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Sp33dFr34k

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Hi, I see this is the PSU recommended by @RGB, but on Meanwell site, browsing in the "Video Game Power Supply" I see the MWP-608 https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/products/104w-ac-dc-triple-output-for-video-game-3/ which is a triple output AC-DC PSU 5V, 12V and 24V. Is MWP-606 superseeded by this one? Is the 608 irrelevant having triple output?
By the way, how do you buy these PSUs? I find them only on eBay. Is this correct?



Many thanks in advance.
Best regards.

Locutus73
The triple output is not necessary, 24v is not needed. I bought it in the UK, link here:

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Black-Arcade-JAMMA-Power-Supply.html
 

Locutus73

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Hi, I see this is the PSU recommended by @RGB, but on Meanwell site, browsing in the "Video Game Power Supply" I see the MWP-608 https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/products/104w-ac-dc-triple-output-for-video-game-3/ which is a triple output AC-DC PSU 5V, 12V and 24V. Is MWP-606 superseeded by this one? Is the 608 irrelevant having triple output?By the way, how do you buy these PSUs? I find them only on eBay. Is this correct?



Many thanks in advance.
Best regards.

Locutus73
The triple output is not necessary, 24v is not needed. I bought it in the UK, link here:
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Black-Arcade-JAMMA-Power-Supply.html
Ok, thanks.
I just bought it from their eBay store.

Regards.

Locutus73
 

PascalP

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Interesting find that first link! That looks like it should work. The 2nd definitely not.
THX why if I replace the plug dont work?
Because DB15 has 1 wire for each signal/button, and no processing is involved.
a PS2 controller has a digital data signal which needs to be encoded to identify each individual button press. (also it only has 9 cables for 10+ buttons + directions)
Hence you need a real converter, not just a different plug
 

Locutus73

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Interesting find that first link! That looks like it should work. The 2nd definitely not.
THX why if I replace the plug dont work?
For the same reason why you cannot simply solder a DualShock plug in a Dreamcast and expect it to work.
Different communication protocols, not just different connectors.



Regards.

Locutus73
 

RGB

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Please reach out to the manufacturer of that adapter for more details.
 

Locutus73

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Please reach out to the manufacturer of that adapter for more details.
I don't think French will give any answer. Anyway their solutions should be based on simple Arduino libraries which shouldn't add much lag. I know "not much lag" isn't a scientific measurement.

Regards.

Locutus73
 

suverman

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thx all. So input lag with adpter?
I have all the adaptors they made but I have till now only used the Genesis one. I have not felt any lag using the DB15 to MD adapter.
 

Swirl

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Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
 

opt2not

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Perhaps @undamned could chime in, but I think if you leave the UD Decoder connected while powered, you might be able to just swap out the USB cable and it should initialize the new stick.
 

Coyo5050

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I'm looking at the markings on the HAS PCB and +5 is yellow and +12 is red, so that is how I hooked up. Just want to triple check before I turn on since the jamma connector is the reverse of those colors.
 

jassin000

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Just want to triple check before I turn on since the jamma connector is the reverse of those colors.
Yes RGB used his own color coding system on the wires.
This is actually how I killed @Derick2k 's HAS... I wired it like a PC power supply and didn't ever check the bottom of the HAS PCB to verify what I was actually connecting.

Normally I think of green as earth ground, nope in HAS green is -5v
Normally I think of yellow as +12v, nope in HAS yellow is +5v
Normally I think of red as +5v, nope in HAS red is +12v

:S :huh: X/

I really do love the RGB HAS, but if I was to criticize anything...
Yea standards exist for a reason, sure this isn't a PC power supply but using/re-using all the same colors when some of us have been working in the PC space for 20+ years wasn't a "good" move.

For reference this is what happens to a HAS when you feed +12v into the +5v input.
NB6iKME.jpg


You can see with the caps/chip removed it got so hot it actually melted the PCB a little.
VSyO2wJ.jpg


It took less than 2 seconds of juice for this damage to occur, so please double and triple check that input voltage (or you'll be replacing a burned-out HAS for your buddy like I did ;) )!
 
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RGB

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I'm looking at the markings on the HAS PCB and +5 is yellow and +12 is red, so that is how I hooked up. Just want to triple check before I turn on since the jamma connector is the reverse of those colors.
Check out the pinout of the power connector on the bottom of the HAS PCB to make sure.

@jassin000 - I saw those pics, ouch :/ I know it kind of sucks it doesn't follow ATX PSU colors, but thing is, one should read the manual and never assume. If you check the official Sega JAMMA loom it's very similar, white = GND, yellow = +5V, red = +12V. They don't wire -5V so I just randomly picked green. The colors were introduced early in the HAS production (V1), so I decided to stick with that.

23452318915_a7d87cc9cd_z.jpg
 
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jassin000

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I know it kind of sucks it doesn't follow ATX PSU colors, but thing is, one should read the manual and never assume.
100% agree, it was totally my bad.
It's even printed directly on the bottom of the HAS PCB.

I just wish you had used colors like Purple, Orange, White... Just so it could never be confused with this (Yellow, Black, Red)...
peripheralindex.jpg
 
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Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
I killed a power supply by plugging in my UD Decoder with the HAS powered on, so I wouldn't recommend it. Luckily the HAS was fine, but it was quite the newbie wake up call. =O
 
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