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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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Well my monitor turns on at least but the picture is pretty bad. This is off of an atomiswave. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow or the next day when I have more time to try adjusting the geometry but nothing changes with the front controls to improve it right now. Better than dead though!
 

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90sCyberThriller said:
Well my monitor turns on at least but the picture is pretty bad. This is off of an atomiswave. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow or the next day when I have more time to try adjusting the geometry but nothing changes with the front controls to improve it right now. Better than dead though!
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ya all that can be fixed with a rebuild on chassis
 
twistedsymphony said:
I would if I could but I'm pretty sure I have a larger collection of candy cabs than anyone else in NH, Nanao tubes are unobtainium around here.

I've got some other shitty monitors, I'll have to see if they can suffer a Nanao chassis.
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You just need a tube that matches the neck connector. It's a common single focus neck. Check on Tubular.

Then just connect the chassis to the yoke of the Nanao, anode cap and neck board to your guinea pig tube. You will get a bright dot in the center of the guinea pig (since there's no deflection), but at least you know it works. If someone smarter knows if it's OK to leave the yoke connector unconnected, then you don't even need the Nanao for it. I don't know if you need a load on it or not.

This all said, I'm absolutely certain that what happened to me is a very rare occurrence. I've never heard of it happening to anyone else. But it can happen.
 
+1 to how XeD's handling all this. I've watched a lot of these go real sketchy when things didn't show up as planned over the years, and I'm thoroughly impressed.
 
Pretty sure I already know answer but no good option for e2 illumination panel still? mine came all kinds of screwed up. Cracked in a bunch of pieces and glued back together then glued back in the top :(.

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The Egret II panel is injection molded. I think the way the plastics industry works is that the vendor supplying injection molded parts retains the molds. Companies just order the quantities needed and are charged for everything including tooling costs. This would prevent companies from taking the molds and going to another supplier to produce the parts for less. So once Taito stopped ordering them, and given that this was a one of a kind part, somewhere, someone just set aside the injection mold or the mold was re-cut for another mold. So there is no way to repro the illuminated panel exactly as how it was produced. If think about it, back when I was a kid, I would go to the Flea Market and see perfect replicas of G1 Transformer toys. The only difference was the color of the plastics. Like the Flea Market had orange Constructicons instead of the Day-Glo green and purple versions sold by Hasbro. Clearly, whoever Hasbro contracted to mold Transformers, just injected their own run in different colors. That is the problem with doing business with China.

In any case, @Cereth has @Rg111's busted panel. Cereth is going to stab at resin molding it or whatever method. It is one thing to repro the panel, it is another thing to produce the graphics. If Cereth can pull it off, great. I have access to a vaccuum forming machine and professional graphic artists if it gets that far. The point is to reproduce it as close to OG as possible and get it out to the community for those that need it.
 
its going down in price I think. Question is as I don't need one but would be happy to put some money in a pot to buy it. Would it help speed the process along to help for the community?
 
Just pulled the pb7534 and took measurements of the deflection yoke with an lcr meter.

Red/blue:
L: 0.23 mH
R: 2.0(?) Ohms

Green/Yellow:
L: 11.95 mH
R: 5.8(?) Ohms

The resistance values may be inaccurate, my meter was jumping around all over the place and I took them the best I could.

The inductance values should be pretty close to accurate.

About to try a Blast City chassis on this tube and yoke, wish me luck!
 
Ok well the green/yellow plug fits the Blast Chassis, but the red/blue does not (looks so close though!)... Looks like I'll have to make an adapter for that one.

In other news the existing AC input plug fits so the AMP up connector for video/power shouldn't have to be used. I'll just use VGA input like the Windy already used for video.

The degauss wire doesn't quite fit either and the degauss switch needs adapting. In all honesty I could live without degauss and the only real hurdle is the red/blue yoke wires to test this out.
 
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