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Anyone here able to get their Playstation 4, Brook UFB, P-ras 3 cabinet, and @Lemony Vengeance harness working together? I'm having issued and I'm certain there's a configuration or setting I'm getting wrong.

The Pras-3 cab is working. Windows 10 recognizes the Sega IO in the backmof the cab, all the stick directions and buttons are registering in the Windows USB controller setup application, and the controls work as expected with my controller configuration in Steam. However, when I plug the new harness into the control panel, I encounter issues. Now, only a few buttons are registering in the Windows USB controller setup application.

The Brook UFB is working. When it's connected in a fight stick setup, the stick and all the buttons work on the Playstation 4. However, when I install the Brook UFB to the the harness installed on the P-ras 3 cab, issues crop up. The Home button, X button (1K), and O button (2K) work as expected. I can get the PS4 to recognize the setup as a controller. However, the stick directions are not registering, so I can't navigate the PS4 UI. The other buttons don't appear to work either.

I'll try a few more things to troubleshoot:
Un-plug then re-plug connectors.
Test with the Sega IO board in the back of the cab powered off.
Test continuity on the wiring harness.

Let me know if you have any suggestions.

I'll attach a photo or two shortly.
Here's a snapshot of the setup:
D5AB3A36-A79A-4A02-8B81-E9B1BCA5850D.jpeg
 
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I had a similar issue with a Brooks to Vewlix harness that I made myself (not a Lemony harness). If both the Brooks and Vewlix IO were connected at the same time, I got symptoms like yours and I discovered I could only have one or the other connected at a time.

Not sure what caused it, but swapping connections is easy enough for me at least.

My adapter was from panel to both Brooks and the IO via splitting the connection, I'm not sure if yours is similar or not.
 
I have a Blast City that I connected an XBOX 360 too using one of Lemony's harness. The Brook board I am using is the Brook XB. The harness splits to connect to both the Blast and the Brook Board. Up, Left, Right work. Down and the rest of the buttons don't. Once in a while the Start button works. I ordered another Brook board in case. I see nothing wrong with the wiring. If anyone can chime in, would appreciate it.
 
Continuity seems fine for my P-ras 3 harness adapter. I tested continuity between the control panel's connector for the Sanwa stick and the Up/Down/Left/Right connections on the harness 20-pin connector for the Brook UFB. Continuity beeps loud and clear on my multimeter. The conflict is likely somewhere with the cab, probably the IO board. I'll take your advice @Mirkvid and test further with the Sega IO board disconnected. Stay tuned...

Update:
I did more continuity checks, this time from the buttons to the 20-pin. Everything checks out. The wires are connecting. I also tried unplugging the Sega IO board and it still didn't work correctly. I'm left scratching my head for now. I'm betting the solution is something obvious and simple. I'll take a look with fresh eyes later.
 
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Blast City Internal power adapter - $20.00

Is it possible to make something similar for a Konami Windy 2?
 
Im running into the same thing with the vewlix to brooks adaptor. I was running it on a ps4 and after ra while nothing worked. none of the directionals work and none of the buttons work, but if I unplug it it would say "controller disconnected" I've tried everything, different fusion brook board, and I even thought it was a usb hub issue. I don't know what's going on. Im gonna try to unplug my jvs IO power and see if that helps?

any insight here would be awesome
 
I made my own Vewlix to Brooks adapter and in order to use consoles I need to unplug it from the Vewlix side and power up the cab before turning on a console. To play arcade games I have to plug in the I/o and unplug the Brooks connector. Not sure why, but if I don't follow those steps most of the buttons don't work.
 
meybarra said:
Continuity seems fine for my P-ras 3 harness adapter. I tested continuity between the control panel's connector for the Sanwa stick and the Up/Down/Left/Right connections on the harness 20-pin connector for the Brook UFB. Continuity beeps loud and clear on my multimeter. The conflict is likely somewhere with the cab, probably the IO board. I'll take your advice @Mirkvid and test further with the Sega IO board disconnected. Stay tuned...

