FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

[arcadefanatic56]

Awesome repairs on some of these cabs.

Quick questions for you Konami Windy owners- Do you guys plug the cab to a step down converter or do you just use it with a power strip? Someone told me you could switch the voltage inside the cab around the power supply but I do not have one. I am looking to purchase one in the near future.

Thanks for any info!

 

[RealMFnG]

Awesome repairs on some of these cabs.

Quick questions for you Konami Windy owners- Do you guys plug the cab to a step down converter or do you just use it with a power strip? Someone told me you could switch the voltage inside the cab around the power supply but I do not have one. I am looking to purchase one in the near future.

Thanks for any info!

We are split down the middle on this one. Half say US 120vac is fine. The other half of us are adamant on using a step down. It certainly doesn't hurt to have a step down.

EDIT: [Wall->Step down->Surge protector->Cab] is how I have mine setup.

 

[Hedonism Bot 2.0]

Awesome repairs on some of these cabs.

Quick questions for you Konami Windy owners- Do you guys plug the cab to a step down converter or do you just use it with a power strip? Someone told me you could switch the voltage inside the cab around the power supply but I do not have one. I am looking to purchase one in the near future.

Thanks for any info!

I have mine via a surge protector. I am not familiar with what you mean "switching the voltage inside the cabinet."

 

[8bitforlife]

when i get my man cave setup i well use all step downs. Hawaiian power can spike all the time. it tosses the projectors off all the time here. I have to quickly reboot them. thank god the servers cache were movie is and when you go to restart it, its rewinded 5 minutes from where it turned off.

I am not taking any chances on my e2 e3 or windy2

 

[ekorz]

Not quite done, but after reinstalling the monitor and all the wiring I took a moment to celebrate not breaking the chassis or the tube.

For those keeping track, the lexan worked fine for a splash guard. It helps to have a tool to bend/flex it into the right bevel, but otherwise it’s crystal clear, cheap, and cuts with scissors. Bend it all first, then cut the inlet for the control panel area.

 

[8bitforlife]

Not quite done, but after reinstalling the monitor and all the wiring I took a moment to celebrate not breaking the chassis or the tube.

For those keeping track, the lexan worked fine for a splash guard. It helps to have a tool to bend/flex it into the right bevel, but otherwise it’s crystal clear, cheap, and cuts with scissors. Bend it all first, then cut the inlet for the control panel area.

pictures of the lexan please id like to see how you did it.

 

[Hedonism Bot 2.0]

Not quite done, but after reinstalling the monitor and all the wiring I took a moment to celebrate not breaking the chassis or the tube.

For those keeping track, the lexan worked fine for a splash guard. It helps to have a tool to bend/flex it into the right bevel, but otherwise it’s crystal clear, cheap, and cuts with scissors. Bend it all first, then cut the inlet for the control panel area.

Nice cleanup!

 

[kuze]

My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)

I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.
Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.

What sort of screen interference did you get with the fluorescent?

 

[ekorz]

@8bitforlife it’s transparent so it doesn’t photograph that well. Here’s a video of the lexan. It’s just supposed to channel liquid that, I guess, gets thrown at the screen and seeps inside. Judging from the gross state of my old one, and the rust that had accumulate on the sides of the cab inside, id say it worked once or twice.

@kuze I don’t notice any, but maybe you can judge, here’s a video (below the lexan video)

https://imgur.com/a/76Mv1Vn

 

[kuze]

@8bitforlife it’s transparent so it doesn’t photograph that well. Here’s a video of the lexan. It’s just supposed to channel liquid that, I guess, gets thrown at the screen and seeps inside. Judging from the gross state of my old one, and the rust that had accumulate on the sides of the cab inside, id say it worked once or twice.

@kuze I don’t notice any, but maybe you can judge, here’s a video (below the lexan video)

https://imgur.com/a/76Mv1Vn

oh @ekorz I was responding to @BlinG about flickering/monitor interference - doing an LED setup like you did wouldn't cause anything like that to my knowledge.

by the way, excellent work on the restoration! your e2 has a new lease on life!!

makes me tempted to go a similar route

 

[8bitforlife]

@8bitforlife it’s transparent so it doesn’t photograph that well. Here’s a video of the lexan. It’s just supposed to channel liquid that, I guess, gets thrown at the screen and seeps inside. Judging from the gross state of my old one, and the rust that had accumulate on the sides of the cab inside, id say it worked once or twice.

@kuze I don’t notice any, but maybe you can judge, here’s a video (below the lexan video)

https://imgur.com/a/76Mv1Vn

oh that's perfect can see it perfectly nice work. Did you use a hair dryer to heat the area to bend it?

 

[kuze]

Quick question, should the E2 have a ground pin on the AC power cord?

What's the best way to ensure these are properly grounded?

 

[BlinG]

I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.

What sort of screen interference did you get with the fluorescent?

it happens mainly at start up when the bulb is turning on. Any flickering in the bulb causes the monitor to flicker as well and make small static noises, which I didn’t like the sound of at all. Replacing with an LED bulb removes any interference.

 

[rewrite]

I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.

What sort of screen interference did you get with the fluorescent?

it happens mainly at start up when the bulb is turning on. Any flickering in the bulb causes the monitor to flicker as well and make small static noises, which I didn’t like the sound of at all. Replacing with an LED bulb removes any interference.

Running a step-down would also solve this.

 

[BlinG]

I have you tried doing the LED bulb trick by using a starter with a fuse in place? It would allow you to use original lamp housing without hacking away any of the wiring.Edit: Here's the original thread about it on arcade otaku. I have this set up in both my Blast Cities and it looks great. No more flickering and interfering with the monitor.

What sort of screen interference did you get with the fluorescent?

it happens mainly at start up when the bulb is turning on. Any flickering in the bulb causes the monitor to flicker as well and make small static noises, which I didn’t like the sound of at all. Replacing with an LED bulb removes any interference.

Running a step-down would also solve this.

This may also be true, but I feel the LED bulbs give such a cleaner shine to the blast city marquees. They produce less heat as well, and in Phoenix AZ that's always a plus...

 

[ekorz]

@8bitforlife that would help. Or a heat gun probably is better. I just did it by hand, it’s not perfect but you never see this unless you’re rotating the monitor.

 

[kuze]

Looks like Yaton posted up some MS9-29T chassis on eBay if anyone needs one for their E2.

 

[Hatsune Mike]

FWIW I do not think the 29T has anything special about it for the auto degaussing in the E2. I am almost positive it is achieved by just having the E2 wiring harness “always press” the degaussing switch.

 

[8bitforlife]

maybe its the length of the wires to the neckboard or something. which can be just modded by someone themselves

 

[Hatsune Mike]

Other MS9-29* models have long enough wires, I don't think the length of the connection changed at all. Just make sure the wires aren't caught on the metal frame during a rotation