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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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@BlinG ha, no but that’s a good idea. Maybe I’ll clean up my original and swap in the leds.

In other news I was drying my remote board and used too much heat. I lightly melted the trim pots :/ Go me. If anyone has theirs removed and handy, and can take the potentiometer value readings I’d be in your debt. Meanwhile I’m gonna try to find the values if they’re online anywhere. Just the little white ones.
 
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I finally got the majority of the Windy 2 clean. It has taken several weeks of on and off cleaning. In the end, I had to re-clean it with undiluted simple green again to cut through a lot of the mildew and yellowing. Its not quite as white as the picture makes it out to be, but its come a long way. Also, clean all the cables inside the cabinet, as they hold a lot of the odor. This is easily the grossest cabinet I have ever come across, and the even breaking it down, there are a lot of areas that are difficult to reach.

Ds9Nxjll.jpg
 
Well, got tired of messing with the Toshiba chassis.... I did everything I could do myself and seems like nobody was getting anywhere with a the regular repair shops. It would occasionally work, but if I turned it off and turn it back on or changed game it would just go back to a solid black screen.
My friend had a Nanao MS2931 chassis for me though. I popped it in in and it was pretty much just plug and play and it works! Just had to swap the power input wires around. Also need to wire up degauss but I need to make an adapter and find a way to mount the new chassis
Only issue is the image is already at Max width and I still have a 1in to 2in border and can't adjust it anymore in the OSD. I'm wondering if this is because I'm using the Toshiba yoke. Another friend might have a spare yoke from a blast City on a junk tube. Better than nothing though!
 

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8bitforlife said:
@90sCyberThriller what's the tube number

You can get to the extended features of the remote by holding down while the osd is off. Your lucky your tube is in ok shape.
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A68LBT696X which is the same tube as the 2931 chassis according to the arcade otaku wiki. It lists these specs
Toshiba A68LBT696X / MS2931 : H :0.9 Ohms V :6.8 Ohms

I did find the extended OSD menu but there is no extra horizontal adjustments like horizontal linearity or such like you see on some other chassis
 
90sCyberThriller said:
Well, got tired of messing with the Toshiba chassis.... I did everything I could do myself and seems like nobody was getting anywhere with a the regular repair shops. It would occasionally work, but if I turned it off and turn it back on or changed game it would just go back to a solid black screen.
My friend had a Nanao MS2931 chassis for me though. I popped it in in and it was pretty much just plug and play and it works! Just had to swap the power input wires around. Also need to wire up degauss but I need to make an adapter and find a way to mount the new chassis
Only issue is the image is already at Max width and I still have a 1in to 2in border and can't adjust it anymore in the OSD. I'm wondering if this is because I'm using the Toshiba yoke. Another friend might have a spare yoke from a blast City on a junk tube. Better than nothing though!
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Good stuff. You didn't have to lengthen the wires to neckboard?

Or did you raise the chassis up from the tray?
 
90sCyberThriller said:
I did find the extended OSD menu but there is no extra horizontal adjustments like horizontal linearity or such like you see on some other chassis
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Surprise, there are two extended menus.

The factory adjustment menu can be accessed by holding down all three buttons for 3 seconds. There you will find both H-LIMIT and V-LIMIT.
 
90sCyberThriller said:
Well, got tired of messing with the Toshiba chassis.... I did everything I could do myself and seems like nobody was getting anywhere with a the regular repair shops. It would occasionally work, but if I turned it off and turn it back on or changed game it would just go back to a solid black screen.
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Mine behaves the same way. I get a nice sharp image after a recap, but sometimes the tube won't power back on. Does your chassis display 15kHz and 31kHz both ? My 31kHz shows up with bad hsync and the image is all over the place horizontaly.
 
caxRRp8l.jpg


Alright, this guy finally lives, but not without sacrifice.

