something I enjoy doing enough and I doubt I would feel properly compensated for my time spent doing it.

Anyone want to partner on this? If someone really enjoyed assembling boards and managing communication with buyers, I'd be more than happy to partner up.

Otherwise this project is probably just going to result in code and plans being posted (which I still want to do anyway) but nothing else really available.

I'm not really looking to make money on this project, but I also don't want to put all of this out there and someone takes it and starts making money off of it without having been involved in any of the work. So what's the middle ground while keeping it open source? Maybe I just share code and a schematic without the specific board design?
Click to expand...
You should get credit for your work. You could probably sell the hardware and have the user self-install. As for the source code, would you be able to lock it into a controller and sell the chip for users that did not contribute?
 
freddiefiasco said:
I'm 80% positive my ID5 setup uses a Type 1. I'll confirm on my end today. Try testing the Start and View Change lamps during the license creation screen. If you don't have the card readers to test this, they may or may not light up at the end of the no card use screen. Any other time they don't light up. The view change screen will light up during the demo screens to browse through the time attack scores and top scores.
Click to expand...
I don't know if ID4 and 5 on the multikit are hacked or something, but both of them seem to boot straight into starting a game and selecting a car. I don't see any attract mode, and never have to coin up, in spite of coin settings not being on free play. Maybe there's a setting I'm missing?

If view change doesn't light during a race on the stock game, I guess I don't have anything to worry about.
 
winteriscoming said:
freddiefiasco said:
I'm 80% positive my ID5 setup uses a Type 1. I'll confirm on my end today. Try testing the Start and View Change lamps during the license creation screen. If you don't have the card readers to test this, they may or may not light up at the end of the no card use screen. Any other time they don't light up. The view change screen will light up during the demo screens to browse through the time attack scores and top scores.
Click to expand...
I don't know if ID4 and 5 on the multikit are hacked or something, but both of them seem to boot straight into starting a game and selecting a car. I don't see any attract mode, and never have to coin up, in spite of coin settings not being on free play. Maybe there's a setting I'm missing?

If view change doesn't light during a race on the stock game, I guess I don't have anything to worry about.
Click to expand...
Both images on the multikit I have are vanilla. If you have the Card R/W function turned off, the lamps have a different behavior. If it helps with your project I will upload a video to show how and when the lamps light up. Attract mode is just the state of the machine when you're not playing but the game is running. So you'll see your last race or an AI race. Once the race is over the screens being displayed will be that of the Time Attack and Fastest Times for each course. This is when the View Change light will begin to blink. Once you press the View Change button, the left and right arrow keys will begin to flash as well.

I have not seen the view change button light up during actual gameplay.
 
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