what I did to see the earliest on the thread i responded just search by user name under the sales section granted that doesn't help with pms
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Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
@90sCyberThriller and the rest getting Windy II's- this is a good read:
https://www.gamestone.co.uk/gsrcade/arcade_information_konami_windy_ii.php
https://www.gamestone.co.uk/gsrcade/arcade_information_konami_windy_ii.php
@radiantsvgun Good site. That's where I was using pictures for reference.
This one has the manual along with the JVS->Jamma Adapter manual:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Konami_Windy_II
This one has the manual along with the JVS->Jamma Adapter manual:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Konami_Windy_II
you're mixing terminology:
isolation transformers have a 1:1 winding and are used to protect the AC source from a voltage back feed from an un-isolated monitor. these are found in old cabs from the 80s and early 90s before the isolation circuits started being integrated into the monitor chassis.
step-down/step up transformers have a 1:n winding and are used to increase or decrease the voltage when using a machine in a country with a different voltage.
There is a big difference between where these are placed as well, a Step Down or Step Up Transformer will be placed directly on the incoming power source because it needs to adjust the voltage for the whole machine. so not just the monitor but also the PSU and the marquee lamp or any other equipment in the machine. An isolation transformer is placed JUST on the AC line to the monitor, because it needs to isolate the monitor from everything else. If you put your isolation transformer outside the machine then your monitor will blow out your PSU, your marquee lamp or any other equipment attached to that AC line.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
The way it was explained to me years ago was that the transformers were Isolation transformers that also stepped down to 110. They are manufacturered in China/HK because this is a common problem with many items in that region as they are imported in from JP. I always took it as fact because Midway and Atari made similar iso transformers that produced weird voltages for sound/coin mechs/ect.
Learn something new every day I guess. Thanks for the info, I'll use then proper terminology going forward!
Learn something new every day I guess. Thanks for the info, I'll use then proper terminology going forward!
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I mean technically most transformers are isolation transformer, by the very nature of the way they work. but "isolation transformers" like those used in arcades are really "monitor isolation transformers" and they serve no other purpose other than their isolation properties.
Using Midway as an example MK2 and KI1 both had isolation transformers since they used WG K7000 or Hantrex Polo monitors which required them.
KI2 and MK3 used WG U2000 or other more modern monitors with built in isolation, and thus those cabs didn't include isolation transformers.
Some companies were clever and did indeed have dual purpose transformers.
Old Nintendo cabs like Donkey Kong had dual output 120 to 100V step down transformer so one output was used for the monitor and served as both a step down and isolation, while the other output was for the PSU, marquee lamp and service outlet so the design of the transformer allowed to both isolate the monitor and provide a step down. Not all step down transformers can function this way, the Nintendo transformer are built specifically for this.
Using Midway as an example MK2 and KI1 both had isolation transformers since they used WG K7000 or Hantrex Polo monitors which required them.
KI2 and MK3 used WG U2000 or other more modern monitors with built in isolation, and thus those cabs didn't include isolation transformers.
Some companies were clever and did indeed have dual purpose transformers.
Old Nintendo cabs like Donkey Kong had dual output 120 to 100V step down transformer so one output was used for the monitor and served as both a step down and isolation, while the other output was for the PSU, marquee lamp and service outlet so the design of the transformer allowed to both isolate the monitor and provide a step down. Not all step down transformers can function this way, the Nintendo transformer are built specifically for this.
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BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
^ This is some top quality info right there. That shit should be in a faq somewhere on the site.
Thanks dude.
Thanks dude.
Not all transformers are isolating. Autotransformers have only one winding. Many cheaper step up / down converters are like this. Don't make assumptions and always double check that it is indeed isolating.
ChuChu Flamingo
Enthusiast
There are actually two different types of isolation transformers that I know of. The ones you find today all link neutral and ground at the second primary side for EMI/noise cancelling.
If you're working on a live monitor you do not want that and you need to modify it into a technicians isolation transformer by severing the neutral/ground connection on the 2nd primary. Failure to do so can blow up dat oscilloscope or you if you touch even one point wrong.
If you're working on a live monitor you do not want that and you need to modify it into a technicians isolation transformer by severing the neutral/ground connection on the 2nd primary. Failure to do so can blow up dat oscilloscope or you if you touch even one point wrong.
For you those out there that have multiple Candy cabs and a 110 100 step down transformer, do you guys plug an AC strip/surge protector/or whatever you call those things into the 110 100 step down transformer to run all your Candy cabs? Or do you have one step down transformer for each of your cabs?
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Both works depending on the Wattage of your step down, don’t run 4 cabs of a 300w step down
Personally I have a 750w Airlink which has dual outputs for 2 cabs, but before I used a power strip on 1 500w step down for 2 cabs (which might have been on the edge...)
90sCyberThriller
Student
I plan on ditching the transformer and converting it to stock
I use a couple of these, does the stepdown, surge protection, battery backup, etc. Running these for a couple of years now, never an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YXW6MFI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1
Attachments
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PC4JL4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use 2 of these, with 2 cabs plugged into each with small 2 plug power strips.
I use 2 of these, with 2 cabs plugged into each with small 2 plug power strips.
I should probably get some of those. Never had any issues running my Blasts on 120v but better to avoid putting unnecessary strain on them if I can avoid it.
I used to use those and they work great in conjunction with surge protectors.
But for my needs.....we always have power issues here. Coastal life with overhead powerlines, etc.. during winter, so can always expect power lines to be down 1 or 2 times, or power outages a few times etc.. During summer brownouts, etc. expected. Everyone in the neighborhood is running huge central AC units, pool pumps, pool heaters, etc.. so you always get those dips in voltage levels, etc...
They have been converted back to stock/OEM. But stock/OEM means 100v AC as that is the standard in Japan. You can plug these 100v AC cabs into US 120v AC outlets and they'll run, at least for a while. But it is recommended for the life of these cabs to step down to 100v. Lots of horror stories out there of Candy cabs dying and it has been often attributed to running them off of 120v AC. Read up on it.
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