So here is the KLOV thread regarding flyback reproduction. security0001 is chiming in already with his experiences.
FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
@twistedsymphony no ball bearings, sorry to kill your buzz...
https://imgur.com/a/5ztms5S
Just some smooth sleeves over the bolts, rotating around hard (nylon?) wheels. There is one that’s longer than the rest, and it bolts through a back plate with a 90 degree arc cutout, so it can only rotate 90 degrees.
I’d grease the whole back plate, all the wheels, and the bolts... probably using general purpose stuff but I’m totally open for better ideas!
https://imgur.com/a/5ztms5S
Just some smooth sleeves over the bolts, rotating around hard (nylon?) wheels. There is one that’s longer than the rest, and it bolts through a back plate with a 90 degree arc cutout, so it can only rotate 90 degrees.
I’d grease the whole back plate, all the wheels, and the bolts... probably using general purpose stuff but I’m totally open for better ideas!
It doesn't sound very hopeful at actually getting a working result, but the 200 minimum pieces doesn't sound THAT daunting if they end up being truly around ~$7/piece delivered.
Honestly I'd buy a good working NOS one for $100... so if I'd need to get 14 instead at $7/pop I'd be totally fine with that. Then I'd have some spares to let go at price for anyone that needs one down the road, and plenty of spares for myself.
I think between all of us that got Windy 2's in this buy, we could easily hit the order minimum.
My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)
I am showing a price of $24.97. Where is the sale price listed at? Or did it end?
Lemony Vengeance
Champion
should have just done this in the first place, and I know I'm being a pedant here:I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but that's why it says "Manufacturer Lead Time: 16 weeks", and you absolutely can place an order. It just takes sixteen weeks.Quantity Availablenot happening, can't buy something that isn't in stock
0 
FYI, here's the link to Sanwa's shop on Rakuten:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/sanwadenshi/item/other_011/
By all means, use another easily found connector, but I'm pointing out that they are still manufactured and you can purchase them.
https://www.hirose.com/product/p/CL0507-0092-4-01?lang=en
They're discontinued.
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I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.
My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)
Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.
@BlinG ha, no but that’s a good idea. Maybe I’ll clean up my original and swap in the leds.
In other news I was drying my remote board and used too much heat. I lightly melted the trim pots :/ Go me. If anyone has theirs removed and handy, and can take the potentiometer value readings I’d be in your debt. Meanwhile I’m gonna try to find the values if they’re online anywhere. Just the little white ones.
In other news I was drying my remote board and used too much heat. I lightly melted the trim pots :/ Go me. If anyone has theirs removed and handy, and can take the potentiometer value readings I’d be in your debt. Meanwhile I’m gonna try to find the values if they’re online anywhere. Just the little white ones.
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Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
I finally got the majority of the Windy 2 clean. It has taken several weeks of on and off cleaning. In the end, I had to re-clean it with undiluted simple green again to cut through a lot of the mildew and yellowing. Its not quite as white as the picture makes it out to be, but its come a long way. Also, clean all the cables inside the cabinet, as they hold a lot of the odor. This is easily the grossest cabinet I have ever come across, and the even breaking it down, there are a lot of areas that are difficult to reach.
I get my Hirose connectors from here:
https://www.smallcab.net/2x28-pins-female-connector-jamma-hirose-p-827.html
https://www.smallcab.net/2x28-pins-female-connector-jamma-hirose-p-827.html
90sCyberThriller
Student
Well, got tired of messing with the Toshiba chassis.... I did everything I could do myself and seems like nobody was getting anywhere with a the regular repair shops. It would occasionally work, but if I turned it off and turn it back on or changed game it would just go back to a solid black screen.
My friend had a Nanao MS2931 chassis for me though. I popped it in in and it was pretty much just plug and play and it works! Just had to swap the power input wires around. Also need to wire up degauss but I need to make an adapter and find a way to mount the new chassis
Only issue is the image is already at Max width and I still have a 1in to 2in border and can't adjust it anymore in the OSD. I'm wondering if this is because I'm using the Toshiba yoke. Another friend might have a spare yoke from a blast City on a junk tube. Better than nothing though!
My friend had a Nanao MS2931 chassis for me though. I popped it in in and it was pretty much just plug and play and it works! Just had to swap the power input wires around. Also need to wire up degauss but I need to make an adapter and find a way to mount the new chassis
Only issue is the image is already at Max width and I still have a 1in to 2in border and can't adjust it anymore in the OSD. I'm wondering if this is because I'm using the Toshiba yoke. Another friend might have a spare yoke from a blast City on a junk tube. Better than nothing though!
Attachments
@90sCyberThriller what's the tube number
You can get to the extended features of the remote by holding down while the osd is off. Your lucky your tube is in ok shape.
You can get to the extended features of the remote by holding down while the osd is off. Your lucky your tube is in ok shape.
90sCyberThriller
Student
A68LBT696X which is the same tube as the 2931 chassis according to the arcade otaku wiki. It lists these specs
Toshiba A68LBT696X / MS2931 : H :0.9 Ohms V :6.8 Ohms
I did find the extended OSD menu but there is no extra horizontal adjustments like horizontal linearity or such like you see on some other chassis
I know there's a vertical one. Its weird there isn't one on the 2931 but on 2930
Good stuff. You didn't have to lengthen the wires to neckboard?
Or did you raise the chassis up from the tray?
Surprise, there are two extended menus.
The factory adjustment menu can be accessed by holding down all three buttons for 3 seconds. There you will find both H-LIMIT and V-LIMIT.
SnakeGrunger
Professional
Mine behaves the same way. I get a nice sharp image after a recap, but sometimes the tube won't power back on. Does your chassis display 15kHz and 31kHz both ? My 31kHz shows up with bad hsync and the image is all over the place horizontaly.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Alright, this guy finally lives, but not without sacrifice.
I am using the Nanao MS29-30-S. It is a drop in replacement for the toshiba. I did not have to change any of the connectors. I did have to raise the chassis up with a box and turn the chassis sideways to reach the neck. I will find a better solution eventually, but for now it works. @invzim- the jammafier is perfect for this job for reaching jamma over db15. I assumed my tri sync helper was bad, but if I don't use it, 15k looks like its bleeding. I have not tried the cab link yet.
Next up is to recap the chassis.
did you get the psu rebuilt by sharp? Also any special connection changes did you have to do or make for that monitor chassis to work.
Alright, this guy finally lives, but not without sacrifice.
I am using the Nanao MS29-30-S. It is a drop in replacement for the toshiba. I did not have to change any of the connectors. I did have to raise the chassis up with a box and turn the chassis sideways to reach the neck. I will find a better solution eventually, but for now it works. @invzim- the jammafier is perfect for this job for reaching jamma over db15. I assumed my tri sync helper was bad, but if I don't use it, 15k looks like its bleeding. I have not tried the cab link yet.
Next up is to recap the chassis.