Update:
I did more continuity checks, this time from the buttons to the 20-pin. Everything checks out. The wires are connecting. I also tried unplugging the Sega IO board and it still didn't work correctly. I'm left scratching my head for now. I'm betting the solution is something obvious and simple. I'll take a look with fresh eyes later.
Click to expand...
When you say you unplugged the Sega IO board do you mean power to it, or the controls wiring harness?
 
notsonic said:
When you say you unplugged the Sega IO board do you mean power to it, or the controls wiring harness?
Click to expand...

Both, the IO board power connector and the CP wiring. I've experimented with various combinations, plugged or unplugged.

6FB63F0A-489B-41E6-9BDE-36C1467153E2.jpeg
50610FF5-A2F1-4556-B994-F1ED2E7A15CC.jpeg
 
That's really strange. With all of those connections to the IO disconnected, check for continuity between each of the pins of the 20 pin brook connector. This would be pretty tedious, so you could maybe limit it just to checking for unexpected connections to ground.
 
Take a look at the slight pinout difference between the P-ras 3 cab's wiring and my Brook harness. One of the black wires (ground?) is offset by one position. I'll try to move this on the Brook harness and see what happens. Wish me luck.

A60452AB-B209-46CC-B7F3-A2BD87290F81.jpeg
 
Good news! The modification to the P-ras 3 Brook harness was successful. In this case the cab was powered off, Sega IO unpowered. I did a quick test with my PS4 and all the controls work, buttons and stick.

8AD36AF7-8E4E-470F-A2F4-1117FCB4DF27.jpeg
5AFE8A17-AB2A-44A2-B985-1791848DE9EC.jpeg

These photos show an original harness next to one I modified. Notice the black wire offset.

I'll button things up and do more tests with the cab powered on. Hopefully this resolves my PC control issues with the harness installed.
 
CHAOS0187 said:
I have a Blast City that I connected an XBOX 360 too using one of Lemony's harness. The Brook board I am using is the Brook XB. The harness splits to connect to both the Blast and the Brook Board. Up, Left, Right work. Down and the rest of the buttons don't. Once in a while the Start button works. I ordered another Brook board in case. I see nothing wrong with the wiring. If anyone can chime in, would appreciate it.
Click to expand...
Hmm. Everything between both harnesses are common ground, meaning that if one input is working, then all of them should work. Shoot me a PM.
 
Hey Lemony. How about a Initial D3 to Crazy Taxi wire converter?
 
notsonic said:
Are they actually different? Pinout looks the same (except maybe the coin switches) unless they're physically different.
Click to expand...
My kingdom for a coin input! The connector keys are in different places, but the Arthrimus Sega IO adapter has notches in all the right places for the ND32 connector keys. So I’m just looking for a way to get that coin input without chasing down an actual ND32 JVS IO.
 
9999 Damage said:
@Lemony Vengeance Do you take on custom jobs? I need an adapter from a 60-pin New Delta 32 JVS harness (pinout in service manual last page) to a 60-pin Sega JVS IO Rev 3 837-14572 (pinout), like the Pxlmod Taito-to-Sega JVS adapter. The ND32 already provides +5V and +12V, so I don’t think it would require any voltage conversion.
Click to expand...
shoot me a pm :D

To everyone else:

It's been a crazy few months, one fraught with personal projects, IRL family time engagements, and trying to catch up on backlogs and restocks.

I can now confidently say that my workbench has been cleared off, and that I am 100% open to work..... after this week. I'll be in the UK on vacation.

NVS4K adapters are now available on a per-request basis., due to how many different astro PSUs there are out there. I've been able to refine my approach to them and after drawing out my own wiring diagram, I can now confidently say these are ready to make with as little mental connecting the dots as possible.

Thanks everyone!
 
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