I am using the Nanao MS29-30-S. It is a drop in replacement for the toshiba. I did not have to change any of the connectors. I did have to raise the chassis up with a box and turn the chassis sideways to reach the neck. I will find a better solution eventually, but for now it works. @invzim- the jammafier is perfect for this job for reaching jamma over db15. I assumed my tri sync helper was bad, but if I don't use it, 15k looks like its bleeding. I have not tried the cab link yet.

Next up is to recap the chassis.
 
radiantsvgun said:
caxRRp8l.jpg


Alright, this guy finally lives, but not without sacrifice.

I am using the Nanao MS29-30-S. It is a drop in replacement for the toshiba. I did not have to change any of the connectors. I did have to raise the chassis up with a box and turn the chassis sideways to reach the neck. I will find a better solution eventually, but for now it works. @invzim- the jammafier is perfect for this job for reaching jamma over db15. I assumed my tri sync helper was bad, but if I don't use it, 15k looks like its bleeding. I have not tried the cab link yet.

Next up is to recap the chassis.
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did you get the psu rebuilt by sharp? Also any special connection changes did you have to do or make for that monitor chassis to work.
 
WWn3Hi8_d.jpg


Last thing on my list of unsolved problems is this water shield for the egret 2. It’s cracked in multiple places and filthy. Roughly 55cm x 25cm x 0.5mm.

I may try to clean it up and tape/glue the broken bits, but if anyone knows a source to just buy/make one lemme know! It seems easy enough to buy the proper plastic and cut/fold it to size, but I’m not sure what kind of plastic (Google fu is weak here) or how I might bevel it properly once I had it. Thinking my heat gun could work, but again before I just wing it myself I thought I’d post to see if anyone has tips. Thx!
 
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ekorz said:
WWn3Hi8_d.jpg


Last thing on my list of unsolved problems is this water shield for the egret 2. It’s cracked in multiple places and filthy. Roughly 55cm x 25cm x 0.5mm.

I may try to clean it up and tape/glue the broken bits, but if anyone knows a source to just buy/make one lemme know! It seems easy enough to buy the proper plastic and cut/fold it to size, but I’m not sure what kind of plastic (Google fu is weak here) or how I might bevel it properly once I had it. Thinking my heat gun could work, but again before I just wing it myself I thought I’d post to see if anyone has tips. Thx!
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This is missing on 2 of my Egrets. Wish someone could repro it.
 
DecepticonZero said:
All the drinks you guys are gonna be spilling into your Egrets....I can see why you would need this.

Seriously though, I'm all for authentic restorations, but sometimes you gotta know when to call it.

LOL :D
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honestly I was gonna throw this away but now that the rest is 99% done I figured why not

Gonna buy this Lexan and try cutting and folding it myself. Worth $10 and 10 minutes to try. If it turns out I’ll post, but otherwise yeah I may just omit this part ;)
 
All of those “water shields” crack and break over time. They’re good for catching screws and such but they’re not made to last. Pretty sure I chunked mine.
 
ekorz said:
WWn3Hi8_d.jpg


Last thing on my list of unsolved problems is this water shield for the egret 2. It’s cracked in multiple places and filthy. Roughly 55cm x 25cm x 0.5mm.

I may try to clean it up and tape/glue the broken bits, but if anyone knows a source to just buy/make one lemme know! It seems easy enough to buy the proper plastic and cut/fold it to size, but I’m not sure what kind of plastic (Google fu is weak here) or how I might bevel it properly once I had it. Thinking my heat gun could work, but again before I just wing it myself I thought I’d post to see if anyone has tips. Thx!
Click to expand...
https://www.traintekllc.com/plastru...G5KOlk8l16U3R3hInk30rU3qSOPUAbHhoC99kQAvD_BwE
 
DecepticonZero said:
All the drinks you guys are gonna be spilling into your Egrets....I can see why you would need this.

Seriously though, I'm all for authentic restorations, but sometimes you gotta know when to call it.

LOL :D
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Called it. it broke in like 6 places when I barely touched it ! ( I swear!)

not needed.
 
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