darksofter
Enthusiast
Thank you for all your response. I am working with undamned to get the next gen console sticks (ps4/xbone) running with the undamned adapter.
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SelfDeniedHoarderz
Professional
I've contacted Undamned on Shoryuken forum, he had some spare and I just got 4 of those UD-USB last week. Undamned still have more units for sells, you just need to PM him on Shoryuken forum
Thats really disappointing....I PM'd him on SRK forums long before that (over 2 weeks ago) and he said he had none. I'll try again...
I was one of the lucky guys that ordered from Paradise Arcade and got scan line generators shipped instead 
Contacted undamned directly as well 2 days ago, he told me he's doing a redesign of the adapter, so we'll just have to wait I'm afraid.
Contacted undamned directly as well 2 days ago, he told me he's doing a redesign of the adapter, so we'll just have to wait I'm afraid.
so it's totally okay to connect it directly to the psu? Still a noob and don't wanna break my stuff yet.New member of the family!
Still working on my own supergun/consolization project, but HAS will do nicely for now:
Really wish my cable would come already
@zero238 Well, where else are you going to connect it to...? If you find some way to get power out of thin air let me know 
That PSU itself is admittedly a cheap one, so I will run a load on it like a high-wattage resistor or some old computer part to check the voltages before actually allowing it to run juice into the HAS and my board. But yes, this is how you're supposed to wire everything up, just make sure the correct wires are connected to the correct terminals on your PSU. You could also use an old computer PSU if you wanted.
If you wish to be prudent, you could put fuses on the DC lines going to your superguns/boards.
That PSU itself is admittedly a cheap one, so I will run a load on it like a high-wattage resistor or some old computer part to check the voltages before actually allowing it to run juice into the HAS and my board. But yes, this is how you're supposed to wire everything up, just make sure the correct wires are connected to the correct terminals on your PSU. You could also use an old computer PSU if you wanted.
If you wish to be prudent, you could put fuses on the DC lines going to your superguns/boards.
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Was gonna take the old route with ac line filter, fuses and all that stuff until I saw the pic which seemed a lot less work.@zero238 Well, where else are you going to connect it to...? If you find some way to get power out of thin air let me know
That PSU itself is admittedly a cheap one, so I will run a load on it like a high-wattage resistor or some old computer part to check the voltages before actually allowing it to run juice into the HAS and my board. But yes, this is how you're supposed to wire everything up, just make sure the correct wires are connected to the correct terminals on your PSU. You could also use an old computer PSU if you wanted.
If you wanted to be prudent, you could could fuses on your DC lines going to your superguns/boards.
what fuses would you use?@zero238 Well, where else are you going to connect it to...? If you find some way to get power out of thin air let me know
That PSU itself is admittedly a cheap one, so I will run a load on it like a high-wattage resistor or some old computer part to check the voltages before actually allowing it to run juice into the HAS and my board. But yes, this is how you're supposed to wire everything up, just make sure the correct wires are connected to the correct terminals on your PSU. You could also use an old computer PSU if you wanted.
If you wish to be prudent, you could put fuses on the DC lines going to your superguns/boards.
J
jassin000
Cheap self promotion...
I've still got two Supergun sticks for sale right now!
Working perfectly with HAS and Neo-Geo+CPS-x setups.
4th button mirroring to properly support both styles of game play (SNK/CAPCOM)
Start and coin buttons wired to start and select stick buttons (easy use for boards not supporting freeplay setting).
Classic feeling LS32 stick with bat-top joystick, closer to the AES feel LS56.
I've still got two Supergun sticks for sale right now!
Working perfectly with HAS and Neo-Geo+CPS-x setups.
4th button mirroring to properly support both styles of game play (SNK/CAPCOM)
Start and coin buttons wired to start and select stick buttons (easy use for boards not supporting freeplay setting).
Classic feeling LS32 stick with bat-top joystick, closer to the AES feel LS56.
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@stylecity
I'm not not most well versed on arcade board stuff but I'd say something like:
AC
- 3A on mains
DC
~10A on 5V (maybe less)
~1-2A on 12V
~1A on -5V
Seems about right and you should be fine with these, but if anyone more knowledgable can chime in on better values feel free.
I'm not not most well versed on arcade board stuff but I'd say something like:
AC
- 3A on mains
DC
~10A on 5V (maybe less)
~1-2A on 12V
~1A on -5V
Seems about right and you should be fine with these, but if anyone more knowledgable can chime in on better values feel free.
A quality power supply will have some built-in protection circuitry, and I'd rather rely on that. However, you definitely want a fuse on the AC input side. The correct fuse value should be listed in the PSU manual, but typically it's advised to use a 2A fuse for 220-230VAC and a 4A fuse for 110-120VAC.
http://www.meanwell.co.uk/media/import/MWP-606-spec.pdf
http://www.meanwell.co.uk/media/import/MWP-606-spec.pdf
SmokeMonster
Champion
Most Happ style supplies have the input fused internally, correct? I know my Ultimate does at least.
SmokeMonster
Champion
I posted a thread with more pictures of my slightly customized HAS, and another showing it connected to an MVS.
J
jassin000
I would really recommend you give the CVS287 a 2nd look, for the money you can't go wrong.
The only thing it's missing when compared with a JROK is S-Video, IMO no real loss since Component is where the quality is at anyway.
Also, it's half the price of a JROK, and you can order it/find it on eBay right now.
Sure I opted for the xRGB Mini and a gaming LCD for my personal setup, but if I was going back to CRTs?
Yea I'd get a 4:3 Sony SD CRT that accepted component and a CVS287, call it a day.
It's sub what a PVM/BVM can that's no lie, but considering the price of PVMs today?
I can find Sony CRT TVs for free all day long on Craigslist, CVS287 is 40$.
